kmmcrafts

Couple more thoughts.. The saw can be converted to the newer style arms for the up front tension release.. though I think a bit pricey. Might not hurt to look over the parts list on their site so you have an idea of parts prices.. Larry's post made me think about that as I think most everything is available but some parts are not all that cheap for these.

I might have to leave it up to the Hegner pro's on here since I don't know a lot about them.. What I do spot is no up front tension release.. This I believe would mean it's a older saw.. I can't tell if it's a 18 or 22 inch saw by just looking at it but I feel kinda like it's the larger one. If more photos was available Hegner puts the year stamped on the I.D. tag.. zooming into the photo I can see the tag still on the saw right in front or to the side of the Bellows area is the tag. My 18 In. saw is from 2002 and has the up front tension so I guess it's probably older than that.

Honestly agree with both Ray and Bill, Here's the thing for me since I own one of the first few China made EX-21's out there.. I got mine before there was even any word of them coming back with the EX-21 so it's pretty close to the first batch of them out there.. My saw actually wasn't horrible and the biggest thing with it was actually the blade chuck was defective so I struggled to get blades installed and also stay tight. Once I put Pegas heads on it the saw was actually pretty awesome.. Of course I ran the crap out of it and in short order it needed new bearings.. replaced the whole assembly from Seyco and it's been a really good saw.. There were differences in some of the parts so it's kinda a chance to get parts to fit.. I can confirm on the EX-21 that the whole inside the saw assembly will work but the front caps are different and won't work.. can't vouch for anything on the 16" saw though.. Being mechanical I wouldn't be afraid to buy another one, however if I wasn't mechanical I wouldn't recommend one so I usually say stay away from one if you're not comfortable taking one apart and doing some repairs. There are still lots of folks badmouth talking about the type 2 Dewalts.. that happened way back around 2004-5 ish.. My 2008 saw was a awesome one.. Ray is correct, CPO is decent to deal with.. I bought quite a lot from them over the years.. A Dremmel scroll saw back in the day 2006 and when I got it the speed controller didn't work stuck on the slowest speed, LOL.. They emailed a return label and sent out a new one right away. I did have to take the old one to the nearest UPS though.

I have cut the 2 that arpop has and they've done okay with sales.. The one with the horseshoes at the bottom seems to be more popular seller for me..

Problem for me with power washers is the gas goes bad so you either have to keep it empty and just put enough gas in it to do your washing or drain it when done.. Sometimes electric is the way to go on this stuff unless you're using it daily or at least running a tank of gas every month so it's not setting for months with gas that spoils very fast these days. Most gas in our area has ethanol mixed in it which will eat the rubber lines that is used in small engines.. so leaving gas in something for any length of time isn't good on the hoses and it also corrodes aluminum terrible which most small engines carbs are made of. LOL I have a electric washer and it's always ready.. no cleaning carbs out no oil changes etc.. About to buy a cordless string trimmer.. I only run 1 tank of gas through my string trimmer every season and run it until it runs out before putting it away for winter. But having to make a special mixed gas and just general maintenance is more hassle than it's worth. I did finally buy a cordless blower to blow the grass clippings off the walkways etc and for fall leaf cleanup. IF I didn't have such a big yard I'd get a cordless mower too.. but they say they only get about 20 - 40 minutes.. takes me about 2.5 - 3 hours to mow with the walk behind.. I do sometimes use the rider mower with 60" deck but I like the walk behind just so I don't need to have a gym membership to go walk on a treadmill, LOL.. Tractor is used more for the rototiller attachment and snow plow or blower..

I have thought about the charities because then it could be written off the taxes at a more reasonable value.. My old saw was a 1993 and had that problematic motor on it.. I didn't mind selling it at a low price because who knows when / if the motor might have a problem the very next day the person buys it, LOL.. The other saw ( Ultra ) is basically still a new saw where as the old one I got needed lots of work when I got it, I used it quite a bit so it was basically paid for itself anyway..

Unfortunately used Hawks (actually Hegners too) just don't bring as much money as they should.. yet a old DeWalt that was originally only about $350 back in the day will still bring $200 - 300, LOL. The higher end saws take that person that knows what it is to know what a deal it is even though it's priced more than the new DW.. I had my old Hawk listed for a couple months at $300 and was a really clean nice working saw.. I let it go for $200.. I have been thinking about selling my old Ultra 226VS.. It is like brand new even though it's a 1998 saw it was still new in a seal box when I got it in 2016. I put a hour meter on my stuff and it just turned 100 hours on it.. I'm doubtful I can even get the $400 I paid for it.. at least very quickly.. Being the condition it is in and I don't "need" to sell it I'll likely not let it go for less than that $400 price.. so likely to not sell it, LOL.. I should be able to break even on the Hegner when / if I decide to sell it since it was given to me. I don't think most people can tell a difference in cut between those saws for the majority of cutting.. I notice it most on if I was cutting some very thin stock and also a little noticeable on thick stock. Thin stock more so because I can certainly feel the EX type saws being more aggressive even tuned to it's best less aggressive point possible it isn't as nice to use on that thin stock as the higher end saws.. BUT, in my case.. I'm almost always stack cutting and cutting at least 1/2" most all the time and for that, the EX saw seems slightly faster cutting and more efficient. So did you get a Pegas bandsaw then? I think if you did you'd love that for a lot of the work you do it seems like it'd be more efficient.

Yeah don't spray the table with it, LOL.. I lay out paper towels etc. on the table just in case it splatters when trying to spray the little areas that I do.. and when doing the Pegas tension lever parts I remove the thumb / set screws so I do not get it on the ends of those.. I'm sure as slick as this stuff is you'd for sure lose your blade gripping power. I do spray the thumb screw side to lube the threads to keep them working nice and smooth..

It's in liquid form but dries fairly quick to create a dry lubricating very thin coating. I think it has Teflon in it as well.. not sure but so far it's the best I've seen. Yeah I bought some graphite dry lube as that was what Bushton recommended to use on the wedge on the new saw... It's messy and honestly didn't work all that well in my opinion so I started using this stuff and love it.

I believe the Excalibur stock tensioner is supposed to be lubed with a non petroleum grease.. Pretty sure I read that somewhere and I'm also pretty sure most folks don't do it.. I have swapped out my stock system to the Pegas.. I'm not certain that the Pegas is to be greased or not, however I had a slight squeak when moving my lever after having it for a month or so.. I sprayed this stuff on the moving parts of the lever and it worked sooo much easier and smoother.. I have always just sprayed it about every month ever since and with 500 hours or so on the saw and have never had to replace those common worn / broke parts.. I use this dry lube on a whole lot of things like even my lawn mower wheels.. the mower pushes so easy it's not believable LOL.. so I use it on the cables and most anything with moving parts.. Car door hinges and latches etc.. stuff is amazing. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-9-3-oz-Premium-Silicone-Garage-Door-Lubricant-Spray-16-GDL/202532761?g_store=&source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D25T-025_031_GARAGE_AUTO-NA-Multi-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-Automotive&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D25T-025_031_GARAGE_AUTO-NA-Multi-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-Automotive-71700000113075003--&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrMKmBhCJARIsAHuEAPRgAF_NUkr6VkX4CUL-nTFZSiWthCJxpLDtxpK83if6IJd81wtTXlQaAoLHEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Can't imagine life without internet and my friends at the village.. It really wasn't that long ago either.. how'd we all get by without the internet, LOL

I'm all for books if that's what works best for you.. but everything you would want to know and many easy patterns right here on the scrollsaw village for free.. Steve Good has a lot of good info on his Blog as well as his youtube channel..I guess what I'm saying is books cost money when just doing some searching online will get all the same info and possibly more. But I realize that some folks would rather read a book than look online, and that's okay too. Most important is just have fun with it.

I use old plastic coffee can or old mayo jar to put old blades utility knife blades etc. in and when it gets full screw the top on and put it in the trash and start on a new can / jar, LOL..

I have all that has already been mentioned but to add to the list I have a pair of side cutters ( dikes ) to cut the ends of the blades off that are too long. It doesn't matter on the EX type saws but it does on the Hawk and Hegner saws.. Unfortunately Pegas blades are not all the same length, many times they have a thin pointy end on top or bottom and sometimes both ends that I need to cut off for the Hawk.. If I don't cut them off then I have to adjust my blade tension for every blade since no two "pegas" blades are the same length. I end up cutting them to the right length instead of messing constantly with my tension on the saw.

Like I've always said, those labels are made with an adhesive that is not meant to come back off.. you don't want labels falling off packages and having lost mail..They're made with different adhesive.. I would try it on some scrap wood before you have hours into a project only to ruin it trying to remove a label.. That said, I do on occasion remove labels from boxes that I might be able to reuse by heating it with a hair dryer and it peels right off a box..

I'd say it's not a bad batch of blades IF, you're only experiencing it on the Hegner and not on the King.. More like a picky saw needing a more precise tension.. in other words a nice way to say user error .. No worries though most of us have been there.. some of us twice.. ie I learned to saw on easy to use ( tensioning ) saws.. then I had to re-learn on the Hawk saws again.. I've seen on other forums, and probably even did this myself back in the day complaining how Hawk and Hegners are crap saws because I didn't know how to use it correctly.. been so bad with others that they've sold their saws to go back to a DeWalt.. LOL... It took me a good maybe year of switching back and forth from the DeWalt or Excalibur to the Hawk before it finally clicked what was finally right. I'm now thankful I am not a person to give up easily LOL.. Love these saws now.. however a EX type saw will always have a spot in my shop too as I like to use that different style cutting from time to time..

I've always been going to try the mineral spirits method. If it works then I wouldn't need to buy shelf liner.. but then would need to buy mineral spirits.. as I don't use it for anything else so that's partly why I haven't tried it, lol

Can deduct the subscription on your business taxes. No different than a magazine subscription..

I've been doing the labels now for about 10 years.. They stick better than the spray glues do as they are meant to not fall off a package.. so I still use the shelf liner. Probably the biggest improvement and time saver for me was switching from the blue tape to shelf liner.. The labels vrs spray glue isn't really a huge time saver so much as it is just less mess of the over spray of the glue.. It is nice I suppose to go straight from the printer to just peeling and sticking it on your blank. The shelf liner comes off mostly in one piece and very quick compared to peeling off those little pieces of tape. If you do both the labels and the shelf liner you just saved yourself a whole lot of time for another project.

I'm right there with you Ray.. I've been on the scroll saw sites a bit longer than you and I've met and lost contact with a lot of people over the years due to sites disappearing and the folks on them split off to other sites with different user names and or just stayed off scroll sawing sites. To me it's totally worth helping support the village to help prevent something like that from happening again. 20 years ago it was Yahoo & MSN groups and then they ( MSN and Yahoo ) closed down the groups etc.. Many of the folks went to the Magazine site however they had to upgrade their site and had many issues doing that so the site was down for a good 6 weeks or more.. and they lost all the username stuff so people had to re-join.. that site hasn't been the same since. Used to be hoppin with topics etc. The $5 a month to me is better than paying a subscription to the magazine that I also dropped because they can't seem to lay out the patterns in them in a easy user friendly way.. yeah the stories are nice to read but you can't actually interact with the people in a magazine either.. I easily could get my $5 a month value in the patterns we have here too.

I break more blades on my Hawk / Hegner saws than I do / did on any other saw... they are just very picky about tension. The reason I believe is how long those arms are compared to the 3- 4 inch arms on a King. I have the 26" Hawks and those arms must be 30" or more long.. that blade takes a lot more stress on those long arms than they do on those short arms of a King. I've said it before but I almost gave up on my learning curve of the Hawk saws.. I couldn't for the life of me get it to stop breaking blades.. they are just that picky. Now I rarely break blades unless I'm running them too dull too long.. When I got my Henger I slid right into the seat with no blade breakage.. My experience between the Hawk and Hegner is the Hegner is way more forgiving on the blades.. maybe because of the shorter arms of my 18" Hegner vrs. the long arms of the 26" Hawks. I use both FD and Pegas blades along with a few other brands.. Yes the Pegas do break easier than the others.. The sizes of the Pegas run a bit smaller too.. ( ie a #5 Pegas is like half way between a #3 and #5 of a Flying Dutchman ) Many times on the very small blades I'll run a size larger than I normally would with a FD, Olsen etc. especially with the spirals.. I normally run a 2/0 in FD, but if I use a Pegas I jump to a #1. I like the Pegas spirals but for the most part since I have a couple gross of FD I just use those no more than I use spirals these days.

They are awesome blades and last a long time, However there are no reverse teeth so they do leave the fuzzies etc. I only use them on certain thick wood applications but I know some exclusively use them.. for me they are too pricey and too much sanding for a everyday blade. I find the Pegas are just about as sharp / aggressive so I may never buy super sharps again for what I cut. I only got them to try.. they are sharp and last a while longer but not sure the price of them makes it worth it over the Pegas MGT blade. https://www.pswood.com/super-sharps-scroll-saw-blades/

AWE! cute little kitten, It very well could be the cat.. I had cats all my life but back in 2012 I almost died do to a breathing problem.. doctors couldn't figure out what was going on with me and by the time I'd get to the ER my symptoms were clearing up.. They thought I might of had some weird virus thing going on, back of my throat was red like strep or something.. maybe I was the first one with Covid .. Thankfully my wife is a RN and actually does like me sort of because without her I'd likely not be here today. Long story short through a lot of testing and whatnot since I've kind of always had "mild" allergies my wife decided to set me up with an appointment to see what I was allergic too. Turns out.. the cat was the biggest culprit to what I had going on.. Doctor prescribed a allergy med and my issues went mostly away. They told me I didn't really need to get rid of the cat but when she's gone it might be a good idea to not get another one. I love cats, my daughter took the cat with her when she moved to college so the only time I had to take my meds is if I was going to visit her.. Also as of around the age of 45ish I was never allergic to poison ivy.. played in the woods most my life and my father was a logger and I used to roam around the woods sometimes while he worked.. he was never allergic to it either.. I used to remove poison ivy for family / friends because i was never allergic.. boy that really sucks now because if I just look at it I get it ..

Very nice design and great job cutting, I made some trivets last spring and never have put them up on my online shops to move them out of my inventory, LOL As for the walnut look.. I think it looks like walnut if I zoom into the photo. I'm thinking this is one of the lighter shades of walnut and not the "dark" black walnut that many are accustom to. For those that do not know walnut has many shades of colors depending on where the board was cut from in the log.. when working at the lumber mill years ago it's not uncommon at all to see walnut that is almost white looking maybe similar to poplar.. and there is about every shade from that light color right on down to that rich dark walnut that many of us are more familiar with.

I think for the most part, I'm going to just do them all in blue like the Michigan one.