kmmcrafts

I think I've seen something about it on Instagram.. but don't remember the details. I went to their website and doesn't appear to show anything about any sales so.. not sure.. maybe check out their FB page or Instagram.. thought I seen something somewhere..

Yeah it's kind of the only down point of a Excalibur or similar style saws as there is no ( what i consider perfect ) constant blade tension as there is on some of the other saws.. Even the DeWalt has a better set up.. Not sure how Hegner system works but the hawk you adjust it at the back once for that style blade and it's good to go until you change to a different size blade. Unless of course those Pegas MGT blades can't for some reason have them all the same length.. doesn't matter on most saws but the Hawk it does.. The older EX's had a tension lever that you slide over much like the DeWalt.. then you could adjust it as needed.. Not sure why the went with the flip lever.. The new Jet has a threaded shaft that will raise / lower the upper blade chuck to get that perfect tension similar to the Hawk but at the front and once set its good until you change size of blades... Anyway as you may have now learned.. for the most part it's not an issue unless you're a person that consistently uses the real small blades.. I know you mentioned you was just giving them a try.. but I typically use the #3 on a stack of 4 BB ply 1/8" thick.. so maybe that is somewhat a partial issue too? I don't use small blades often and when i do it's usually a 2/0 in a spiral.. never have had a need for them that small in a flat blade..

I've never really done any adjusting on tension for blades down to size 2/0... but anything smaller you might have some problems.. You didn't mention what brand or type of blade, spirals tend to break easier than a flat blade. I use 2/0 FD-NS blades quit often in my excalibur without any issue, BUT, I find the Pegas brand runs a tad smaller on the number sizes so a 2/0 is kind of more like a 3/0 and I have had some breaking issues with the Pegas sample spirals I tried.. I think if I remember correctly I kind of compare the #1 Pegas to the 2/0 FD spiral.. Unfortunately this style of saws don't really have a "variable" adjustment for tension.. But that's really the only flaw I've found with these type saws.. and as has been mentioned.. clamp it with a little slack and it should work.. I mostly use my Hawk when needing to use real small blades.. because once the tension is adjusted I should be able to just run it until I change sizes again.. and need to adjust.. The EX saws if doing fretwork with these blades can be a pain to get used to how to get the tension correctly set each time you go to the next cut out spot..

Well that really sucks, I admire your knowledge of the testing of the components as I don't know a thing about electronics..and would have just thrown parts at it until something fixed it, LOL.. though that's kind of where it ended up for you anyway.. maybe there was a couple different issues that shorted the motor? My saw has been acting up for nearly a year now.. it's the speed sometimes will go wild.. I had been playing if off to the dust in the variable switch, used to blow the air gun around the area and take care of it for a while but now it doesn't seem to matter.. I'm thinking a new Pegas or something is in order but waiting for a possible holiday deal. IF this saw was a original Excalibur I'd repair it but it's not and it's been a total headache for me since day one.. Two rebuilds and only around 500 hours on it.. I have my moneys worth from it and want a new saw anyway so.. that's what I'm going to do..

Yeah, they need a washer fluid reservoir and a wiper blade...

Right, once the pattern is off who would know if it's good cut or not.. This piece has quite a big chunk around the whiskers on the left side that broke out.. I didn't bother gluing the piece back in.. One of my first more intricate cuts.. still looks okay without that piece in there..

I use both or either or one or the other, What makes the decision to use which one? Mood I suppose.. I don't typically use spirals on thick wood for my clocks etc.. not usually for ornaments either.. I do use them on thick wood or ornaments as Paul said for veining, but I do go over the veining first with a flat blade as the spiral will just follow the path of least resistance and that would be a cut already there, LOL Don't do much portrait work these days sadly so when I do get the opportunity I typically just use spirals because it's a complete change up and I get to keep my spiral skills in check.. Reason for not doing them much is most are hard to sell.. and if I didn't like eating so much I'd do more of them..

Jet is running a a sale.. They usually do their sales as a % off all Jet tools.. most of the name brand like Jet, Powermatic etc run a "brand wide" discount.. Not usually a lot either.. 10% is usually what I remember seeing so I think the deal we talked about in the PM's is about as good as it'll get.. I may be wrong.. Grizzly usually runs a sale on select items but you'd have to look on their site. ( don't think they carry Jet anyway.. but they do typically run pretty good sales.) My local lumber supplier sent me an email that Jet was running a sale as is Festool and a few other brands they sell.. I looked but didn't see what deal they're offering just yet.

I second the wood slicer blades.. Timber Wolf blades from P.S. Woods was pretty good blades too but buying those Olsen blades locally was a total mistake for me, LOL Also plan on throwing away the blade the saw comes with.. mine wouldn't even burn through.. Had to double check to see if it was on backwards..

Have you bought recently from DnD? I ask because the prices seems to be older prices.. Pegas has raised prices a couple times since I used to order from DnD and their prices seem to be old pricing.. which makes me wonder if they are really actively selling or did someone hack and copy their old site? Just seems a little fishy too me that their saws are $760 when everyone else is $948..

I also have the same Grizzly as Dan but the anniversary black color addition, I bought the riser block and resaw fence for it as well.. I think I got it in 2014 or around that time.. no problems with it at all.. I don't do much bandsawing but mainly use it to resaw as needed... so it hasn't really been used a lot.. not commercially like I use a scroll saw type use anyway, LOL

Well we all know that having one side as a workbench is a poor idea.. all the clutter finds its way to a table / bench or other flat surface to set something down.. I think it'd be better if it only had two sides rather than three.. that way one tool is always on top.. likely for me would be a most common used tool while other lesser used tools would stay on the bottom side until needed. Could mount a scroll saw on both sides then the wife could scroll on one side and me on the other.. though I suppose one would have to sit upside down.. flip a quarter to see who that would be for the week, @OCtoolguy back in the early 90's my friend had a late 70's mustang that he was trying to sell.. he paid for a add in the local paper ( back before computer ads etc ).. he was asking $2 - 300 anyway not one single hit on it.. ran a couple more ads for a few more weeks.. a co-worker told him to ask $700 for it and he'd get more interest.. at $200 people thought it probably didn't run or ?.. anyway the day the paper come out at the $700 price the phone was blowing up and he sold it within a couple hours of the paper going out.. ran a couple weeks on the ad and had the phone going crazy the whole time, LOL

Welcome to the village, Sorry to hear you're having issues with the blade order.. I had the same issue about 4-5 years ago with that place. they never was real fast about getting orders out etc. but I just learned to order sooner than I needed, however the last time 4-5 years ago it was several weeks ( maybe 6-8 ) and I had to send a demanding message much like you wrote here.. 3-4 days later I got my blades and a apology letter.. saying he was going through a divorce or something and a miscommunication between the two as they both was running the business.. I caulked it up and ordered again the next time and same thing happen.. excuse this time was that he works a lot of hours at his job and the blade sales business is a secondary income that he does after work.. whatever.. dude keep up your business like this and you won't have the secondary income.. people order things that they expect to receive within a week or so.. not months.. I think you'll eventually get your blades, he was always good to me and honest about it.. just shouldn't be trying to do more than he can handle.. don't know his personal situation but he can't expect to continue with poor customer service.. IF you paid with PayPal you can file a dispute.. they will get in touch with him and make something happen.. you may get the blades and your money back, LOL

While it only has a few screws to get it apart.. It doesn't come out of the vacuum body very easy.. I'd probably just leave it if it's not broke.

Just sent Seyco an email about it, I also looked up in my bookkeeping to find my receipt of when it was purchased. ( June 29,2020 ).. Highly doubt they'll replace it as I don't even know what / if it has any kind of warranty. Looking at the lock-nut the plastic portion shows me that it had never been tighten down as no thread marks etc. on the plastic portion of the lock-nut. Hoping they'll make a good deal on a replacement vacuum at a minimum send me a replacement motor or something but being over two years I'm not expecting much..

Okay, so after removing the vac from my saw mount I noticed a bad rattle like something came apart, and it did. This is how I found it. The fan blade lock nut had came off and the blade was just sitting there. It made some weird noise before quitting. I plugged it in to see if it’d turn on but I think the motor is fried. Not sure if contacting Ray two years later would be beneficial but just my opinion that shouldn’t just fall apart like that. Also could be why I’ve always felt the suction was too weak for putting in a T for table top suction. I imagine this has been freewheeling since it was new and never really tightened down.

Was searching for the Jet scroll saw for pricing and ran across one that was sold with the rotating stand.. never seen one of these before but I thought it was neat. While I'm not necessarily cramped for space I do have 3 sanders and a grinder that I have each mounted onto a stand of its own which does take up a considerable amount of space. I think if I had this thing I could mount all of them on this one stand.. Not sure but I already have nice stands for my bigger tools like the planer etc.. and I don't see myself liking having to rotate to access the tool I need to use.. I like to just walk up the the tool and turn it on and use it.. but these sanding tools I have would be fine as I could have the main used sander set up but the once a year that I might use the other sander or grinder I could just rotate for that use. I could see this being quite handy for those with small shops.. Not cheap but practical for space saving.. Might could build something similar too I suppose.. I might grab one of these up if I find one on sale for black friday etc.. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Jet-Flip-Top-Benchtop-Machine-Stand-728200/316671718

Yeah that was me that suggested rotating the faces and mark the chuck.. I discovered that back in 2010 or so with my old Delta Press that I'm now replacing with this WEN I just bought (Hopefully anyway).. Anyway... I don't really understand why that makes a difference but it does work for some of us by rotating and finding that sweet spot balance where the mini chuck doesn't wobble..

Maybe you should ask what the runner ups are to the top commercial use saw, LOL.. I totally understand how the price can reflect a decision on those high end saws.. To be fair, I would say that the Jet, Pegas and those other saws in that category are not too far behind on quality.. and I'm assuming you're not going to be running a full fletch business using only the scroll saw.. I'd say that Jet would get you through without too much trouble if any.. Many crafters find "other tools " and hobbies along the way and don't set at a scroll saw for 8 hours a day much like I was doing.. I now have a laser and CNC and not using the scroll saw as much as I once did.. I've only seen a handful of folks talking about having to rebuild a Excalibur ( the original ones not the china ones ) or Jet, Pegas etc.. of coarse Jet and Pegas haven't been around a real long time yet.. BUT the same system as the original Excalibur.. I myself have been considering the 18" Jet.. cheapest saw out there in its league from Home Depot.. I got to snooping around and downloaded the manual for the saw and it list individual parts like bearings and bearing sleeves etc.. ALL of the other saw brands list part assemblies.. so if you have 1 bad bearing you buy a whole assembly to repair it.. not just the one bearing. It's easy to find bearings based off the bearing size and dimension.. however it's not easy to find the bearing sleeve or inserts for the EX, Pegas saws.. they want to sell you a $130+ assembly.. instead of a $10 bearing and sleeve. BRAVO to Jet for doing it this way.. Likely those bearings and sleeves are the same throughout the Pegas and other brand saws as they are all made in the same factory.. Of all the saws that I've rebuilt of this style there is only a couple bearings that really take a beating.. the rest are always like new still, but as I said it cost a couple hundred because you replace assemblies instead of just the bearing needed.. I even went to a bearing specialty shop to try to source the bearings and sleeves.. bearings they could get easily.. sleeves nope.. can't get that it must be something made in house was what I was told. Just to clarify what I said above.. Pegas and like saws also list individual parts in the manuals too... however looking up those parts you can only buy as an assembly.. unless possibly calling them directly.. Jet you can copy the part number and paste into google and it'll bring up the bearing or sleeve and the price and a add to cart to purchase right there.. This is nowhere to be found for a Pegas, Excalibur, or King etc. type saws..

Saturday the wife wanted to go to her favorite store which is just a couple blocks from my lumber store.. so I dropped her off as usual and went to the lumber store. I asked about the BB ply price on 5 x 5 x 1/8 and it was $35 a sheet or 10-20 sheets for 31.. I didn't get the price for beyond the 20 sheets.. but I do usually buy 10 - 15 at a time. A couple years ago it was $12 for the 10 sheets.. Last time I bought it ( last spring I think it was ) it was around $30 for the 10 sheets. I'm going to need to get some again pretty soon but hopeful the price will go down some by then.

The Seyco kit comes with a Dust Deputy on it.. I'm not sure the system is up to "production style task" that I put it through for the last two years.. This is what I had and what burned up.. https://www.seyco.com/dv-10a-cyclonic-action-scroll-saw-dust-collector/ Dust does escape the Dust Deputy and lines the bag which doubles as the filter... I did throw a lot of work at that thing and would have to clean it out at least once a week..

They are the same, I have a Seyco vac that I bought new from Ray 2 years ago.. that's the one that fried.. and it says MetroVac right on it.. I also bought a MetroVac from eBay New Open Box and it's exactly like the Seyco one with one exception.. the back of the one from eBay just has a end cap on it and the end cap on the Seyco is about 6" long and lined with some kind of black colored foam.. I assume for sound deadening as it is quieter that the ebay model.. same model but shorter and louder. My Seyco would get loud too.. take the bag out of it and go outside and use compressed air to blow the fine caked up sawdust out of it..put back in and quiet again for a while.. Also a good idea to take that back portion off and blow the dust out of the foam now and then.. while it comes with a dust deputy and has the bag / filter.. dust still escapes all that and gets caked up around the motor and that foam muffler thing.. I suspect this to be what fried mine..

This is something I've kinda been looking at.. Tempting to get and try.. Certainly could be a market for something like this to scrollers to be able to just use their cordless drill motors in.. Not sure how accurate something like this is.. but it's have the power unlike the Dremel with plunge router set-up https://www.ebay.com/itm/165747743389?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D242365%26meid%3Dce23d0d042924f148e72f60f48fa9861%26pid%3D101506%26rk%3D8%26rkt%3D25%26sd%3D393849357129%26itm%3D165747743389%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2563228%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseWebMskuAspectsV202110NoVariantSeedNoPLX%26brand%3Dwolfcraft&_trksid=p2563228.c101506.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A165747743389ce23d0d042924f148e72f60f48fa9861|enc%3AAQAHAAABMAzdIKOcP6rVYsexH8mCu6bA2DY6ElM67JKComxjxAnyT9vOhsWu88eBePRdeUyezGJzQOV7Xuwj4hElfgg5l6tm2B6f3pGHs3PI0MARKZnFsQJ9yiF8twtjgOyxrNWBigYEbuFX9RLWUyCJs70YGPWdLj4czvis3TXprwMaNA5uyzd6AJ9CHuZNSSlz1YuIC9SiYbvuuuWs1%2FEUKjuUWeCKjV2qa0NndScXt6GmTKzK%2F3rXTObQUGBZe4PGmp8rCtHD3u6Uru8NnK%2F8FEQoq%2B1LR2v53Z5%2FvvxY5hBmh76iqS7%2BnxbY5kYySBIDOpCbjZNIcLxU24kd%2BaNQvyOGE39pOxBJmvrGffspW6dufupo4ryttBqx0gwirWNcML10od7emABSgxvOIBgqUjFkCcA%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2563228

I've always kind of wondered the same thing Paul... I've read in the pash about the shop vacs melting or catching fire yet I see a lot of folks using them, LOL. I myself used one for a couple months on my Excalibur to use on the dust port.. Worked really well.. so much so that I'm thinking I might go back to that set up but using a quiet DeWalt, Fein, Festool type quiet vac. I hated the noise from the shop vac.. To change the subject some more.. I had both my systems ( Seyco vac and Shop Vac ) set up to come on / off with the foot switch ( not both vacs at the same time but that's how I set up the shop vac and when I got the Seyco I did the same ) but I've read a couple times that could be hard on the foot switch and or scroll saw or vac.. Should one have these hooked through the foot switch or not? Seyco vac comes with the items to hook up that way and they are lower powered vacs than a large shop vac. so maybe the Seyco is safe for that but would a actual shop vac be safe to do like that? I'm actually leaning toward the Festool as it comes set up with a power outlet to come on with the machine.. Maybe Fien does as well? Interesting topic.

Will the Dremel brand tool have enough torque / power to drill through 3/4 hardwoods without running crazy RPM's? I have the cheap WEN knock off of the Dremel..That's the issue I have with those small tools is there is no power until you run 7000 rpm's and then you burn through instead of drilling through.. discolors the wood around the hole too.. Not a great choice for vein cutting.. I can see where they work well for stack cutting 2-3 pieces of 1/8" plywood etc.. but worthless drilling through 3/4" cherry or other hardwoods. Thought about the Seyco scrollers drill but I've heard similar with those.. Being production minded I consistently stack cut or consistently cut 1/2 - 3/4" thick material so the Dremel tool for me isn't what it is for others.