kmmcrafts

Sounds basically like the same issue I had with the Hawk and basic idea of what they told me to do with the uprights.. Good info incase I ever buy a Hegner.. MY OCD kicks in on having the saw tuned properly.. I think most just pull it out of the box and expect it to work great.. might happen on luck but I've never bought a saw yet that was straight out the box tuned and ready to go.. Yeah they work that way but not as efficiently and or smooth.

Yes, Denny sells the Pegas brand blades. If you used the blade I had installed and liked it it was a Pegas Modified Geometry blade.. I think that one was a #5 but may have been a #3.. That said small samples of a lot of styles and sizes is the best method to find what you like for your style cutting and your comfort level. Here is a link to his site https://www.artcraftersonline.com/

Have you contacted Hegner about this? I think if nobody here can give you suggestions on saw alignment and fixing the problem I'd contact Hegner to see what they say..

My RBI are not like this, but one of them was at one time, brought it up to the fine folks at Bushton and the rear uprights are out of alignment when this happens. You loosen all the bolts that hold the uprights from underneath the stand and turn the saw on the lowest setting.. run it for a few seconds and it should alien itself. Can't help with the Hegners because I've never owned / used one.. But I can say it's not supposed to be that way ( at least on the RBI's ) It's amazing how nice and smooth a saw actually does work when one takes time to learn and tune them..

Could be a couple things going on.. Since you're using shelf liner most times that stuff comes off pretty good so I doubt its because that it sticking too good. I have had cases where I had a dull drill bit and I was drilling too fast for the drill bit to keep up with removing the chips.. this punctures the back side of the ornament and while it may not look punctured after drilling.. but it loosens it up in the last layer of the ply.. then when you cut it loosens and chips fall out creating somewhat what you are talking about but on the back side usually.. but can also happen on the front too if you're really pushing the drill through to hard. Also pre-sanding the blanks helps a lot.. especially if the plywood is older and has been in some higher humidity at some point.. the high humidity sort of loosens the fibers of the wood.. I find sanding first helps a lot with this..

Glad you got things sorted out without having to spend money.. Is this on the little 8" Delta drill press? My bearings in mine have been noisy for a couple years.. it's probably worn enough that it may not be repairable... I've wanted to take it apart and repair / rebuild it but it lacks a few things I'd like to have on a drill press so I think I'm going to buy a new one at some point. What one I have no idea.. I've posted about them a couple times in the past and never have pulled the trigger.. Gotta say though.. I only paid $2 for this thing 13 years ago at a tractor swap meet, so I think I probably drilled enough holes to get my moneys worth from it.. I assume I could sell it as it is still working decent.. just a bit noisy bearing.. Might even be able to get my $2 back out of it if I list it on FB Marketplace, LOL Anyway, I'm glad you posted this as I learned a few things from this topic.. Oh, was also going to say.. This is weird but.. I have one of those little chuck inserts for the smaller bits.. and it also wobbles quite a lot, but I learned something about it maybe 10 years ago.. Why this happens I have no idea.. but it could be worth trying on your drill press.. Anyway, I learned that if I mount the small adapter in a certain way it smooths out the wobble big time.. so when I figured this out I took a marker and marked a line on the drill chuck and on the adapter.. If I line those to lines up I get hardly any wobble.. When I first discovered this I had it running very smooth and then went to drill a clock hole and then reinserted the adapter with the small drill still in it and it wobbled crazy.. Nothing changed in that 2 minutes other than the position that it was mounted in... so I took the adapter out turned it ( my adapter has a hex shank and probably where the issue lies ) so it clamped onto another portion of the shank.. still wobbled so did it once again and it worked great.. so that is when I made those marks.. now I look for the marks to line it up.. never had much trouble from it since then.. You might try this..

Here is something you might find useful... https://www.mikestools.com/ownersmanuals/DeltaScrollSaws/40-540.pdf Mikestools is the best place around to find obsolete parts for these old Delta saws.. I rebuilt one of these saws back in 2006.. many parts were no longer available but searching online for parts and part numbers I found Mikestools.. He was a great person to deal with.. I haven't dealt with him in about 6 years now. He had a obsolete part for my old Delta jointer that kept me from throwing it in the trash..

I'm a little confused as I've never heard of one using pinned blades on the quickset ll blade chucks.. that saw should have a blade clamp that you use a lever to clamp the blade.. Photo is of one of the quickset style clamps.. does your saw have this style? If not them I'm betting someone had changed it over to a older style clamp...

Just curious since I know very little about drill press / drill chucks.. Is there any reason not to go with a keyless chuck? Got to admit I hate messing with having a keyed chuck on my drill press.. and it seems so nice to not have that key on my cordless drill.. I'm assuming that the keyed chuck probably holds better? I think if I was to replace the chuck on my press I'll be looking at keyless unless you all think there would be an issue with it holding my forestner bits.. Though I have used it in my cordless with no slippage issues..

This one is the one Karl posted a picture of ( I think ) and it says 0 - 3/8 which yeah it only goes to a 3/8" ... that wouldn't work for me as I need to use my forestner bits for the clock holes which are ( I think ) 1/2" https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1659&category=

Took me a while to find them so I put in the search bar JT33 on the site Karl mentioned.. Not sure why but his link wouldn't work for me.. even copy and paste to google search wouldn't bring it up so I searched just the name.. Here is the results from the JT33 search.. https://littlemachineshop.com/products/search.php?tabName=Products&term=jt33

I'm not either.. the seller has seemed to skip the important description.. In the reviews I found a person saying that it measured at 24.5 inches at the lowest setting.. But that review may be for a different chair too.. LOL

Sure I make campfires out of scraps and ooops projects every summer and from those scraps come homemade smores Okay on a more serious note, yes but it has been about a year or so.. But to be quite honest.. I really like cutting the car clocks.. I have no place or use for 100 different car makes and models so.. it's fun to make new designs etc.. Some of them I've taken down off the web because I got tired of making the same one a 100 times, LOL.. If sales are slow I sometimes will make a few batches and send an alert out on social media that I have them back in stock.. they usually sell within a couple weeks..

The last few 1000 of them I bought from a recycle place on eBay.. but they went out of business I think.. I try to use recycled and earth friendly packing supplies when I can. I just bought a sample pack of some Kraft paper ones.. as I'm not super fond of the poly ones.. shipping labels don't stick real well to the poly ones.. I buy packing peanuts from Staples that are a by product of wheat I think it was.. anyway they melt once they're wet.. and I had a hard time keeping my dog from eating them. Anyway I'm looking into a place that makes / sells biodegradable cushion mailers.. I might try a sample.. Meanwhile I just bought 500 of them from this seller and they seem to be decent.. just that they're poly and I'm trying to find a better source. https://www.ebay.com/itm/373087821222?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=641873188375&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Packing orders in the nice warm house. About half done with the overnight orders in the top box. Bottom box is yesterday’s orders. Then I get to pack the boxes that contain larger items like clocks etc. So during the holidays I spend most my time packing orders or making custom / personalized requests orders. Usually turn those away the 1st of December. I have a dozen to make now so that’ll take me up to the delivery deadline. Many folks will order even though they won’t get it until after the new year. Then I spend a large part of January doing bookkeeping for tax season. Mid January- February I get to go back to production cutting and starting to restock next years sales.

Almost 11 years ago for me.. however I didn't really become active until about 7-8 years ago.. There was only two other sites that was even close to being as good as this site... One was a MSN Group and when MSN shut the groups down that family of scrolling friends kinda split up.. many migrated to the Magazine site.. and a lot of wonderful designers and others didn't get along with the rules etc. of the magazine site and lost a few more family and friendships.. Then a site called Free4AllScrollSawPatterns was developed.. Many of those lost designers and friends moved to that one.. That was my hang out for a long time, I found this place through that site from someone there. Joined up but never posted much.. just read topics etc. That site shut down.. lost a lot of those folks again.. after that I stayed behind the scenes of several sites.. and eventually felt this place was home.. Thanks to Travis and the team for keeping this place picked up and tidy.

Wow!! that's an awesome chair.. Price is a little steep but then again.. the $60-70 one I have had for years had barely any padding when new.. and after setting in it all those years you can bet that the padding is much less now, LOL.. It's really nice to have a comfortable place to sit.. especially if you do a lot of sawing.. I could see this being work the money as I doubt it has cheap padding that'll break down in less than a year, LOL Nice tall back rest etc..

I'll be interested in what you find as I need another stool as well.. I need a taller one.. Both I have are adjustable height.. but the one is at least 12 years old and the padding for the seat has been about shot for a couple years now.. as well as the adjustable height thing but on the lowest setting is perfect for the one saw.. The other one I think is about 4-5 years old and I think it was from Harbor Freight.. It's still working great but sits a tad too low for my Hawk saw.. so I use it at my Excalibur.. Edit To Add: I might just buy a cushion for mine actually since it works well at the lowest setting for my Hawk.. and it's got a backrest etc.. Love it other than the padding is about gone.

Yes, fortunately I still have a picture from the ad for the saw I just sold..

No it supposed to have a nylon washer between the rear tension knob and the wedge.. Supposed to help keep the knob from turning on it's own while sawing. IF it gets oil on it then it needs cleaned or replaced as it looses it's friction properties. https://stores.bushtonhawkstore.com/nylon-tension-washer/ I think it's probably a $.50 part at a hardware store but this link shows you what it is..

Sounds like you need a new friction ( nylon ) washer on top of the wedge shape thing at the back of the saw.. I've had 3 Hawks from the very old ones with the round clamp to the newest model.. The oldest one did need adjusting often.. BUT, once I learned about that friction washer and replaced it.. I've not had to readjust anything in the 4 years since.. My Excalibur on the other hand.. at one time I was ready to weld the adjustment rod to the nut / plate once I had it adjusted.. that thing would turn the adjustment knob one full turn every single small cutout, LOL BUT loc-tite did the trick..

I'm not sure I'm understanding the question, Are you trying to print just the letters so you can glue the letters to a sign?

Just to add another thought, Hegner has a soft start where it slowly ramps up to speed.. the older Hawks had this as well, but unfortunately the new Hawks do not.. hit the foot peddle and instant on at the speed you have it set at.. I kinda like the slower ramp up to speed option better.. but honestly I don't think any of the Excalibur or most other saws have the soft start option either.. I think Hegner has a better heavier duty motor.. But that said, I've never experienced a motor failure in any saw.. almost exclusively my issues had been bearing failures.

If I had to take a wild guess I'd say it's possibly blade tension is the culprit. I run into the same issue somewhat.. with the tension on my EX, and I see many people talk about that issue too.. even with the Pegas chucks.. and Pegas saws. I don't know if it's blade slippage or sloppy threads or? where that mechanism is in the back of the EX.. For the majority of cutting it's not an issue.. but I find it difficult to keep / maintain tension throughout a larger cut on my EX.. always kinda blamed it on the China version.. BUT.. I see many complaints of the same thing on those other brands.. Scott ( Iggy ) had a Pegas and complain of this issue so he went back to DeWalts.. I don't think it's anything to do with the screws because I can put a brand new set screw and thumb screw in and the same thing happens.. This may not be anything to do with every EX style saw.. I think one flaw with these saws is not being able to adjust the tension.. other than turning the knob at the back and getting it out of alignment in doing so. For the most part this isn't an issue for me and if I need something precise I use the Hawk.. Since you mentioned inlay I'll say I don't really like the table adjustment mechanism on the Hawks.. especially the older ones. Not sure how the Hegner is but the Hawk is a pain in the behind to precisely adjust.. I don't think there is a perfect saw for every type of cutting.. I guess that's why I have so many saws, LOL

Yeah, I also had the issues with that back knob adjusting itself while sawing.. I was so frustrated with it I was ready to set it parallels to the table and get my welder out and weld that stupid thing to the saw frame, LOL I had to cool off and stay away from that saw for a couple weeks.. then finally took it all apart and used blue loctite on the threads of that shaft.. Not had a problem with it for a long time.. BUT, that said.. I should have applied more when I had it apart for rebuild last year... in the past month or so the saw started cutting weird and not working like it should.. Finally the other day I noticed it seemed like my blades was longer than normal.. Got the tape measure out and found that the knob had turned on its own and the cutting issues etc. was because it had adjusted itself out of alignment again. Set it back and have cut a few hours on it without issue.. so at least it's not completely out of alignment just doing one small cut like it was when I first discovered it doing this.. I used to have to adjust it after each cutout it was so bad..