oldhudson

I use the same process that I use to clean router bits or any table saw blade or dado set. Here are links to two products I've used, I kinda think the CMT is a bit better. The brand I like best, I can no longer find anywhere. (that figures) I fold the blade, like when its new, and then put it in a shallow tray/bowel that holds the blade. I spray or mix the solution, let it soak for 15-20 minutes or so. Use a brush to get off the resin build up. Rinse and blow dry. The used cleaner solvent down the sink. In my experience the blades work better when clean. https://www.amazon.com/Trend-CLEAN-500-Cleaner-Clear/dp/B003OC35MQ/ref=sr_1_2?crid=C9L2J1EMIPXJ&dchild=1&keywords=saw+blade+cleaner+spray&qid=1627573901&sprefix=saw+blade+cleaner%2Caps%2C179&sr=8-2 https://www.rockler.com/router-bit-and-saw-blade-cleaning-kit

I can't help but think a picture of examples, demonstrating your definitions, would be of value here.

Nice work. It's a leash holder, correct? Hangs over the tail?

If it sounds too good to be true - it probably is.

Unfortunately when I opened the attached file I couldn't see any detail so I can't imagine how it will be broken up. But I liked Wayne's idea, make a backer that can be hung from the wall, and use spaces to elevate the scrolled work. I did something similar with a sign project. Good luck.

Here's a link to the Wixey digital angle gauge. https://www.amazon.com/Wixey-WR300-Type-Digital-Backlight/dp/B00T6YZ0K6/ref=sr_1_3?crid=78J10XSPNH82&dchild=1&keywords=wixey+digital+angle+gauge&qid=1621609852&sprefix=wixe%2Caps%2C209&sr=8-3 I've had one for about 10 years. Works great. As Les noted it has a magnetic base. No problem for an aluminum table. My table saw table is aluminum, no issues. One thing of note, at least in mine. For some reason it always seems to draw current, even when off. So it's best to remove the battery when not in use. I've never used it on a scroll saw, I use a small tri square. Nothing I do on a scroll saw needs any more accuracy than that.

I don't spray my scroll saw projects, generally, but often spray larger projects. I have an HVLP. It's Earlex brand I picked up at Rockler. A nice, fairly priced, and very complete set. It even has a viscosity cup. Comes with a DVD on how to use it. I don't think I'd want to set it up to do scroll work, unless I was do several pieces at the same time. It's hard to beat a finish that's been sprayed on.

What Wayne described.... Rockler has plans for a tilting base to be added to a drill press. https://www.rockler.com/tilting-table-for-the-drill-press-plan Here's a simple drill guide that might be what you need https://www.amazon.com/Muzata-Installation-Horizontal-Drilling-Template/dp/B083Q8K2N5 You didn't say what size holes you needed. But when I work on tables and make those corner blocks that go between aprons and hold the legs I find forstner bits work much better drilling angled holes than your other types of bits.

Love the pattern. Well executed and a stand-out frame.

They looks super.

I got a new Shopsmith in 1982 and while I have many of the add-ons I never got the scroll saw. I'm pretty sure if you post your questions on the Shopsmith Forum you'll get the info you need. Here's the link: https://forum.shopsmith.com/ Pricing varies a lot depending on the area and condition. If it's in good shape I'd say somewhere between $500-750. It's just my two cents, and know that I love my SS, but I'd look elsewhere if scroll sawing is your interest.

I vote for a pull toy.

I've made two of them. The first one keeps excellent time, was inexpensive, pretty easy to build. It was so cool to take some ply wood, a couple lengths of brass rod, copper pipe and fish line and in the end have a working clock. Here's the link to the thread with all the info. The second one I made last year was more involved and more expensive to make. I had to purchased more brass stock and a set of drill bits. The clock runs fine and its nice that it doesn't need to be wound. But this one doesn't keep good time. Sometime soon I spend some time fiddling with it and see if I can't get it working correctly.... still watching this is great.... its like kinetic sculpture. People often ask if it's boring cutting gears. Wasn't for me. Have beer and put on some tunes and I never work long hours on a project. I'm retired its not a job. I'm sure there's info in the threads about plans. Let me know by PM if you have questions. I'm sure I'll start another one soon. Good luck

I've owned the Incra Precision T-Rule for a couple of years and I really like it when laying out cuts, especially when the tolerances are tight. I used it last week to layout mortises in a coffee table. Each end has five slats that mortise to the aprons and stretchers. (1 5/8 slats with 3/8 gap between each) My only issue with it has been my old eyes have difficulty with the very small markings. Do I need something this accurate. I certainly don't NEED it. But as the years go by I make an effort to make my work better, in some way, all the time. If I cut a mortise 1/32 too large the slat will rattle around, unless I glue it. And if it's 1/32 undersize I'll be trying to pair off a 1/32 for the tenon on the slat. And when it's all done will the customer know, not a chance. But I'll know and that's whats important. I bought a new set of extra strong 'cheaters' and that has helped. I also have their miter gauge for about 10 years, like it a lot. I always make an attempt to purchase American when I can. If I can't I'll try to purchase for any country but China.

Your level of energy amazes me. Thanks for all you do making this one of the best 'communities' focused on woodworking skills on the internet.

Thanks for taking time to prepare and post the video. . I always enjoy seeing other's shops. Invariably I'll see something of interest. I'm sure there' even a special thread.

Nice work Frank.

So sorry about you dog. I lost my lab a year ago and I still miss him every day. I walked to the lake today, like we used to every day, my heart just sinks missing his company. I like to use narrower pieces. I'm making an end table now. Finished top with be 18 x 24. My stock is wide enough that I could do the 18 in two pieces, no way. I'll probably use 5 or 6 pcs. Ah but then comes the next question should you alter the grain up and down? Certainly many people will tell you that, but I have these wonderful wide boards it would be very nice to match the grain and make it appear to be made from two boards. But most important is to joint the edges so the glue-up is strong. I generally will only glue-up two boards (hey I'm retired) at a time so I can control cupping at the joint with a couple of cauls. Again you have my sympathy for your loss.

The frame on the nurses has a very rich look, well done.

Very creative Les!! It has a very casual/rustic look, so in some applications its very good and in others I don't think it will work well. Are the corners simply glued together or did you add some mechanical fastener? And how thick is it?

As far as I know there's no difference between palm and trim routers. Think of a compact router, 1/4" col-let. I have a De Walt DWP611PK. I've had this about 4 years and I love it. I'll be making a table for it this winter. But I've heard lots of good things about the Bosch too. And I'm sure there are others, that are very good. All of them can do light round overs, ogees, coves and beading profiles. If I were buying one today I'd, at least consider, a cordless model....especially if I could get one that uses the same style batteries and my drill and impact driver.

I think the first thing to try is 3M spray adhesive. I'd spray both the disc and wheel, let them set up kinda like contact cement - then put them together. This is just a suggestion. I haven't used this method and can't say for sure it will work.

There was an extensive discussion regarding downdraft tables recently. Here's the link

I don't know about that boat business. I wait till winter to fish. Drive out to my favorite spot, cut a hole in the ice, drop a line in, sit down and open my flask.

I think the top of the list would be dust collection, but perhaps you just didn't mention that. Just as I'm sure there are other tools that you have but didn't mention. Band saws and pretty handy and I love my compact router. I find myself going to that before picking up the big router. You didn't mention a lath. I think a router lift is a pretty big investment unless you use it quite a bit, but that said there are lots of videos of people building there own lifts. I don't have one because my router table gets collapsed and hung on the wall when not in use. I need the floor space. And I haven't made mortise and tenon joints since I purchased my DowelMax. And while were on the subject of joinery, do you have a pocket screw system? Another item you didn't mention, that you may have, is a good work bench. On the finishing side, while I haven't used it a lot, when I've used it my HLVP sprayer has been great. But maybe on this forum you'd maybe think about an air brush? Finally, don't for get good lighting. I replaced my florescent bulbs with LED's... really helps my old eyes.