oldhudson

The brand I've used for a couple years is a Surebonder. Not sure it's better or worse than all the others.

You do a great job of matching the stock choice with the pattern. Super job.

Knowing that the output size can vary from 100%, if it matters I have the operator place a small metal ruler on the edge. Then you can compare the actual output size to your ruler.

I've used FedEx, formerly Kinkos. They have a huge copier. I don't really know the size but it must a least a meter wide and any length. No idea about the cost, but you can call a local "quick print" shop. I'm sure they work off a price list.

Very cleaver and neatly done, but I think I'd be bumping into it with my wrists changing blades.

Feels like spring. Super work.

Trying new techniques, IMHO, is always worthwhile and interesting. Well done.

I like it, and as always, you do great work. Are you planning on adding a finish?

While spending Christmas in the hospital would bring no joy, but it sounds like you've turned a corner and are headed in the right direction. Thumbs up!

Great job, I'm really impressed with the glitter paint. My attempts with that have fallen short. Just couldn't seem to get coverage. Did you prime before painting?

Nearly all scrollers pull the blade guard off when they set up their saws, you might want to leave yours in place. If you were to purchase a used scroll saw the guard will likely be in a bin.

I see a couple of options. One is the 0000 steel wool and wax. Johnson's Paste Wax is a good clear paste wax, that's readily available (I use it on my Shopsmith all the time). Cut off enough to make a pad and dip it into the wax and apply gently. Let dry a few minutes and then buff lightly with a cotton rag. Or spray a couple of light coats of a satin lacquer. When finishing I always urge others to test before trying anything on the actual item.

Just curious, do you mix your own or do use Zinnser or.....

Nice finish!

Ya know Ray, anonymity is one of the reasons folks join groups on the internet. And everyone has there own personal limits about sharing info. It's okay.

If I'm staining wood. I sand it as needed and then, nearly always, seal it with a couple of light coat of shellac. It dries in under an hour. Then give the shellac a light sanding. I've been tempted to try Minwax Sanding Sealer or the Conditioner but haven't been able to get my wallet open.

I made these bookmarks for the guys I play chess with each Wednesday. Who hasn't been caught in a Knight fork? 1/32" BBPW. Finished with a spit coat of shellac, gel stained, two more coats of shellac.

Best wishes to all the SSV members and especially to Admin for all their work. Does anyone have a couple of chairs I can borrow this afternoon, it looks like we're short?

Excellent work on an adult puzzle.

I'd be interested but only for friends and family, as gifts. While I do some woodworking for money, none of it is scroll work. I think this would be of more value for those who use craft fair events to earn some money. Twenty dollars is pocket change in 2019 but for this old fart is still seems like a lot of money. I know precious little about Inkscape but after watching the video this looks very easy. I hope this is successful for you.

Looks a lot nicer than the one I made. Another possible assist may be to put a light coat of anti-size gel on the threads. That seemed to help my issue.

I don't think this is going to help much....but I'd try a deep red or a dark brown.

You should post a link to this device. I know I have some issues and I'd wager there are others who are unhappy with their current light/magnifier. Maybe one of my kids will get me one for Christmas? Thanks for your review.

I consider the router only second to the table saw in it's usefulness in the shop. (I used it this week to make a beading element on a shadow box project.) I had a shop built router table in the 80's. I got plans from Woodsmith Magazine. It had a Craftsman router with 1.5 hp. My shop was pretty small and I made it so that it would be mounted on a B&D Workmate. Thus I could hang the table and Workmate on the wall when not in use. I purchased a Rockler router table in the late 80's and upgraded to a Kreg router table when they came out with theirs. Maybe around 2000? (I might have kept the Rockler but in an attempt to make some modifications I really screwed it up.) Anyway I kept adapting the tables to be held in the Workmate, so I can have that floor space when not in use. At the same time I purchased the Kreg table I purchased a Bosch 1617EVS. I like the Bosch router pretty much but I've had the switch go on it twice already. Here are a couple of pics. Note in the first (old) pic , my old Rockler table on the shelf. Also note, I've modified the Kreg/Bosch set-up with an auxiliary shut-off switch. There are two big disadvantages to my system. 1) You need to set it up each time and then take it apart. 2) dust collection isn't nearly as good when the unit isn't installed in a cabinet. 3) a less important issue is you need to store bits/tools somewhere else - But if you don't have the floor space - this works. One final note that B&D Workmate is one of the best tools I've ever purchased.

Very good design. I too went to that site and was pretty disappointed with the designs.