oldhudson

Maybe I need to provide more detail. After the blade broke I measured the upper arm to see if it was parallel to the table. I measured 2.75" at the motor end and nearly 3" at the blade end (about 1/4" out of parallel). The manual says, "This saw has an adjustment knob in the rear that can raise the blade mount up to 1 inch." When that knob is turned CCW the front of the upper arm (where the blade is) moves down. What I needed to move the upper arm toward parallel. When the knob is turned CW the gap becomes larger at the blade end of the saw.

I got this saw new a couple of years ago. I don’t scroll on a regular basis the way many of the members here do. But I decided I’d make another wooden gear clock and thought I should get scrolling practice in before I start. I have a butterfly pattern from one of those magazines. Anyway here’s my question/issue. The manual clearly states “Upper arm must be parallel (within 1/8”) to the table. If necessary, use the upper arm adjuster to raise or lower the arm as needed.” The upper arm adjuster is the large knob at the rear of the saw. So I broke a blade today and when I checked for parallel the upper arm was wider, near the blade, than at the rear, by the motor. I turned the knob CCW to “raise” the arm. There was movement of the upper arm and the measurement is nearly correct BUT the knob reached a point where no more adjustment could be made, it was no longer under tension. So I’m hoping someone can tell me what’s up and what to do. (Note: I have no other issues with the saw. I don’t break a lot of blades, tension always is fine, the arm easily lifts and stays up while threading a blade into the next entry hole.) I can post a picture but I thought with as many Excalibur owners as there are here it would be a waste. Thank you for taking time from raking to read about my dilemma.

The matting and frame do a brilliant job of setting off your excellent scroll work.

I'm sure this has been reviewed but I've been unable to find the thread so if purchasing a used Hegner are there any specific things to be aware of. And somewhere Travis set up a thread specifically for saw reviews and I can't find that either. (And I've lost my cheaters too.) Thanks for reading.

I agree with the others, this can easily be fixed and I doubt anyone will see it. I read somewhere, although I don't remember where, that the sign of a really good woodworker was one that could take the mistakes (that we all make) and repair them so that those who don't know about them (e.g. a crack) doesn't see them. I've try to live by that. So I say fix it and move on.

I thought I'd make some bookmarks and wondered if anyone could recommend a source for 1/32" BB plywood. TIA

Gadzooks I can't believe how long it takes a burn to heal.

It really depends on the kind of work you do and want to do. That said I'll add my 2 cents, I have all those tools. If you don't have a router and table, I'd put that ahead of the band saw, jointer (you can use a router to joint), or planer (you can certainly plane stock old school). I use a router only 2nd to the table saw. Routers are great when, among other things, for making frames. Between the planer, band saw and jointer I've listed them in the order they get the most use in my shop. But that's my and the work I do.

Excellent work, the painting is really great and what a fun pattern. I wish you'd provide some detail about the construction e.g., how the eyes were done or the type/thickness of stock.

I'm sure you know I was kidding about using the plastic milk jug as a backer. STILL I thought you might try a couple LED lights behind it. There would have to be a frame too. I understand that's a lot more work and money, but I think it would be pretty cool. Be well Kevin.

You asked about this last November. There was a pretty good thread at the time. I know I added the link to my wooden gear clock build. Here's a link to, at least a portion of the thread, when I built my wooden gear clock. It was Boyer's Genesis clock. Here's the link to the thread. I'd really like to make another that's not weight driven. I even purchased some plans but there are so many things in life that need attention. It's to hard to find a place to put a weight driven clock, at least it is in my house. I know I posted another time on this topic because I had a glue failure on the clock and a section had to be re-made. Hope this helps. http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/topic/7800-wooden-gear-clock/?hl=%2Bwooden+%2Bgear+%2Bclock

I'm always impressed with the all the projects you handle. This pattern works really well with the purpleheart. Are you going to use the empty milk carton for a backer?

Welcome Home

It's called experience. Be glad your young enough to still be learning through this time tested method:-)

Adorable

If my memory is correct there is a thread devoted to pictures of workshops. I can't seem to find it but I'll bet Admin can. You may want to just look through them, I remember lots of posts there. It's a great way to pic up ideas and you can always PM someone if you have a question about their space, layout or equipment. I've had a shop since 1979. I find that they are similar to 'living organisms'. They keep evolving with new equipment, new types of woodworking projects and changes in you skills and abilities.

Nice project. I think the cedar works really well with the the Southwestern motif.

Based on my limited experience with padauk (I made a couple of end tables with that wood) and purchased finish with a UV blocker. Today they look like Brazilian rosewood. Nice but not what I was looking for. Live and learn.

Excellent work. I know padauk can turn very dark, did you treat it with anything to minimize that effect?

While that's true it's difficult at best to try a variety of lights, especially if you buy on-line. Even if you purchase one at a craft store it's unlikely they will be on display to try out. So going by the experience of others is valuable. I don't think I've ever seen a comparative review in any of the woodworking mags I subscribe to?

Super nice job.

I have some stock on hand and it serves for many projects, but I always find buying something I don't have. Recently my daughter asked that I make pull-out shelfs for her 50's kitchen. She asked for melamine, so that meant another purchase. I picked up 2 sheets of 5/8" - 49" x 97" (barely fit in my mini van). Here are some pics of my wood storage. Some outside in an unheated garage and some in the shop. I have pw from 1/8 to 3/4. Mdf I have 1/4 - 3/4. I keep some of all of these: walnut, cherry, red and white oak, doug fir, yellow pine, maple and poplar.

Looks great. A glass backer opens up another path for the creative mind.

Excellent, a super job. I've not seen that treatment before! Much better now that I see the whole project.

I love the tops but ....tell us about the body.