oldhudson

Nice job. The kids with love it.

I think this is a reasonable idea. Put it in the living room and give it a top and it's a coffee table. Years ago I made all new cases and fronts for our kitchen. I used the family room for over two years to stage material, applying finish and assembly.

Picking up a project started by someone else is always real challenge. You did great.

I use the .25" to make templates when routing. And I too have used it for the top of a workbench. Here's a pic of the two uses. Another great sheet good. I've been kicking around the idea of using the pegboard version to provide a pattern/template of make a mft bench like all the Festool folks have.

Here's another approach to clamping picture frames. I've cobbled together these little corner brackets I made. (These brackets can size them to the type of work you do. Note the bottom surface has 80 grit sandpaper attached with double sided carpet tape, it keeps them from sliding.) I clamp these to the sides of the frame and then use a third clamp to pull the corner together. I put a small piece of wax paper under the joint so any squeeze out doesn't get on the bench. I just clamp 2 corners at a time, it gives me time to get the fit right. Those corner clamps you're using and just cast stuff, I wouldn't ever expect them to be accurate. Someone gave me a set years ago and I've only used them a couple time in 40 years.

I like that pattern and your treatment, but what is an "endor" I can't find a definition?????

A very useful tool to help with, what is arguably, the most tedious job in woodworking. Congrats.

I have two cross cut sleds, one for larger stock and one for small parts/pieces. The guides, 2 on each of the sleds are maple. Here are a couple of pics of an adjustable ripping jig for thin slices of stock. The spring has too much pressure, it needs to be smaller. The plans were from Woodsmith. I'm not sure it was worth the effort, however it's always fun to make anything in the shop.

Great job of blending the grain into the picture. Wow.

I'm glad you are able to share your creations again. Excellent work as always.

You could put a mirror on the opposite wall?

You can laugh but I use the Stanley unit John put a link to for a variety of miter jobs. I just cut miters for bead molding on a mirror project. (I hope to post some pics soon. Put the first coat of finish on this afternoon.) In particular when I'm working with small pieces of molding and baseboards and shoe molding. I use my Shopsmith for picture frames. That Japanese saw Jerry linked to looks very interesting. I don't think a 7 1/4" will save much space compared to a 10". If you have a table saw make a sled to cut your picture frame miters.

Nice job. Practical with contemporary style. Is it unfinished? I've made three lamps and have really enjoyed making them.

I made and use one for my band saw. Conceptually, I'm fairly certain it would work on a scroll saw as well (scaled down of course). I can post a picture or two if your interested. And I think I had made one for the scroll saw, back in the early 90's. Maybe I can make my way up into the joists to see if I can find that one.... Are you looking for one that's adjustable or for a fixed size?

I shipped a flat screen TV to my mother last year. I took it to UPS. They did the all the wrapping and delivered it across country in 3 days. It wasn't cheap, but it was fast and easy. It arrived in perfect shape.

Great job on those corners. I love the addition of the splines.

I don't know that my success with the product was as good as yours but I recommend the product because I've never found anything better.

I'll jump in. This project is a grasshopper pull toy I made several years ago. It was a big hit with the kids that got it. Primarily, it was a bandsaw - drill press project. The wheels cut with a hole saw. The axles, 1/4" dowel stock. The joints for the legs, eyes and ends of the antennas were all from a craft store. The antennas themselves were electrical wire left at the garage when we purchased the house 32 years ago. The concept was from a woodworker on another site. I'm sure there will be some great items from the intarsia, segmentation folks.

You do some really creative work. Always first class!

Very nice. I'd have liked to see a picture of the back.

Timbermate is a water based grain filler. Here's link: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=timbermate+wood+filler&crid=1XZ60MSN0YN0H&sprefix=timberma%2Caps%2C162&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_8 I used it on a chair repair I did, posted pics here. There are a number of YouTube videos on using it as a filler. Most are from folks who make guitars. The fact that it's water based is great. It accepts stain much better than oil based fillers.

I think mdf core plywood is really for cabinet work and not practical or intended for most scroll or fret work projects. And any plywood: mdf core, veneer core, classic core or baltic birch will have some finishing issues on the edge. Here's a practical application of mdf core plywood (see pics). The drawer fronts along with the rails and stiles are solid wood. The door panels are 1/4" mdf core plywood. I built these about 6 years ago. I think the finish of the solid and plywood are identical. And if you consider the cost and time in building the entire door from solid wood, I'd still be planing and gluing up wood. I think (and I'm pretty sure others agree) poplar is a pretty good choice for scrolling. Readily available, reasonably priced, cuts well, accepts paint or stain (with some effort) and glues well. And while oak had gotten attention in this thread I'll add my 2¢. I've used red oak on several projects and what I like least is the open grain. To get a really nice finish you must use some kind of grain filler. Years ago I used Watco and wet sanded to fill the surface grain. Now my process is to use Timbermate. Doesn't matter it's always an extra step.

Excellent!

Love the pattern and your cutting is great. The color and 'texture' of the glass go hand in hand with the pattern. It would be interesting to see it backlit.

Excellent work.