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oldhudson

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Everything posted by oldhudson

  1. oldhudson
    Great project, thanks for sharing all the details.
  2. oldhudson
    For weights I used copper plumbing pipes, easy to work with and the caps to fit the pipe are in the same aisle at your local big box store. Inside I put lead sinkers from a fishing equipment supplier. The sinkers were too large to fit in the small pipe so ended up use shot. The local hobby store had the brass for the shafts, although I'm sure you can find that stock on-line. My clock has no bearings, wood rides against brass. I did polish all the brass shafts, as noted in my initial posts of the build. But you can use lots of other materials. One Genesis clock I saw on-line used rocks.
  3. oldhudson
    I wrote quite a lot about a weight driven wooden gear clock I made, the Genesis clock. I think it was in 2013. Anyway here's a link to the thread. My clock is in the shop and has run perfectly since it was made. Making another, that requires less room is high on my list. Feel free to PM me if you have questions. http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/topic/7800-wooden-gear-clock/?hl=%2Bwooden+%2Bgear+%2Bclock
  4. oldhudson
    Creative, original and well executed. But with that spiral binding I think it will be difficult to add new recipes as the years go by, still you can always may volume 2.
  5. oldhudson
    Great idea, absolutely worth saving!
  6. oldhudson
    Very good, the live edge stands really work. What did you use for your "snow"?
  7. oldhudson
    Looks very nice. I generally drill large hole for clocks before the scroll work. It seems easier to position to the fence and clamp when it's solid. Sometimes the bit wants to grab the stock and pull it. Just my 2 cents.
  8. oldhudson
    Looks like a first class installation. Shop projects are the best.
  9. oldhudson
    Very nice work
  10. oldhudson
    Wow - all with a scroll saw!!!
  11. oldhudson
    My philosophy is when possible paint or finish before assembly. I often mask areas of projects before finishing and think it's the easiest, I hate runs and sags. If you go back to the original thread the blue, pink and yellow were all sprayed before assembly and of course the numbers had to be sprayed before assembly. For glue on this type of project I've been using WELDBOND. (not to be confused with Weldwood) It's kinda hard to find and I got my last bottle at Ace. I couldn't find it at the big box stores.
  12. oldhudson
    Great tip!
  13. oldhudson
    That came out great. It would be really nice if you'd give some details about the build.
  14. oldhudson
    The grain really accentuates the shape. Well done.
  15. oldhudson
    I cut acrylic at the table saw. I use a cross cut blade and work slowly. Some thin stock can slide under the fence on the table saw so I use an auxiliary pw fence that is flush to the table saw top. I've never cut curves but I'd use a either the scroll saw or a jig saw and use blades with a high tooth count. Always leave the material that covers the glass in place until you are done working with it. For holes, the drill press and slow speeds. Cleaning up the 'dust' is no fun. Static electricity builds up and it sticks to everything. Have fun.
  16. oldhudson
    I don't know why that happens but it's the reason I decided I'd make a section of my shop a 'finishing' area. Wind, dust, seeds, cold, rain - I finish inside.
  17. oldhudson
    Looks like a fine replacement for your OEM blade. There are so many to choose from, even within a brand, and there seems to be no place for definitive and authoritative information. But the reviews look good.
  18. oldhudson
    I've been very happy with my Freud blades. (I also own a Woodworker II) I'm assuming you are thinking of a combination blade. Given that, I'd certainly go for their thin kerf. I think the number is LU83R010 (but check that). There's nothing like a good blade to help a table saw come to life.
  19. oldhudson
    Who have you tried for a replacement switch? I have a 10" Milwaukee that I got 2nd hand. It was so long ago CL wasn't invented yet. I've never regretted going used, saved a bundle. But if your shopping new I'd check all the on-line reviews. I pay special attention to Fine Woodworking, Wood Magazine and Popular Mechanics. There are certainly advantages to a slider but unless you get one of those that a specially articulated, don't forget all the extra room you'll need. Good luck.
  20. oldhudson
    I purchased my first Dremel around 1968 and have had one in the shop ever since. And I agree it's not always easy to hold unless you have large hands. Thanks to members here I have even more uses for it.
  21. oldhudson
    I use paint and think it's fine. I personally think it can help pw projects where the wood surface isn't super nice. For scroll type projects, as suggested already, use a rattle can and spray. But you can brush on paint successfully. Mix thoroughly and thin as needed. I'll add up to 10% solvent in thinning.
  22. oldhudson
    I have a newer EX21 with a factory stand and I've been disappointed. Previously I had a Delta that I bolted to the top of a work bench and I loved that. Mine new stand has wheels, which are a necessity because, when no in use, I store i in another room. IMHO I think the factory stand, when on wheels, has too much vibration. The last couple of projects I lifted it up and put it on jack stands. Less vibration but a PITA. I wish the height were adjustable. Some day I'll try making a stand. If I had a smaller saw I think I could put it back on the bench? You can certainly make arguments for either approach. I doubt if there is a right answer. It's just personal preference. It's why the Crayola boxes come with more than one color.
  23. oldhudson
    I've always used Delta Creamcoat acrylic paints. I must get them from Joanne's or Michael's. They are very thick. Have a long shelf life if sealed correctly. Thin easily and clean up with with tap water (although I use distilled water when thining). They comes in a gazillion colors. I get them in 2oz soft plastic bottles, I can squeeze out a few drops or remove the cover and get a larger volume. Finally, my bottles are labeled, Made in the USA.
  24. oldhudson
    No inlay. That's 1/8" pw sitting on 3/4" walnut.
  25. oldhudson
    Here was my first scroll saw project. The pattern/plan was from a wood working magazine, but I don't remember which one (old age). Nor can I remember the designers name. I was happy with it at the time and my mother still has it up in her place. I'm guessing, but this must have been done about 1992 or 1993.
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