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oldhudson

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Everything posted by oldhudson

  1. oldhudson
    Rare earth magnets sure have found a place in a lot of woodworking shops. Putting the hose right next to the down stroke of the blade should be very effective.
  2. oldhudson
    I like how you have it positioned to cut from a single piece of stock and how you integrated the live edge. That's the cleanest shop apron I've ever seen, maybe it's the inside. Anyway, nice job.
  3. oldhudson
    John is absolutely correct, I was thinking about Kevin's earlier thread. My bad.
  4. oldhudson
    This video shows edge routing stock with a router table. I suppose if you have to purchase a router and router table it might be less expensive to purchase a new jointer?
  5. oldhudson
    The video demonstrates using a router to plane stock not edge joint.
  6. oldhudson
    I don't know the unit, but I'd try replacing the brushes first. I see quite a few used Craftsman units on CL. If you go with some sort of 'sander' don't forget to figure in the cost of replacement sanding belts. Finally, I've never done it but some folks joint on a router table. Good luck.
  7. oldhudson
    When my computer died last year, just for the hell of it, I took it to Best Buy and let the Geek Squad work on it. Got it back in 3 days and it works fine, but stuff that wasn't backed-up gone forever.
  8. oldhudson
    In posts recently mdf has been criticized as being 'dangerous' because it contains formaldehyde. Yes it does but so does hardwood plywood. I've never read any article on the matter that is both definitive and authoritative. I find mdf a dimensionaly stable material, cost effective and it paints up very nice. I'm not saying everyone should use it but it seems to me to be getting an excessively bad rap. Yes it is dusty so proper precautions are in order, but the should be anyway.
  9. oldhudson
    We all make mistakes. It's how we improve our craft.
  10. oldhudson
    I certainly appreciate everyone's help on this. I really have issues reaching a decision with woodworking. But I finally moved on. In the end I left the scrolled stuff unfinished. And the frame as you can see it semi-gloss black. The size ended up at 8" x 10" because I had some glass here that was that size. (Sometimes I'm just cheap.) The stock (recycled from a broken case) for the frame has a nice beaded detail on the outside edge. I really like that look but the painted frame doesn't do much for the profile. I never tried an ellipse, but I had a round mirror I'd made - I took the glass out and put that on piece - didn't care for it. Thanks again for your input.
  11. oldhudson
    You sure know how to add bling to a project!
  12. oldhudson
    Reliability is always a top factor when I make an equipment purchase. Congrats on your new saw.
  13. oldhudson
    Wow. I don't know what I should be more impressed with? The size - it's larger than the lot my house sits on. The wealth of equipment - I counted 3 band saws THREE. The cleanliness - my goodness do you have paid staff that comes in and cleans the shop every night? Beyond belief, maybe all the pics are "photoshopped"
  14. oldhudson
    Wow what a sharp eye you have.
  15. oldhudson
    That looks like a serious lath. And look at all that cabinet space!
  16. oldhudson
    Enjoy, but pace yourself.
  17. oldhudson
    I've had a Porter Cable for about a decade and it's very good. It uses velcro disks. They are 5 hole and easy to source. It's variable speed. A couple of years ago the velcro base de-laminated but it was easy to get a replacement from the PC and install. The dust collection filter it quite good or you can hook it up to a shop vac. I also have a Makita palm sander. I don't like it nearly as well. The sand paper needs to be cut from standard size sheets. Then punched for dust collection. It's single speed. And the dust collector filter is just so-so. And while this has nothing to do with your question, I do lots of hand sanding. For the face/back, the kind of sanding you'd do with a ros, I use spray adhesive to tack sandpaper down to a large piece of mdf (usually 3 different grits) and slide the scrolled stock back and forth a few times on each grit.
  18. oldhudson
    When I can, I like to buy stuff locally. It keeps people in the area employed and the sales tax goes to community roads, schools and other important services. I understand not everyone lives in a metropolitan area.
  19. oldhudson
    I I checked pricing of 1/4" mdf 4' x 8' at $19 or 60¢/ft. The 1/4" Baltic Birch 5' x 5' at $25 or $1.00/ft. So if your 'doing the math' mdf is significantly more cost effective. These prices are from a local store.
  20. oldhudson
    I really prefer the circle. It should be pretty straight forward to make a circle cutting jig for use on the scroll saw. I guess it depends on the radius of the cut and the size of the table. I pretty sure years ago I made Christmas ornaments and made a circle cutting jig. I can't quite remember. Senior moment......
  21. oldhudson
    Why is BB pw a better choice?
  22. oldhudson
    Interesting modification of an ancient symbol. Well executed.
  23. oldhudson
    I always prime mdf before painting. I like tinted shellac, but it's spendy, and I've only seen it in gallons. Plus I use dry wall putty on the edges (I use Red Devil Vinyl) it fills that open 'grain'. Another good product to seal/prime is Zinsser, their cover - stain formula. Zinsser I'm sure you can get in a quart at any BBS.
  24. oldhudson
    BLO = boiled linseed oil and naptha is a solvet similar to, mineral spirits, however it flashes off much faster.
  25. oldhudson
    I bought my own roll of wax paper and keep it in the shop. I got in serious trouble years and years ago. I need a container to clean the table saw blade in...the coffee can and everything else I found was too small. I took Rubber Maid pie container. I still use it. It works super. BUT that was the last time I took anything out of the kitchen for the shop.
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