oldhudson

Let me throw my 2¢ in, but note that I do not have nearly the experience that many SSV members have. (And let me add this one additional thought. In any cutting hand saw, table saw, dovetail saw blah blah...it's the blade that does the cutting so don't go cheap when purchasing blades.) I use Olson blades mostly and I'd try the #2 for finer areas and #3 for the rest. Further as a someone getting started I purchase a range of sizes so they are on hand and you can quickly switch to a finer or more aggressive cut as the pattern/stock calls for.

I'll get a couple of pics tomorrow.

I have a newer Excalibur. For the first time I tried to cut a bevel, the blade is scrapping against the throat. If anyone has ideas of what I've done wrong or what's up with the saw - I can use the help. I can post pics if it will help..... Thanks for reading.

Well done!!! Trouble shooting and repair - all on the cheap. But I think you really need to have a bench. Some kind of stock between two sawhorses???

I don't see the point of a fence either, but you take a piece of straight smooth stock (for example a 1 x 2, 10" long) and drill and epoxy in 2 rare earth magnets. You couldn't use a lot of pressure on it but it would give you a working fence that's cheap, easy to build, can be added or removed in a few seconds. Of course you can clamp a wood fence too.

I love reading. Books, newspapers, and magazines - both digital and dead tree versions. I made magazine holders, but they were way more contemporary and really intended to be attached to a bathroom vanity.

I have a crown molding project to do, new trim around a fireplace. In the past I've coped the stock by hand, with a coping saw. But I thought scroll saw with spiral blades would work fine, especially because it's so easy to adjust the angle with the Excalibur. Anyhow, I just wondered if any of you had tried this. TIA

They look great. Do mix your finish shellac from flakes or some off-shelf-product?

The dragon looks great hanging out on the door casing, what fun!

Always hard to pick up a project started by someone else, but you did great.

My mother's 100th birthday in next week. I'm traveling via Amtrak to see her and made this plaque. It's a Steve Good pattern. The cutting is 1/4" BB pw. The frame is maple, from salvaged basketball court flooring. The backer was the reverse side of a backer from a purchased picture frame. Two layers of hand cut boarders to give it some depth. Rattle can painted and then lacquered. Thanks for looking.

I find tat art very inspirational for scrolling.

Nice combination of woods. I suggest you consider shaping the buckles to better fit the human form. Here's one I made years ago. Note the curvature and soft edges. I tried a couple carving an initial into the wood, but my skills never met what was in my mind.

Nice!

I'm not sure that my shop is 'shiny' but I have a LOT of light. The space is 12 x 14, lit by 4 - 48" LED units, 3 - 48" T-8's plus 3 task lights. So it's not so shiny but it is bright! I just push the saw close to the bench so 1) the fan is as close as can be and 2) the light will reach. The majority of scroll saw dust is under the table, as you'd expect. (They cut on the down-stroke and the gullets pull the dust through the stock and it falls off under the saw.) As you can see I have an Excalibur. And I know many Excalibur owners have chosen to remove the plastic at the throat because it gets in the way. I've learned to live with that in order to get better dust collection. In the picture, with this post, viewed from the back of the saw, you can see how the dust collector snakes around the saw. I've used a few different filters over the years and IMHO the 3M filtrate filters work best. But for a small fan they'll have to be cut. And once cut, without the cardboard frame, they're hard to manage. I've thought about making a wooden frame, like I have on the box fan on the window sill, but haven't gotten around to it. The filter on the small fan I have now doesn't seem to be working very well, I don't remember the brand. I picked it up because the size was better for the 12" fan.

I use 3 box fans with filters in the shop. Here's a picture. There's 20 incher with two filter on the window sill and 12 incher on the bench close to the saw.

As noted by everyone it's slow to dry, which is exactly why many people mix it with mineral spirits, usually 50/50. It speeds the drying. I wipe or brush it on and wipe off the excess almost immediately, and I keep wiping any spots that seem to be weeping oil out of the grain. I usually wait about 6-7 days, but have waited longer. It certainly doesn't require any top coat, especially if you like the oiled (Danish modern) look. But BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection by itself. I don't use BLO on scroll projects, but often on furniture and cabinetry. Experiment with it on off-cuts before to get the feel.

Excellent concept and execution!

I think working with small pieces of stock can be dangerous. If possible use larger blanks especially if you try clearing out stock with a router as you indicated you were considering. I have a special cross cut sled for working with small stock. And often turn to hand tools when working small pieces of stock. Also, I think you'd be better off thinking of glued butt joints on this type of project. Be careful and be sure to post a pic when your done.

Great work Ron. Please give us some more details about the build.

Nice work on the corgi!

Try Googling "scroll saw clubs near me". I got a hit for one in my area with that simple search. (It assumes you've given Google the ability to know where your computer is.)

Very creative.

Nice pattern and a fine job of cutting.

I don't ever want to live near an ocean of in a flood plain. Given the history of hurricanes, storm surges, spring floods, and rising sea levels....I fail to understand why anyone would. That said I hope it changes coarse and heads back to sea.