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mikesscrollsaw

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Everything posted by mikesscrollsaw

  1. Very nice job!
  2. I've seen those they look cool but being so thin I wonder how durable they really are. Sorry no plans but I'm interested to see what you come up with.
  3. That's awesome! Never seen one with a mouse trap
  4. That's impressive. I bet it'll take a while.
  5. Thanks, IF I did another one there are some things I would do different but all in all I'm happy with it. Unfortunately pictures never seem To do it justice though! I posted it on my Facebook and some asked me how much....I told em $600 + shipping thinking they'd say no way, he said cool and asked when I'd be making another. Maybe I'll have to make another for money. I hope so that would go along way to upgrade some stuff in the shop. Mike
  6. Hi Ben welcome to the site. For portraits I use a combination of coyote and photoshop. It's definitely an art form and takes a lot of practice. There are several Tutorials on the web and this site. Good luck Mike
  7. That's always a great feeling! Congrats
  8. I don't do craft shows, I've tried and while I did sell some stuff it wasn't enough to justify sitting there all weekend. I sell things now by word of mouth. It's not much but it's enough to fund my hobby. Buying blades, glue, etc.
  9. Those look awesome great job
  10. well here it is finished....I still have to make some more missles but there is one on it. it's 3 foot long, rotor diamter is 32 inches! the rotors turn, and are removable for transport. I also made the 30 mm chain gun under the nose moveable
  11. Great dog portrait, what did you quote her? I've sold similar size and difficulty portraits for $75
  12. Very cool eagle.
  13. It is 3 foot long
  14. I havnt' been on this site in a while, and my scrollsawing has slowed way down too I'm currently going back to school, getting my masters so i havn't had as much time to be in the wood shop. However for the last several month, I've been working on an original piece. I used to be in the military, and was an Apache helicopter pilot. I've always wanted a large scale model of the helicopter but from what I can tell, no one makes one. After doing the train from finescrollsaw.com, I decided to try my hand at making my own large scale helicopter. with limited time I do very little at a time. LIke I said I've been working on this for several months now and it will probably be at least several more before it's complete. however I've got some pretty good progress thus far and wanted to share. I am using a 1/72 scale plastic model of the helicopter and a dial caliper to measure and recreate in teh computer the patterns. I'm using inkscape.
  15. I'd suggest you get a few of both types and give em a try. http://www.mikesworkshop.com/blades.htm
  16. That's going to be totally up to you which type to use. I use mostly flat, and spirals when the project calls for it. I cut much straighter lines with flat. But i know people who use nothing but spirals.
  17. That's weird, mine falls all the way down. It doesnt come up unless i pull it up sounds like something is binding to keep it springy. But I've never taken one apart so I'd have no idea what would cause it
  18. Does your arm "creep" up after to put it all the way down? Just wondering why you'd need something to hold it in the down position
  19. I've noticed I keep hearing about tensioning the blade..... On the excalibur tension is set automatically and consistently using the white lever on the upper arm The knob at the back of the saw sets the full down position of the upper arm higher or lower. Thus setting the distance between the upper and lower blade clamp. It's not to be turned after the blade is clamped, yes it will adjust tension but that's not it's purpose. Install your blade in the upper clamp, push the arm all the way down, adjust the rear knob so that the blade sits proper in the lower clamp, tighten the lower clamp and then push the white plastic lever on top. That's it. Since all my blades are the same length, I never really touch the rear knob. (although i admit sometimes through vibrations the rear knob moves a little)
  20. welcome to the site, sorry i'm of no help though.....
  21. are you keeping the blade connected in teh bottom clamp, and feeding it through the bottom of the wood then clamping into the top? The Excalibur system is best used when you leave the top clamp in all the time, then feed the blade from top to bottom through the wood. I have had no issues and have gotten quite fast at attaching the blade for scrolls work. with my last scrollsaw I always disconnected the top and fed the blade from bottom to top through the wood, it took a little getting used to doing it the opposite way but after a project or two it was second nature. Hope that helps
  22. yeah I'd like to see a picture of what your talking about.....not sure why you would need to do that unless something was wrong with the saw
  23. I havn't had any really problems with blade changes. the only things i've noticed is that sometimes with a spiral blade (twisted all the way to the tip) it will sometimes try to push the blade out instead of grab, but it doesn't happpen very often. the other thing I noticed was that sometimes the arm doesnt' drop all the way so when I connect the bottom blade and push the tensioner it's still loose. I've made it a habit now to always pull down on the arm before trying to hook up the lower blade mount.
  24. I have an EX-21 for about a year now I think. Great saw. cuts very smooth. as for the adjustings, go to the scrollsawworkshop (http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/) he made a video of the adjustments needed (how to tighten the tention in the upper arm and how to turn the motor to minimize fore and aft movement of the blade). I used to have a craftsman and this was leaps and bounds better than that. I use mine everyday and it's still going strong, no issues. I love the foot pedal on/off control.
  25. Love the K box. Is that an open cut (like the fish) or is there something in there like bakers clay? I can't tell in the pic.
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