mikesscrollsaw

Thanks for the kind words. I wanted to do something hard and this definitely wasn't easy! Its going to be the centerpiece at the craft show next weekend. I doubt I'll sell it but it should draw a crowd maybe they'll buy my other stuff after looking at my train. It looks so much better in person!

If the piece won't fall out then your cutting at an angle. Could be simply the angle of your table to blade is not zero or the blade is bending causing an unintended tapered cut. What size blade are you using on this one inch thick walnut? I'd suggest a 9. Or even a 12 if it's not an intricate cut.

ok here it is....... I still plan on putting it on a piece of hardwood and box it in with plexiglass.

Great job!

Here's a pic of the build so far..... This thing is bigger than I thought it would be

Welcome to the village.

Looks Like you did a great job to me!

Great looking wood for the box

This picture shows 4 pages of 12 pages of train parts. 23.5 hours into the finescrollsaw Victorian train build. This is a big project. All the train parts are cut with the exception of the tracks. Now I just have to put it all together. One note : Never use a home printer for copying patterns that interlock. The home printer skewed the patterns disproportionally. Meaning if you measure from left to right about 3 inches in youll notice it's off by 1/32 the half way across it'll be 1/16 then at the far right it was as much as 1/8 off. Needless to say this screwed up the entire project. Some parts had to be recut. I'm hoping to salvage the rest. Well see what happens during the build.

This thing is so accurate that I found out the bottom stop on my planer was off. It's supposed to be 1/8 inch or .125 but the Wixey kept stopping at .135, I measured with my dial caliper and sure enough it was off. Even though that is a very very small error I decided to adjust the stop on the planer. Now it cuts exactly .125 inches.

That looks great nice job

Looks good to me!!

Real fun or a real pain in the butt!

I can see why very very nice

Nice wood choice!

That's really cool looking

Sometimes you've gotta go look at old issues you have to see stuff you missed. I don't know what made me look in this one but thought wow I could do that. I like it. Thinking it might be a Xmas gift for mom

Looks great. I like the stripe down the ribbon. Good choice of wood colors

That's nifty, never thought it would cut through metal. See I am always getting great new ideas from this site!! Great job.

that's about what I was thinking! (40 with the glass dish) however you must supply the glass dish because the tray is made to fit this specific dish. the length is made for the length of the dish and the handles are an outline of the handle of that specific dish. The glass handle fits exactly in the wood handle. thanks

Ok, so i got this in yesterday, installed it last night and just played with it a little today. First impressions I thought it was little cheap feeling, plastic, light weight. I installed it no issues, and after a 5 cuts i have to say i'm impressed so far. I think further use to see how durable it is and how well it consitently repeats the same size cut. but overall I think it's pretty good. here are some pics and explanations of the install and use. ok this is what comes in the package. some of the parts won't be used. it has different parts for different models of planers. I have a ridgid 13 planer and it doesn't not fit directly on mine. I had to make some adjustments but nothing major. the main component, the measuring computer and arm, comes with double sided tape on the back. You'll remove the factory position indicator and this sticks on top of the factory tape measure. in my case the tape on the component was in the wrong spot so i removed it and put on some new tape. You also have the option of drilling holes in the case and bolting it on perminently. (parts are all included for this). at the very bottom, you can see a stop bolt, there are 3 different lengths depending on your machine, i used the middle size. if you dont' bolt the measuring component to the machine you must use this stop bolt, it keeps it from settleing down below the table height. there is a bracket that gets bolted on where the old plastic position indicator was. in my case with this Ridgid planer, I could not use the original bolt holes, or at least I used only the top one. I had to drill a hold in the base just above to install the new bolt (drill bit and new bolts included) it was very very easy and straight forward. in the pic below you can see a third hole just below teh bracket, that was the original factory hole. The original screws are too small for the bracket so you just need a washer. (not included) I didn't have any that small but I did have a machine nut that fit perfectly. this is just a close up of the same above ok so now on to the cutting of a board. I took a board 4 inches wide, and kept running it through taking just 1/32 of an inch off each time. the planer says one half of a turn on the wheel equals 1/32. and that seemed just about right according to teh digital. I did this 5 times. the last time as you can see in the pic below it sayd the board was 11/32 thick. then I used the wixley to measure the thickness of the board, another feature it has (see the next pic) here you can see that I measured teh board and it says it was teh same thickness 11/32. to measure a board you change the setting from absolute to increment and simply lift the foot and place the board under it, release the foot and when it contacts teh board, you read the guage. it reads a negative number. then I took my dial caliper to measure the board thickness and it was almost dead on accurate to 11/32 or .345 " Like I said i'm impressed with it's accuracy. the only question I'll have next is will it last a long time or break in a year. also how accurate will it be at repeating teh same cut after 100 or even 500 times instead of just the 5 I did tonight. I'll try to remember to update this in teh future. Hopefully someone finds this helpful Mike

That's a great cut!

The dish was 7$, the wood and materials (glue 2 blades sand paper and clear coat) was about $12 I think. Took me about 3 hours to make. On the oak/walnut one the wood was all free! I guess my real question should have been what would you pay for it instead of what would you charge. Several items I've made I just can't charge what it costs in labor. No one would pay that much. So some items I get hammered on then others I can hammer back and make up for it. Figuring cost is always hard for me. I don't wanna ask too much but can't do it for free either. Anyway. Thanks for all the comments.

Very nice!

Just got home.... Wood magazine issue 173, November 2006