jerry1939

I'm good. It's the rest of you that concern me.

Give it up people !!!!!!!!!!! I was merely stating that someone scrolled a piece of coconut shell, which I had never heard of. Quite looking for something that isn't there. I'm starting to wonder about you guys. Maybe it's time to surrender the car keys.

Loctite was not holding screw # 45 in this image. Bought a longer set screw from a hardware store & put a lock nut on the part that extends beyond the clamp. Screw is M6 X 20 - 1 Pitch. Nut is M6 - 1 Pitch. jerry

Here is a nice protractor I posted quite some time ago. Resize as needed and laminate it. I glued mine on 1/8" ply. Cut the bottom outside the line and sand to the line. Also, cut a small notch at zero degrees. Tilt the piece from behind a tensioned blade and pull the top forwards you & set your angle. I really like mine. ProtractorOne.pdf

Here is a self framing pattern I posted in "New Patterns". In retrospect, I should have changed the angle to 4 degrees, not 6 as shown on the pattern. That cut was made with a FD UR # 3. Blade width will also be a factor.

Go back and read the first paragraph of the original post.

I sharpen 1/8" bits the same way as 1/2". I should have also added (using the side of an emery wheel as an example): "Hold the bit at an angle of approximately 4 o'clock & 10 o'clock. Start grinding the heel while rotating & finishing with the cutting edge. KEEP MOVING! Do not overheat. I sharpen wood spiral & spade bits with a hand file.

We are both right and also both wrong. I was thinking with the bit in the drilling position & you were thinking of the bit held with cutting edge on top. We are both on the same page. The old quote, "Is the glass half full or half empty".

All the above. I have been sharpening drill bits for a lot of years. Use either the side of an emery grinder or a fairly course belt sander. You must practice on a much larger bit, until you know how & can see what you are doing. The leading (cutting) edge must be slightly lower than the heel (trailing edge). If it's the opposite, the bit will ride on the heel and the cutting edge will not contact the material. Especially with metal, if the angle is too steep, the outer, cutting edge will chip off. Just do a quick pass on one half of the bit, give it a 1/2 turn and do a quick pass on the second side. DO NOT keep grinding & heat the bit. You should always be able to hold the ground edge between your fingers. Overheating will cause it to turn blue and take the temper out of it, resulting in a softer metal. I usually line up a few bits to sharpen. Do a quick pass on the 1st and move on to the next. Repeat as needed. If you learn on larger bits, it's like riding a bike. It will become automatic to you quickly. jerry

I wouldn't trade my foot switch for all the tea in China. Maybe it will give you a thought to work with. http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/15942-my-new-command-control-center/?tab=comments#comment-151651

With your good looks, how do manage to keep the Ladies away? Great job of cutting!

I haven't been able to find it again, but on another site, a person made an elephant pendant out of a piece of coconut shell. Was asked where he/she got the pattern and the response was "PM me". Guess we need to start eating more coconut. jerry

Hi Runa. Almost everyone on this site disagrees with me on this. I buy 2' X 2' luan (inexpensive) from Lowe's. On anything even remotely fragile, I put a piece of luan behind the piece I am working on. Run the grain in the opposite direction on each piece. That adds a tremendous amount of strength to what you are working on. On tiny pieces, it chips the sacrifice board and what you are working on stays fine. Cheap insurance for the hours spent on some projects. jerry

Some people see a glass as half full & others see it as half empty. Re; My last post. Go back and read the last sentence. The thought was that the customer bring, or ship, the clock parts to you and upon receiving said clock, you build the clock. NOT sell the wood for them to install the clock. Just an honest misinterpretation.

I don't sell any of my pieces, however here is a thought for those of you that sell clocks. After reading all the above posts, it's obvious that some of your customers will have a reason to point a finger at you when the clock they paid for quits. Consider this; If someone comes to you and wants a clock, explain some of the horror stories shared in this posting. Next tell the customer, "You furnish the motor, hands & dial. I will saw the piece". That would keep the monkey off of your back.

I only made one clock since scrolling. Don't remember where I ordered the motor and hands from. Paid for 1 and they sent 2. Both were junk. Vowed to never again make a clock. In retrospect, I should have made my own design for the area where the clock is. Decided that I'm smarter now. If any of you think that you want to make a clock, go to Walmart and buy your clock for a lot less money. Use the motor & hands and throw the case in the junk. When that one dies, repeat the process.

The Praying Hands image was imported into (and traced with bezier tool) Inscape. Source of the image is Pinterest, Royalty Free. Oval frame is mine. Cleared this with Travis, as there is a similarity to this; http://www.scrolleronline.com/product/Praying_Hands_Frame_Art_Scroll_Design/369 Will post the pattern in Pattern Announcements. If you are uncomfortable cutting it, by all means don't. Here is the Pinterest image: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/159385274289900183/

When I cut an oval or round plaque, I start by cutting around the outside with a bandsaw. Make at least 6 "handles" to grip when rotating the piece. It makes your life a lot easier. When sawing a "handle", cut toward the piece & widen the cut enough that you can rotate around the bandsaw blade. Saw to the next "handle" & repeat. jerry

I once knew a guy that would say, "It's a good thing we DON'T all think alike, otherwise every guy would be chasing after the same woman". I don't want anything as large as the original posting. Thanks to Wayne's idea, I went to Wally World and bought a narrow, ratchet type belt. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mens-Ratchet-Color-Belt-Automatic-Buckle-Genuine-Leather-belt/245605073 WalMart # 1472. Here is my revised plan. Today I took a 1/8" BB ply and sandwiched it between 2 sacrifice boards. Cut the piece shown, 1/16" higher than the belt buckle and oversize length. Cut the vertical lines between each letter. Quit for the day because of Iowa heat. When I laid 2 pieces on the buckle, there was less of a gap than I expected. Tomorrow I will bevel 1 side of 1 piece, put a wax paper on the buckle, clamp and glue 2 pieces together. When that cures, repeat the process. That will take a long time. When the curved wood is done, sand both glue joints, inside & outside. It may very well end up in the trash at this point. If not, cut the width as needed. Next, cut narrow pieces for the 4 sides (Think ""picture frame"). Let it extend above the letters slightly (The way the fronts of kitchen cabinets are built). There will be no backer, because the cuts for the letters are so narrow. Will scuff up the buckle with a file and possibly use epoxy to attach it. IF I succeed, there won't be a status report for a long time. If I fail and give up along the, will let you know.

Because of Religious reasons (I'm a Devout Cheapskate), I went to WalMart.com and searched "men's leather belts". They have what's called "automatic" & "ratchet" buckles. Will look what is in the store or possibly order one. Sand the buckle rough and apply wood directly to the buckle with construction adhesive (I like Liquid Nails). Thinking of trying 2 layers of plywood with a scrolled name & a backer. Would need to sand a curve in the backer to match the buckle. I would respectively request that you not inquire how many times I've had a bright idea that failed. jerry

My hands shake also. Became a top feeder when I bought my Delta and think that's the only way to go. When doing a piece that has a bunch of tiny cutouts, when bottom feeding, I would too often insert the blade in a place I had already cut. Like so many things, top feeding comes automatically to you in a short time. Lift the upper arm with the right hand & insert the blade with your left hand. While the arm is lowering, slide the wood around until you locate the hole in the table. Also, when inserting a new blade in the top, raise the arm/blade and bend the blade so that it aligns with the bottom clamp. jerry

Belt with removable buckle. They show black & brown in different lengths. $12.95 (plus shipping??) https://www.walmart.com/ip/CTM-174-Size-38-Mens-Leather-1-3-8-Inch-Removable-Buckle-Bridle-Belt-Black/47729322

Here they show a price each. Haven't looked in a store for a belt that would snap onto it. My guess is that would be a problem. Would be neat to have your name on one & a seasonal theme on others. https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/oval-buckle-blank jerry

I Googled this: buy ring hinges for jewelry boxes Perhaps there might be something there that you want. Hopes this helps Friend.