jerry1939

Not sure how your sawdust looks, but your finished piece LOOKS OUTSTANDING !! jerry

jerry

I think most (or all) brands of saws have blade clamps with a screw on each side. You mentioned that one clamp tightens on the right and the other on the left. IF it's handier for you, the screws can be switched, so that they both tighten on the same side. The reason for a "somewhat permanent" screw on the side that you don't tighten is to align the blade right to left, top to bottom. Hope this helps Friend.

Also check if your left blade holder screw is recessed. If so, when you tighten the blade, the right screw puts a kink in it.

Wayne, Sometimes when you are not looking, life happens.

Not much to add to all the excellent things posted above, except: 1. Are you checking blade tension. With no wood, do you get a ping sound. Run it for a few minutes and see if you are maintaining that sound. 2. Is it possible that the blade is slipping in one or both clamps, and you are losing your original tension? If so, I rub the blade holding screws on the concrete to clean them. Also have sandpaper glued on a paint stick and sand both sides of each end of a new blade before inserting it. Hope you find a "cure" soon Friend. jerry

I cut a wide apron out of a blue tarp. Whenever I get up to drill more holes, I dump it into the waste basket nearby. Shop vac the saw and floor about every hour. jerry

Some things to add to my earlier posting. If you followed this site for a few years, you would see that Delta, Dewalt and probably others are shipped from the factory with minimal grease. Some people report bearings going out in under a year. When I unpacked mine, I ran it to make sure it was OK and disassembled a brand new saw and greased it. Because I am retired (in Iowa), I only saw as a hobby, in good weather. 1. Perhaps you have one or more bearings that need to be replaced because of a lack of grease. 2. I posted pictures of; a. The groove for the tension rod that needs to be filed deeper. (A taper on the left edge in the photo.) You might see scuffing from the rod to indicate what needs to be filed away. b. The bolt that broke but stayed in place, causing a rattle.

I have done a lot of mechanical work in my lifetime. Numerous times, the problem wasn't where I thought it was. For example, I have a 40-694. It started making noise also. When you rotate the tension lever, it pulls a rod that leads to the back of the saw. Delta (and Dewalts) don't leave enough clearance internally for the rod. I removed the switch & tension lever. The bottom of the rod was hitting a piece below it. Take a chainsaw file and file a notch below the tension rod. Another time. mine sheared a bolt located in the back (internally.) It was a design flaw that put the entire load on an undersized bolt. The one on the end of the connecting rod (not the end on the motor shaft, the other end.) The outer end of the bolt sheared and it was still sawing, but it rattled. I went to a local hardware store and replaced it with a stainless steel bolt, which is harder. Problem solved. Ike, with all due respect to you, and others, DO NOT get hung up on a "Tension Number." Each time you clamp the blade, it is slightly higher or lower in the clamp, making your tension number meaningless. More importantly, when you thread the blade through the wood and clamp it, the drilled hole in the wood isn't in perfect alignment with the 2 blade clamps. Now you are "wasting" the first part of the tension by pulling the wood into alignment. To learn to tension, without any wood, practice tensioning by the amount of pressure you need to get the blade to "ping." After you have learned how to do that, when stack cutting, you will now find that each time you tension, you end up with a completely different number. Scrollers would do themselves a favor if they covered those silly tension numbers with a piece of tape. jerry

"Bingo" is a Catholic word. I'm allowed to use it but don't know if you are.

I have a 40-694. If you look at the schematic for each, they appear to be 95% identical. Have read on this site that the Delta is harder to get parts for. Would bet that 788 parts would work fine. Everyone has their own opinion. I didn't feel that yellow paint is $100 prettier. It is possible the motor mounts are different. I don't know.

Bandaidman, Some fonts I find easier to put in bridges are; FCraft, Droid, TWeen, Asimov (Notation seems to be a bold version of Asimov, Copperhead Bold & Hollandale. I'm sure others have their own favorites. A correction to a statement I made earlier on this same page. I opened the newest version of inkscape today, I went to other sites for a while. When I got back to inkscape, when I OPENED RECENT, it popped right up without waiting. jerry

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/827218/how-to-determine-whether-a-computer-is-running-a-32-bit-version-or-64-bit-version-of-the-windows-operating-system

Bummer. I uninstalled the old version also. Now it only allows you to download the latest, which I did. It saved all my previous fonts. I don't use inkscape much. Just some word art, intersecting word art and currently tracing a stock photo that I imported. My thoughts; Pros It seems slightly more user friendly. Haven't had it do some of the weird things that the old version had. It prints full size from inkscape. With the older one, it printed smaller, so I saved to PDF. That printed to the sized that you set on the computer. When you SAVE a pattern, it doesn't put an icon on the screen. Saves clutter on the desktop. Cons The first time I SAVED, I put it in PDF, as in the past (2 icons, svg & PDF.) I thought I lost the PDF. No icon, not in Adobe or Pictures. Wasted 5 minutes until I went into Inscape - RECENT PLACES. There they were. Svg & PDF (PDF is no longer required.) With the old icons, you clicked on the one you wanted and it opened right up (If inscape was already opened.) With the new version, OPEN RECENT - Click on what you want and you need to wait for a new inscape to load. That part is noticeably slower. Might have more thoughts later, but for now I like it. jerry

Great job Dick. How often in the lives of us old geezers have we found out that sometimes it's easier and better just to tackle a task by ourselves. Personally, I have lost count. jerry

https://www.facebook.com/michael.bienvenu.9/videos/581782861876130/ jerry

Here is what I found: http://www.scrollsawartist.com/skateboarding-ornaments.html https://www.google.com/search?q=scroll+saw+patterns+skateboarding&biw=1537&bih=844&tbm=isch&imgil=ZBEwDw9P0amL-M%253A%253BcxFdokqMAF5lYM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fscrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com%25252F2010%25252F12%25252Fxtreme-sk8-skate-board-scroll-saw.html&source=iu&pf=m&fir=ZBEwDw9P0amL-M%253A%252CcxFdokqMAF5lYM%252C_&usg=__5qP7PPm9lLCnFtMUe1YWOD9N_2k%3D#imgrc=ZBEwDw9P0amL-M: jerry

I am happy with the 2 blades I use mostly. FDUR #3 & #5 from Wooden Teddy Bear. What are your thoughts on changing to Pegas. Which Pegas blades would be comparable? Thanks a bunch. jerry

I uninstalled 0.91 The only option Inkscape gives now is 0.92 Played with it a little today and found it to be more user friendly. Would recommend it, however I am definitely not at all skilled and only use it on a limited basis. jerry

My Sweet Wife and I are married close to 55 years. At my age, I can't even remember the last QUICKIE. Another one of your nice pieces Kevin. Thanks for sharing. jerry

When I look at the amount of hours that a lot of the people on this site spend sawing, i.e. look at the displays posted of the booths at craft shows, the more I am convinced that you nice folks expect HOBBY quality saws to last as long as an automobile. I did a Google search for "Industrial Scroll Saw" and really only found one. If you want to dance, you have to pay the piper. http://96.31.44.91/p-114-polymax-8-speed-industrial-precision-scroll-saw.aspx jerry

To see some of my "stuff", go to Facebook and search SCROLL SAWING jerry

Thanks. That's a lot faster & easier way you just taught me/us.

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Well done Buckaroo! jerry