Jump to content

jerry1939

Member
  • Posts

    4,306
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    91

Everything posted by jerry1939

  1. We have all "Been there, Done that." Personally, when doing delicate things, I wouldn't even consider NOT putting a "sacrifice board" on both the top and bottom. Run the grain of the sacrifice boards opposite the piece you want. To me, it's darn cheap insurance on something that will take a lot of time. Often give away the sacrifice board(s) to anyone that wants it. They often spray paint and use them. jerry
  2. Even Henry Ford would admire your efficiency Sir. jerry
  3. For Delta parts, I would experiment with Dewalt parts. i.e. Order a bolt and/or a sleeve. The schematics looks like they both came off of the same assembly line. Both use metric bolts. EXs use mostly standard thread. For Delta & Dewalt, you buy the bolts & nuts at the hardware store. Should be the same for the EX. On the EX, the online sites want to sell you only whole assemblies for an arm and a leg. Have not dealt with Seyco to see if you can get small parts from them. jerry
  4. "Hey look everyone! There's a Starbucks across the street. Lets all go in. The coffees on me today." Seriously, that's a very nice apron. Thank you for bringing a lot of smiles to the site. jerry
  5. I bought a 40-694 last year. Well pleased with it. Delta http://www.deltamachinery.com/downloads/manuals/scroll_saws/40-694/40-694%20Scroll%20Saw%20Parts%20List%20Rev%203.pdf Schematic looks identical to the 788. https://www.1800toolrepair.com/tool-repair-parts/dewalt/scroll-saw/dw788/dw788type2 Pick whatever color matches your shirt, but be sure to compare prices. jerry
  6. Thanks All. You are the best. Tried Googling Mike's instead of clicking it in Favorites. My anti virus still doesn't like it. I would like to take this opportunity to refrain from sharing with you what I REALLY think of computers and all this new fangled technology. jerry
  7. rjR was kind enough to post this site. http://www.pozsgaidesigns.com/index.htm I use FD UR blades. Decided to check this out. Interesting !! He sells Olson Precision Ground for $36.50 per gross. Olson Mach Series for $28. Clicked on Mike's Workshop and got a huge WARNING !! screen from my anti virus stating "Don't go there!" Went to Wooden Teddy Bear. 1 gross of FD UR # 5 is $42 Both sites are "Plus S&H" My question are; 1. Is this a No Brainer? or 2. Do you get what you pay for? I use mostly FD UR # 5 & 3. All Comments appreciated!!!!! If I switch to Olson, which is a better substitute compared to the FD UR # 5? Thanks a bunch. jerry
  8. DW, DID YOU KNOW THAT YOU GOTTA BUY A TICKET !!!!!!!!!!!!!?? jerry
  9. Wow ! Looks like it was made yesterday. You should use it as a centerpiece on your dining table. As for the value, on hard to price items, I was always taught that the monetary value is whatever figure the Seller and the Buyer agree on. jerry
  10. Dick, Again you find out that everyone on this site is his/her own worst critic. Looks perfect Friend !!! jerry
  11. Hi Nice Lady, Ask for a show of hands of the people on this site that cannot see a perceived flaw in their piece. Your project looks excellent, and you are right where you should be, your own worst critic. When I show my wife something I THINK I should have done better, the Sweet Lady, always tells me that I am the only on that will notice it. Keep up the good work Friend. jerry
  12. Dick, If I make something that will hang, I always use a 1/4" backer. For example, on this one, I laid the cut piece on a backer board. Drew around one side of the dove on top. Slid the fret over to hide the first drawn lines and drew around the other side of the dove. Removed the fret and drew and sawed a horizontal oval in the backer, inside of the drawn lines. Painted the backer, positioned the dove over the cutout, glued on the fret & cut the perimeter. The oval allows the piece to be moved side to side so that it hangs straight. jerry
  13. Hi Nice Lady, Everyone on this site had a "first piece" at on time. Yours is great and you and your Mom both deserve to be proud of it. jerry
  14. Hi Friend, Not a lot I can add EXCEPT; Almost every woman will say men take better care of their cars, tools, etc, etc, than they do of their own bodies. Please change your priorities. Stay the heck out of your workshop until you have gained some control over your own health. The impression I got was that you are doing everything you can to give yourself a heart attack. As the male species, almost everyone of us is too dense to recognize our own problems, be it drinking, gambling, overeating etc. You deserve better Old Buddy. jerry
  15. Dick, As usual, your work looks GREAT !! However, if I walked into a restaurant and the first thing I saw was the owner using the rolling pin for a hammer ............................. jerry
  16. I've never felt a desire to do inlay, so others will need to help. Can you: 1. Put the inlay pattern on the thin piece and cut it. 2. Put a clear sheet of paper on the thick piece. Set the thin cut piece on the thick, clear paper and trace your next pattern. The inlay will probably only drop in the thick piece, the blade width used for the second (thick) piece. You would need to experiment with some kind of spacer for tracing the 2nd piece. WORK WITH SCRAP FIRST !! 3. Perhaps using a ball point pen would be a starting test for the 2nd piece. Hope you get better ideas Friend. jerry
  17. One time I set up a booth at a market with a sign; FREE HUGS Mothers always grabbed their children and ran away. jerry
  18. Hey Kevin, It must be a tough life for you, knowing that the Ladies find you irresistible !!!! jerry
  19. Found this on Google. Will it work? jerry
  20. I did this with MS Word. The extra lines you see are where I cut with a scissors. Also use a one hole paper punch (you can see through the bottom) and snip off a quarter circle from each corner. Wood glue to the back or bottom. jerry Scroll Project 2- Jerry Herold.doc
  21. Just my 2 cents worth, so take it for what it works. The drill holes detract from your excellent piece. Personally, I drill outside the line. Cut towards the line & make a fairly sharp turn onto the line. After the cut is established nicely on the line, back out to the hole. Rotate 180 degrees and back into your first cut. That established line will serve as a guide for the blade to cut in the opposite direction. Keep going and later return to your original cut. You are on the right track Friend. Everyone on this site made their first piece at one time. jerry
  22. John, I take my hat off to someone as kind and hardworking as you, especially for such a long period of time. I give most of my pieces to the Stephan Ministry at our Catholic Church. It's a group of people that visit and console the grieving, depressed, homebound, etc. to be given to help take their minds off of there burdens. Hopefully, when I show up at the Pearly Gates, one of them will try to pull me in. jerry
  23. Almost all the replies pertain to the nut coming off. As stated earlier, on mine the bolt sheared off just inside the nut. Re: replacing with stainless steel. Years ago I had a concrete saw that also took metal cutting blades. Stainless steel was harder and wore out the saw blades much faster. Have done a lot of mechanical work in my life, and if a bolt sheared that shouldn't, I have never found it to be a problem replacing it with something harder, but to each their own. jerry
  24. Kevin, That's the same bolt that spit in the middle on my Delta a couple of weeks ago. I replaced it with a stainless steel bolt from a local hardware store. Stainless is usually a harder metal. Stupid design flaw to put the entire load of the saw on that one undersized bolt. jerry
  25. Dick. You are a kind hearted gentleman. God Bless. jerry
×
×
  • Create New...