-
Posts
4,306 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
91
Content Type
Store
Profiles
How-To & Articles
Scroll Saw Reviews
Clubs & Organizations
Clubs & Organizations International
Pattern Shop
Suppliers
Village University
Help Desk
Forums
Gallery
eBooks
Everything posted by jerry1939
-
You are on the right track. Here's my 1 cent worth. On your second posting, does the photo look "busy"/confusing? Would it look better if you took an internet picture of your brand of saw for sale, to show more of a side view of the saw? jerry
-
Dave, Only you can decide which route to take. When it comes to mechanical repairs, everyone is either (good)(fair) or (all thumbs.) This appears to be your first incident with the saw. There will be more over the years and you will be faced with something again. If you choose to go the warranty route, check the freight both ways. I'm 76 years old and trust myself more than someone with a certificate on the wall that reads, "Factory Trained Technician." A lot of them couldn't make change for a dime. If you tackle it yourself, watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i7EWpq3aQeU A lot of it is a waste of your time. On a piece of paper, write the time in the video that pertains to you, so that you have starting points to review before starting the repair, THOUROULY CLEAN YOUR WORK AREA!! Use the attitude that the smallest, most critical piece will start orbiting the earth. Build a "wall" around the saw to catch dropped pieces. (lumber scraps)(rolled up carpets)(wife's dresses). You will drop something. Below the saw table, remove the bolt from the arm that drives the lower assembly. Prop up the back of the lower arm and the front of the saw body. Remove 2 bolts and pull the 2 apart. Split the saw body. Take a picture if you like. IF you find a broken bolt, measure the diameter, decide the length and go to your largest hardware store. (The first store I went to didn't stock anything that long.) IF there is a broken bolt on the rocker arm, you will need to take the crankshaft off of the motor to replace a bolt. The nut on the motor shaft is left-hand thread & darn tight!!! However, I have great respect for people that recognize their limitations. If you don't want to be without a saw for who knows how long, someone on this site once made the comment, "A scroll saw is like a roll of toilet paper. Always keep an extra one under the sink," Here is a spare I would recommend; http://www.farmandfleet.com/products/897887-skil-scroll-saw.html?feedsource=3&gclid=CNfO54Ti-80CFQmRaQodllQEyg I had a Performax (no longer made) that I bought new for $69 at Menards that was identical to this. Have posted pictures of a couple of things I made with a $69 saw. Do NOT let anyone convince you that you Need bells and whistles. Good luck Friend. jerry
-
Dave, I will echo CharlieL. The stupid design puts the entire load on just that undersized bolt. In retrospect, I think that my bolt split in the middle quite some time ago. Got it back together & running this morning. Was pleasantly surprised to find that it now runs quieter. In order to install the bolt, you need to remove the crankshaft from the motor & pull it toward you to get room to hold the nut. THE MOTOR SHAFT HAS A LEFT HAND THREAD !!!!!!!!!!!! The motor has a square counterbalance on it. Grip that securely with a snap on wrench to hold the motor from turning. The nut is on darn tight, BUT REMEMBER THAT IT IS A LEFT HAND THREAD. Apparently my saw ran quite a while with the bolt split in the middle, but I didn't know it. Eventually it ejected the half on the motor side. jerry
-
I have a Delta, which appears to have the same working mechanism. The last 2 days I had "something" similar to what you described. Slowing down the blade speed helped. Today it suddenly stopped working. A bolt had sheared off. Bought a bolt at the hardware store and have about 20 minutes to finish reassembling tomorrow. To see the bolt, go to; http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/dewalt-dw788-type-1-heavy-duty-20-quot-variable-speed-scroll-saw.html On the bottom right, keep hitting the plus sign to enlarge the picture. It was bolt number 27, on the right side of the connecting rod. Delta has a better picture; http://www.deltamachinery.com/downloads/manuals/scroll_saws/40-694/40-694%20Scroll%20Saw%20Parts%20List%20Rev%203.pdf Part number 34. Metric M5 X M35 long. jerry
-
Falcon, I think that Kevin mounts the wood on sawhorses and moves his saw around. jerry
-
I normally don't post anything in Bragging Rights, and this piece isn't anything special, however, it's a Sue Mey pattern I like. Have cut 2 so far. It's a nice gift for someone that has lost a loved one. Would recommend the pattern. Sue sends it as 16 1/2" tall. I resized it to 9 1/2". A hanging slot in the backer, hidden behind the dove. http://www.scrollsawartist.com/?subcats=Y&status=A&pshort=Y&pfull=Y&pname=Y&pkeywords=Y&search_performed=Y&q=memorial+cross&dispatch=&dispatch=products.search jerry
-
Because of Religious reason (I'm a devout cheapskate), I just use empty drinking water bottles with labels I print with MS Word. Put a rubber band around the top and bottom, to store "a slightly used" blade on the outside of the bottle. Made a "spice rack" to store them in, with the labels showing. When I take out a new blade, I return that bottle up-side-down, to remind me what blade is in the saw. jerry
-
I have a Delta and I think that it is the same as a DW788. BE AWARE THAT THE MOTOR SHAFT IS A LEFT HAND THREAD !!!!!!!!!!!!! There is a counterweight behind the bearing. Put a vise grip on it. On my Delta, the nut was REALLY, REALLY tight. I took mine apart when it was brand new & greased all the bearings. Re: Ordering parts. Some people on this site use http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ I ordered a non-essential part for my Delta 5/17/17. 6/9 I got an e-mail stating, "We don't know when our supplier will ship to us." Same e-mail 6/21, & 6/28. The part still isn't here, but the saw runs fine as is. I would "guess" that you only need the bearing, however, when you press the bearing out you should be able to see if there is damage outside. Also, take a magnifying glass and see if you can read a number on the side of the bearing. If so, try a Google search of "buy bearings." jerry
-
Re: your second fraction. 3 divided by 8 = .375. Plus the one means you want to resize to 1.375 Your pattern is 2.75 inches. 1.375 divided by 2.75 = 50%, your desired ratio. To double check it your answer is correct take the desired size of 1.375 and multiply it by 2. The result is 2 3/4 (2,75), your current pattern size. Hope this helps friend. jerry
-
Gotta love the Canadians and their talent !! jerry
-
Len, If it is true that Delta parts are hard to get, I wouldn't bet the rent that the dewalt 788 isn't an identical saw, except for some exterior differences. Perhaps Delta owners would be better off ordering from the 788 schematic. My first saw was a Menards Performax (no longer made.) At the time, our Lowes had an identical saw for $120, but my shriveled brain doesn't remember the brand. I just check their site and they don't stock it anymore. jerry
-
About a year ago, I bought a new Delta. Before mounting it on the stand, I disassembled the brand new saw and greased it. Wasn't sure if one sleeve (the small "tube/pipe" inside the roller bearing) had a line across it. (Hairline crack????) May 9th I decided to order a new sleeve, plus an "extra", thinking the freight would be about the same. Ordered from "eReplacementParts.com". Received e-mails June 9th & 22nd stating, basically, that "We don't have a date when our supplier will ship to us, etc. etc". Thankfully the saw has always run fine and I am not in a panic mode. jerry
-
Another Intersection Name plates!!
jerry1939 replied to Alexander Helbich's topic in Bragging Rights
You did excellent spacing/positioning on all your words. Give yourself a "high five" Friend. jerry -
Joe, If you have a Lowes, they will give you 1 free cut and charge for more cuts. I have found that if you are polite and friendly, the guy usually "forgets" to charge for the extra cuts. I made a mini table saw similar to this. Mounted it on the back of my miter saw stand. 2 wheels on the back for moving it. You would need a switch along side & extra electrical cord. jerry
-
Hope everything goes smoothly. Enjoy your "new" home, Nice Lady!! I knew a guy that would say, "I would sure help you move, if my back was better."
-
Dave, Go ahead and brag. You earned the right! jery
-
I have found that there is a connection to how great the piece is and the probability that I will drop & break it. Remember Marg, when you were a child, your Mother never told you that life would be easy. jerry
-
Joe, Awesome viewed from any angle!! A "LIKE" from me. jerry
-
Hi All, Me again. Please do yourselves a favor. Don't ever think about using "building a clock" and "sale price" in the same sentence. Fantasy and reality are not to be confused. Only build an elaborate clock if you intend to have it passed on to future generations. Personally, I build a custom crate for transporting mine, as it will be moved over the (years)(decades). jerry
-
BREADSTICK, Making a clock is no different than walking to your car in the parking lot. You take one step at a time. Remember your basics. Cut one piece and do it well. If you "hurry it up" with each piece, the finished product will "look like you hurried it up." If you enjoy scrolling, by all means go for it. My attitude is that patience has nothing to do with it. I feel that there is no difference in making clock parts each day, or sawing unrelated things each day. The sawdust looks the same. BARRY5180, I had surgeries done on one eye 20 years ago. Only turned out "fair." Eye strain is my limiting factor. I saw for 2 hours in the P.M., take a 1 hour coffee break with my Sweet Wife of 54 years & go back and saw 2 more hours. Can't stay at it any longer. For the clock and a pedestal, 7 months elapsed from start to finish. It has been given to a son in Des Moines, Iowa. THANK YOU ALL for the nice comments! jerry
-
I worked with wood for years, however, this is the first scroll saw project I ever did. It was done with a $69 Menards Performax saw. Solid 1/4" oak. Took 7 months, including the pedestal. York Minstrel Cathedral pattern by Al Spicer. jerry
-
1/8" or 1/4" or thicker? The Question.... :+}
jerry1939 replied to danny's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Danny, I do not personally don't have a desire to do portraits, but for fret projects, i.e. Sue Mey, Steve Good, word art, etc, I ALWAYS try to go with 1/8". I feel that with 1/4", you need to look "further back" to see the contrasting backer. Also, the thinner the better if it is looked at from an angle. Have also used 1/16" for interesecting word art for our 2 sons that have desk jobs. Just my 2 cents worth Friend. jerry -
For those of you that use pallet wood
jerry1939 replied to jerry1939's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Dan my Friend, be sure to wear your safety goggles when prying pallet boards loose with a beer bottle! jerry -
-
Sick? SICK??? I thought that Iowa people were tougher than that. Glad you are starting to feel better. Chicken soup and scrolling will cure most anything. jerry
