jerry1939
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Everything posted by jerry1939
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Print your picture and cut it. I see the photo as a pattern.
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I have a question for you. Where do you buy your weed? Do they have a site that I could order from? jerry
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I retired & gave my 40-694 to a son. Here is what I had to do; Remove the switch. Remove the tension lever. The tension rod was hitting the metal below the switch & leaving a mark. Pushed the rod to the side & filled a groove in the metal with a chainsaw file. That cured it for me, but not sure it sounds like your problem. jerry
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Thanks for the picture. You do good work for a kid. jerry (aka jerry 1939)
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Just found this from Mr. Google. Hope it helps.
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I retired from scrolling & we gave the 40-694 to a son. Never needed repairs. But if a Delta needs repairs, I'd bet the rent that everything (with the possible exception of the motor) could be replaced with Dewalt parts, or by a Dewalt Service Center. jerry
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Or a locking nut. On my delta, one of the blade clamp adjusting screws kept moving. Bought a longer screw & put on a locking nut. Problem solved.
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Guys like you should be banned from the site. !!! jerry
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Had one on the saw I gave to a son when I quit. Bought it from Grainger Co. Hard wired it into the foot switch. No way to reset it, had to write down the Start & Finish time. It was interesting, but that's all it was for me. jerry
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A bearing is a bearing, is a bearing. Doesn't matter if is in a scroll saw or a large one in a locomotive. For all you nice people that feel that the load should be taken off of a bearing when it won't be used for a while, when you are done driving your vehicle for the day, please jack up all 4 corners & take the load off of the wheel bearings. For all you great people that think prolonged tension hurts, FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, don't drive over a bridge that is supported by concrete beams. Concrete is low in tension strength. It is the pre-stressed cables placed in the lower part of the supporting beams that support the bridge & the load it carries. CONCRETE BRIDGES ARE UNSAFE. STAY OFF OF THEM!! jerry
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Not really apples to apples. Letting something set "for several years" will cause the grease to set up and harden. I spent a bunch of time in the concrete business. All the tensioned cables are coated with plastic, because as you said, without it, brine on the road would rust the cables. Bridges are always the lowest spot in a road, therefore, brine accumulates there. Concrete is porous. If you fill a concrete vessel with water, it will slowly seep out. There are a host of older, smaller bridges that have re-rods in them. They are rusting out, but the politicians would rather spend money on parks & bike trails. You get more votes that way. jerry
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For all you nice people that believe that tension should be releases to protect saw bearings and/or not shorten blade life; 1. When driving over a bridge, keep in mind that before the beams are poured, a lot of cables are tensioned in the form first & the concrete poured next. It is the cables that provide the tensile strength to support the load of the bridge & the traffic. Those cables have been under tension since the beams were poured. 2. Bearings. The bearings in your vehicle wheels & axles have had the weight of the vehicle on them since it left the factory. IF it makes YOU feel good to release the tension, by all means continue to do so, but there is absolutely no advantage to it. jerry
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I quit sawing & gave our Delta to a son. On the lower arm, there are 4 screws holding the mount for the 2 oscillating arms that connect to the blade clamp. Remove the 4 screws & the one that powers the "arms". Pull the mount out. IF you have a Dremel (I used a chainsaw file), file the holes further forward (towards the front of the saw), creating oblong shapes. Reassemble & shim the mount towards the front of the saw. It helps when stack cutting intricate shapes. jerry
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Make sure that you start cutting in the center, & keep working your way to the outer edges. If you start on the outside (or even one side), you weaken the area supporting the center. jerry
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I don't saw anymore, but "Yes" you would cut out the "X" pieces. However, only the small cutouts are marked. On some, you would also remove larger, adjoining pieces. jerry
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ANYTIME you drill the same hole with 2 different sizes, be sure to use the large bit first. If you do the smaller bit first, the larger bit wants to jerk in and do the entire hole. Won't tell you how I learned that !! jerry
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THANK YOU KIND SIR !! I owe you a cool refreshing beverage. jerry
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Was digging thru my OLD patterns and ran across this. Want to use it and add text, but can't take credit for the image. Not in the Pattern Library, Steve Good or Googling "Scroll saw pattern Christ with thorns". Any help?? jerry
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Sometimes you have to tell on yourself
jerry1939 replied to trackman's topic in General Scroll Sawing
First you get absent minded. Next thing you know, you start forgetting to unzip to pee. jerry -
I tell my Sweet Wife "I'm one step closer to the funny farm". jerry
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Have you considered drinking it? Who knows, it might keep you from getting Covid-19. You didn't hear that from me. Someone else posted this.
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Another watch what your doing on a table saw thread
jerry1939 replied to Oldmansbike's topic in General Scroll Sawing
To oppose to what all of you are saying; Years ago I took an Adult Ed course at a community college. They had a half dozen expensive industrial table saws for teaching their carpenter students. NOT A GUARD IN SITE. It doesn't matter if you are operating a power tool, a car, bulldozer or a toothbrush. It is and will always be a matter of how careful, or careless do you want to be. jerry -
Yes.
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Go to YouTube and search; DIY face mask No sew face mask Enough videos to last you a day. A lot of them use elastic hair ties.
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Thanks Friend. Checked our closest auto parts store; https://www.autozone.com/wash-mitts-chamois-and-other-wash-and-wax-accessories/shop-towel/proelite-red-shop-towels-5-pack/72678_0_0 jerry
