I have a piece of marble state in my shop that use to even things out. I keep it loaded with 120 grit but I have the equipment to make things easier. A good hard straight surface will correct a lot of things.
I use blue painters tape on all my projects. If it's thicker cherry I add a layer of clear packing tape to the top. This has worked for me. On the table saw I use a 24 tooth to cut it then sand any blade marks that may be there.
Frames are not one of my favorite things to make. But the size of the portrait or piece normally dictates a custom frame. I have added backers and then wrapped the piece with iron on veneer and trimmed and sanded to fit. Work best on round pieces. Just another thought.
Would love to cut that myself. Maybe someday when I get caught up. And find the pattern. I do agree with staying away from plywood. Something like that deserves a great board.
Best of luck with your show. The Mrs. and I are doing a week end show in Delmont. Normally has 45,000 visitors plus over 2 days of the event. Keeps us posted on your progress.
I have and use a Dremel plunge router set up. Don't use it for drilling holes though. Mostly for fine detail work on furniture. Great setup and easy to use.
RJ
Steve Good has a set of plans on his site for a dice tower. I went through the last 12 issues of Scroll Saw Mag and didn't see anything there. Hope this helps some.
Kevin
I have the same blade in my Miter saw. I'm sure your going to love it. I use a 24 tooth for ripping on my table saw. good clean cuts and no burning. Glad you got up and running.
I have a Ridgid Cabinet Saw in my shop. It's belt drive and compared to it's predecessor which was direct drive. Hands down on the belt drive . Smoother more power and more reliable in my opinion.