WayneMahler

A lot of the 14 inch saws have a resaw capacity of 6 inches. If your trying to resaw 7 it won't fit, unless you rip it down to 6 or less. So if your getting a lot of wider boards and need the width for projects, I would keep this in mind. Get a saw you will be happy with and will do what you want and expect. If you have be patient and save up then I would bite the bullet and go that route. Saving money and going cheaper will cause you more aggravation and disappointment then the money you saved. Not trying to sound too negative but as they say. Experience is the best teacher. Good luck on your search.

Looks nice. Glad to hear it works so well. Seems these 3D printers are finding their way into everything for different purposes. If you could give us a review after getting some time with it. Best of luck with it.

nice idea and they look great. The one in the very back, by the blade. Is that a 90 to get you back after changing that blade angle? I do like this.

Congrats on your find. Wondering if it is bass wood. Very light in color and weight, no real grain pattern so it's pretty plain looking wood. It is like one step above Balsa wood and tons of people use it for crafts . Regardless happy to hear of your delightful discovery. Hope you find more. One last thought, it's a great wood paint, does not stain well for crap.

I'll bet you were like a little girl Christmas morning in there. Made some nice purchases for sure.

+jerrye Thanks for the education on tape. Any day we can learn something ( and remember it ) is a good day. Gee I hope he don't plan on a pop quiz over this .

I just watched a different video. It was a comparison on some tools. Banggood was where one of them came from. Can't remember #3 but the first was wood peckers. I enjoyed the video but after thought was like comparing a VW to a Mercedes Benz. I'll have to watch this video later on. Always like getting quality for less.

I've been using 3M for years and years. Neve had an issue with it. The wife brought home some off brand stuff and I doubt it would have stuck even if you used a staple gun it. I have heard a lot of good about Duck Brand. Maybe it's made by 3M ?

I've seen this before. Just have to remember where from.

Cool. May have to look and see what colors they come in.

Sounds like you have been on quite the journey to get to the point of cutting. Glad to hear you got things worked out. Patience is a great thing to have while learning. White wood is Pine, it is soft wood and easy to cut. When yiour looking at or for wood. Check your local Craigslist. You can find some free stuff up there. Best of luck on this leg of your journey. Welcome to the addiction.

Nice job on the bird walking. I think it's totally cool. Seen plans for these, never played with them though. Nice work on the video too.

My process is about the same as yours. I use the Blue Painters Tape then spray the pattern attach and cut. I can peel it off as soon as I am done. Never had an issue with residue. I would try the blue painters tape. I have used regular masking take, the brown / tan stuff and had issues with it coming off cleanly in other areas of woodworking. Let us know if you try this and how it works out.

Nice looking shop Dave. Like the way you have some of the work flow setup. Thanks for the tour.

I have the Bessey one. They are nice but have their own set of quirks. And they do work well.

I was just out at Lowes. They have a 10" sliding Metabo saw. The slide is all in front so no extra back space needed. Bases seems a bit small though. Bosch also produces a great sliding miter saw. The slide in more a folding arm then an actual sliding bar system. Something worth thinking about. I think the Metabo runs around $300 and the Bocsh is $500 - $600 I believe.

Happy to hear your DC is working so well. Keeping the air cleaner is keeping your lungs cleaner. Giving you a clean safer and more healthy place to enjoy your wood working.

What ever it turns out to be it is a gift from Heaven. I'm curious as to what king of wood this is. Keep in mind, that the sun will darken the wood with age. It doesn't have to be in direct sun light either.

Read this yesterday. Quite the setup you have going there Frank. A remote dust collector, has to be a dream to live with out all that noise. Thanks also for the tour, nice looking shop.

Interesting. Never tried beer cans but have done paper in the same way. May have to try this when I get time to play.

Sorry to hear abut your loss. Losing a fur baby hurts really bad and leaves quite a hole in your heart. Gluing up thinner panels can be a challenge if your not careful. Make sure before you start you have all the clamps laid out and handy. I do this a lot as making furniture and larger panels for other work. I have a system that works well for me. Machine the wood to close to its final thickness. When laying the boards out move them around to get the best grain blending look you can. Make sure the sides are flat and parallel to the faces. ( Very Important ) Apply glue to both sides to be joined. When putting them together rub them together, this helps spread the glue more evenly. Start lightly clamping from the center of the panel and work your way to the outside. Repeat until all the clamps a fairly tight and even. Take a couple board with packing tape on one side and put them across the panel's width. Lightly clamp these up, will help keep the boards flat. Do the final tightening on the clamps watching the squeeze out. You want some but not enough tp push most of the glue out. Tamp a damp cloth and clean up as much glue as you can . Let the assembly dry over night before removing the clamps. Clean up the rest of the glue with a cabinet scraper or by sanding. If the panel is to be framed or whatever and needs to thinned just a bit. Cut shallow rabbits around the perimeter to fit. Doing the rabbits gives yo much cleaner edges and joints. I know this is a lot of work, and very well worth the extra effort as the end product is much cleaner in appearance with stronger joints.

I tried the 3M Super 90 Permanent Adhesive. Spray it on the back of the cutting then join the pieces together. Was quite a pain to work with, left strings over the holes and was a real pain to clean up. I used E-6000 quite a bit. Then one hot summer day, I found it would soften and seep out leaving a bit of a mess to clean up. Since I have use Titebond for most of it. If using a felt back ground I put a little extra on carefully. Have not had an issue with that. I don't think there is one "best" answer to this. Everything has it's positives and negatives.

Shop vacs are great except for the noise level. Something with less noise and about the same size as what Kevin mentioned about would be a used Dirt Devil vac. Just some food for thought.

You can also use a well placed long screw driver, wooden dowel rod or the like to accomplish this. I fixed cars for over 45 years and used what I could get in my hand at the time. Another thought, is I had a similar issue with my EX-21. After talking with Ray @ Seyco, he suggested holding one end of a bearing connected part and trying to move the free end. If there was any play then more then likely the bearing and or sleeve was bad. Took a while but did find my issue and the amount of play was very small. Just a thought for you.

There is some information on Mike's Workshop. It gives you both the imperial and metric sizes for the drill bits. As for ordering the bits. Get the dimensions on the blades you use, then compare the size to the chart. It will give you the correct drill bit # to use.