OCtoolguy
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Everything posted by OCtoolguy
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I can not believe I did not do this sooner
OCtoolguy replied to JimErn's topic in General Scroll Sawing
There is one of those near me with 3 cheapo tools attached. The guy wants $500 for it. It's been on C/L for over a year. -
I watched one of his latest videos on CorelDraw. Very well done. Of course, I can't afford that program but just being able to try the 15 day trial was a great experience.
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Welcome to the Village. I hope you stick around. But, to answer your question, we will need a bit more information. Steve does a lot of instructional videos.
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Paul, there is no "correct" amount. Back off both of the clamp screws, stick a thick washer in the slot and tighten the anvil screw up to it until you can just slip the washer back out. Lock the anvil screw down. Do this for both top and bottom clamps. Now, your blades will be in perfect alignment top to bottom. The important thing is that the anvil screws protrude from the clamp body and the same amount top and bottom. Clear as mud?
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I can not believe I did not do this sooner
OCtoolguy replied to JimErn's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Jim, nobody is going to believe your story without pictures. I have no imagination. Gotta have pictures. -
I just bought a used Dremel 9000 Advantage on eBay for $7 plus $10 shipping. I also bought a new in box plunge router attachment for the same tool on C/L for $10. I had never seen/heard of this tool before but just happened upon it. Do any of you folks have one or are you familiar with it? It appears to be a bit more powerful than the standard Dremel tool. I hope to be able to use the flex shaft with it. I haven't found any info on compatibility of the accessories between the two tools. Can anybody give me any info? Thanks in advance for anything offered.
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Would your mind sharing your source and cost? By the way, I see we share the same birthday. I'm just a bit older. 1943.
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Thanks, I look forward to it.
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That would be great. Please keep me updated and if you have a book, I'd like to to get the same book so we would all be on the same page. As the saying goes.
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The pyrography tool that I just bought is a Colwell. They sell them.
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Thanks. I've been there many times. Wonderful store. I'll give them a call.
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Hey Crupeia, since we are pretty close to each other, would you mind sharing your place of choice? I found Cherokee Wood Products but unless I want to drive out there, they would only ship cut down pieces. At least, that's what I think they said. Maybe I'm wrong. I'll check it out. But, I'd like to find out your source too.
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Don, I want to try a wooden gear clock sometime. Will you please take pics and let us see your work as it progresses? I'd love to follow along.
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Jim, I just started signing my work. I bought a used pyrography setup. The first time I used it was after I had applied the finish and I wasn't too happy with the outcome. This time, I signed both pieces I'm working on prior to dipping the oil. Right after I burned my signature, I ran the flat bottom of the work over a piece of 220 paper that I have taped to a corian board. They came out much better this time. So, my answer would be, before you apply the finish.
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What a great find.
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Yes, a Steve Good pattern with the Dave Monk "touch". Beautiful as always.
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Mine is silver/gray. Never seen a black one. Someone must have repainted it at some point. Maybe try a paint stripper. Very strange.
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I posted this on the topic page that Don put up but I guess it won't show up here. So, this is what I wrote: Well, I have spent the afternoon trying make CorelDraw do what Steve does. NO CAN DO! I installed the trial version, couldn't make the contour tool work. I chatted with their support person who swore that the trial version wasn't crippled. But, as far as I can see it is. So, next I tried to figure out Inkscape/Dynamic Offset/XML Editor. I don't have a clue how to use any of that. So, I guess I will have to wait for a tutorial that I can follow. DANG!!
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I feel the same sometimes but most of the time it is just good conversation. Keep in mind that we are not all sitting around a pot bellied stove chatting. The written word is very different than the spoken word. Granted, there are a couple of folks here who come off as contentious and like to promote their way of thinking but generally I find that this is the friendliest forum site that I have ever been a part of. No smartasses that I have found. Try to see through what you are reading. Many points of view on a subject doesn't mean we are arguing. Debating? Maybe. I have been a member for about 4 years. Starting out as a total novice. I asked a lot of questions and got a ton of good useable advice. Stick around and give us a chance. Just figure out who seems to bother you and then put them on "ignore". I am glad you brought the subject up so it could be discussed.
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I would think it would be a digital download almost immediately.
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This sort of reminds me of back when we had ignition points in our car's distributors, they sold points files so that you could put a file between the two points with the spring pressure to hold them together. Then you could slide the file back and forth a few times to not only rough up the points but to align them parallel to each other. you might go to Napa or some other auto parts store and see if you can still buy points files. I was even thinking of buying one just to have around because they are flat on both sides and in alignment. Unlike regular files that are tapered sometimes. Just a thought.
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Hi Scott. I have an EX21 with the Pegas clamps. I use primarily Pegas #5 mgt but have used #3's also. Never had a problem.
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Welcome back Ron. I wondered where you've been hiding. I hope all is better for you. Go make some sawdust now.
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Paul, if I'm understanding correctly, I ask if you have the clamp screw anvils adjusted so that they protrude just a tiny bit proud of the wall of the clamp jaw. The only reason that I can think of for the blade ends to bend is if they are being forced into a recess when tightened. I have mine adjust so that the blades are captured between the opposing faces of the clamp screw and its anvil face and no contact with anything else except the rear wall of the clamp housing. With that in mind, the only reason for the hockey stick bend might be that the clamp screw and anvil faces aren't flat or parallel. Also make sure the tip of the clamp screw is swiveling correctly. Take it out and lube it once in a while.
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I have a stiff blade putty knife that I put a very sharp chisel edge on. It's about 1 1/2" wide and I use it for many things. Including removing clear tape and paper patterns.
