OCtoolguy
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Everything posted by OCtoolguy
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I'm not at all familiar with your new toys Kevin but I ask one question. Are these machines compatible with the sawdust environment of a woodworking shop? I see you have yours set up right by your scroll saw area and to me, it would be better in a "clean room" type of setting. Please, educate me.
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That's what I use. I did upgrade the bulb though to an LED.
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I'm almost sorry I brought up this subject. It's been a whole lotta fun but now it's time to turn to more serious things. Next.....................
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I will have to give it a try on mine. I haven't purchased a light for my Hawk yet.
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Well done Jim. I agree.
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Would that be by weight or diameter? All of my wadcutters are 185 grain. So I guess I need something in the area of 61.67 grains. Now all I have to do is figure out the diameter.
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Close one eye. That will cut the brightness in half.
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Now all I have to do is load .333333 bullets.
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I have a .45 so I will have to do the math.
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That's no fun. But, I will take that into consideration.
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You are correct. But, I think the "dimple" would be easier to deal with than a hole. Thanks for your support Kevin. I'm glad that you get it.
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Very nice JT. I love that ship's wheel. Thanks for the tip.
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I just thought I'd bring attention to Dave Monk being mentioned on Steve Good's website today. I get his email every day and today he highlighted Dave's recent work of art done from a Steve Good pattern. Hat's off to you Dave. Great job on that box. For those of you who might have missed it, here is the link. http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2019/04/dragon-and-sword-box-scroll-saw-pattern.html
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Maybe I'm being simple-minded, but why not make some boxes the size and shape you need out of some wood and hardboard? Something that would hold up to the rough treatment you give them.
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JT, I don't want a hole. That's the "point". Pardon the pun. The retractable point would be just the keep the hole saw on center so that you would end up with a round piece of whatever material you were cutting without a hole in the center. In my mind, I can see it working.
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I give up. I've tried to explain. It would work. Makes no difference. I'm going to make the jig and use it. I'll end up with a whole bunch of 4" coasters that won't need much sanding. But, at some point I will also make a hole saw with a retractable center point. And, Who knows, I might get rich. Lol. Oh, JT, I have a whole bunch of hole saws. Remember, I sold tools for a lot of years. I do know how to use everything I sold. If you can grasp the concept of an automatic center punch, it's not that much of a jump to what I'm talking about. No matter what, I know what I'm envisioning.
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So, how ya gonna replace them when they give out? Order some more of what came in them?
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I put the labels on the inside of the tubes that come with the blades. Anything on the outside makes the tubes fatter and they don't fit as well.
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The one I bought at H/F works great. $40 reg but with the 25% coupon that came this month how can you go wrong? I did spend the $30 to upgrade to an LED bulb. Much brighter, cooler and cheaper to use.
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When you get it, try to clamp it to something other than your saw. Eliminate all the vibration.
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I think mine from H/F is 3 diopter.
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You are missing the point here Jim. I have a lot of scraps that I want to make use of. And each basket that I make generates 16 more of them. I'm thinking that I can offer the basket and a matching set of coasters.
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My thinking was for what I'm thinking of making are coasters. The center section of the cutout is what I would be saving. So, if the center bit would retract, it would leave only a dimple in the center with the rest being the center cutout. I'm having a hard time to put it into words. I have scraps that would allow me to end up with almost a 4 inch diameter coaster so if I had a hole saw of 4 inch with a center bit that would retract, it would keep the saw on center to the point where the spring was overpowered and it would retract up into the mandrel allowing the saw to continue in the kerf that it had created. The result would be a 4 inch round piece that had only a dimple in the center and it could be covered over with cork or incorporated into a pattern of some sort. Clear as mud?
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That's very true but why couldn't the center drill bit retract into the mandrel as the saw progresses through the material. Or that flycutter for that matter. Or am I missing something? I understand what you are saying about wandering but I would think that as the hole saw goes deeper into the material, it will guide itself. Maybe not but just saying.
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No that's not what I was referring to John. I was talking about a retracting center pin on those hole cutters/saws mentioned above. Furthermore, haven't you ever just wanted to make something? I want to make a circle cutting jig just for the fun of it. I realize there are a ton of different ways to do this but since we are using scroll saws, I thought, "why not"?
