OCtoolguy

JT, I don't want a hole. That's the "point". Pardon the pun. The retractable point would be just the keep the hole saw on center so that you would end up with a round piece of whatever material you were cutting without a hole in the center. In my mind, I can see it working.

I give up. I've tried to explain. It would work. Makes no difference. I'm going to make the jig and use it. I'll end up with a whole bunch of 4" coasters that won't need much sanding. But, at some point I will also make a hole saw with a retractable center point. And, Who knows, I might get rich. Lol. Oh, JT, I have a whole bunch of hole saws. Remember, I sold tools for a lot of years. I do know how to use everything I sold. If you can grasp the concept of an automatic center punch, it's not that much of a jump to what I'm talking about. No matter what, I know what I'm envisioning.

So, how ya gonna replace them when they give out? Order some more of what came in them?

I put the labels on the inside of the tubes that come with the blades. Anything on the outside makes the tubes fatter and they don't fit as well.

The one I bought at H/F works great. $40 reg but with the 25% coupon that came this month how can you go wrong? I did spend the $30 to upgrade to an LED bulb. Much brighter, cooler and cheaper to use.

When you get it, try to clamp it to something other than your saw. Eliminate all the vibration.

I think mine from H/F is 3 diopter.

You are missing the point here Jim. I have a lot of scraps that I want to make use of. And each basket that I make generates 16 more of them. I'm thinking that I can offer the basket and a matching set of coasters.

My thinking was for what I'm thinking of making are coasters. The center section of the cutout is what I would be saving. So, if the center bit would retract, it would leave only a dimple in the center with the rest being the center cutout. I'm having a hard time to put it into words. I have scraps that would allow me to end up with almost a 4 inch diameter coaster so if I had a hole saw of 4 inch with a center bit that would retract, it would keep the saw on center to the point where the spring was overpowered and it would retract up into the mandrel allowing the saw to continue in the kerf that it had created. The result would be a 4 inch round piece that had only a dimple in the center and it could be covered over with cork or incorporated into a pattern of some sort. Clear as mud?

That's very true but why couldn't the center drill bit retract into the mandrel as the saw progresses through the material. Or that flycutter for that matter. Or am I missing something? I understand what you are saying about wandering but I would think that as the hole saw goes deeper into the material, it will guide itself. Maybe not but just saying.

No that's not what I was referring to John. I was talking about a retracting center pin on those hole cutters/saws mentioned above. Furthermore, haven't you ever just wanted to make something? I want to make a circle cutting jig just for the fun of it. I realize there are a ton of different ways to do this but since we are using scroll saws, I thought, "why not"?

There must be something wrong with either the thumb screws or the clamp itself. I don't have to tighten mine much at all. In fact, I really force myself to not over-tighten them because on my Dewalt, I had to use a bit more force. Why don't you see if they will let you exchange the clamp set complete for another one?

True but I don't think that would be a huge problem. I'm thinking of a bit more of a pivot point though. Something a bit sharper and with a spring that is tuned just right for that use.

Best of luck with your new saw. I know if it is anything like my EX21, you will love it.

What went wrong with yours? I have the same set bought from the same place and I've had no problems with them but it would be nice to know what to watch for and look for on the swivels.

Thanks Spirithorse. What I have in mind though is something with no center hole. I'm thinking coasters or something along that line. BUT, if I can come up with a pattern that is pleasing to the eye and fun to cut, I can deal with a center hole in some way. I like that flycutter from H/D. After looking at both of these, I got to wondering if anybody has ever come up with a retractable center/pilot. I think it might be handy to have something with a sharp point on it and a spring behind it so that it retracts as you cut the circles.

Thanks to all who have taken the time to answer. After I posted this, I did a youtube search and found just what I was looking for. I have so many of these to cut that I just knew that to do it freehand would take way too long and I know I'd end up with circles that weren't really round. I'm just not that good yet. But, with a jig, I will be able to turn them out very quickly. Maybe someday I'll be able to cut a decent round circle but for right now, NOT! This video shows using a 1/4" bolt/rod for a pivot point. I'll make a pointed one so that I don't have to drill a hole through. But, with the right pattern, I could incorporate that hole into it.

I know that I recall this subject being discussed but I can't seem to find it. When I make the baskets that have become my favorite project, I end up with a lot of small pieces that are cut from the inside of the patterns. They are just the right size to make coasters out of. Or some other small round object. My question is, have any of your folks had the occasion to fabricate a circle cutting jig? I am going to make a wood table top for one of my saws and try to incorporate a way to do this. On my bandsaw, I have made a jig but the table on it has a miter guide slot. Anyway, if anybody had an idea, please post it or PM me with your ideas. Thanks.

I watched it on my phone while in the SSV app. Not through FB.

Great video and an even better job of cutting. I wish I was as proficient as you. I still have trouble in tight spots.

Paul, I got the feeling that maybe that refund they sent me was the commission off of your purchase. LOL! As to the piece that was cracked, you might just shoot Chris an email to tell him what happened. Possibly in shipping. That way he might be able to change his shipping method. Anyway, I'll just bet if you do, you'll maybe get another piece sent to you. On the last order that I sent them, I purchased all 6 species in 60" pieces (5 footers). In the notes area, I asked that they if they were to cut the boards down in length that they not to cut them into pieces that couldn't be divided by 10" as I needed that length for my projects. Well, the guys out in the yard were confused and came to Chris asking what to do. He made the decision to cut everything down to 12" lengths in order to give me some leeway. So, when I got the order, I was somewhat disappointed but figured that it was my cryptic request. So, I called Chris to find out how I should have ordered it so as not to have that happen in the future. He shouldered the blame saying that it was his decision. I told him not to worry that it would be ok and next time I would call the order in so as to not have any misunderstandings in the future. He apologized all over the place but I told him not to worry. Two days later, I get a UPS shipment that contained 6 12" pieces of wood. All 6 species that I had ordered. He wanted to make up for his mistake. What a stand up guy. Cherokee Wood Products will be getting all of my wood business in the future. He also told me to let you folks know that they have many other types of wood to offer but when he put the website together, (he did it himself) he got way behind and didn't get it all finished. So, if you don't see what you want, give him a call or shoot them an email and inquire about what you want. They are a first class business and are catering to the scroll saw/hobby community. I can't say enough good about them and the service they are providing here on the West coast.

Thanks David. You went above and beyond.

Paul, I wrote a lengthy reply to your comment above on my phone this morning. I clicked on the "save" button and it appeared to have taken it. But, I don't see it here. I have no idea what went wrong but I'll give it some time to show up. If it doesn't, I'll try to recall what I wrote.

David, there is a fix for that arm lift problem if your saw is out of warranty. Somebody here on the Village made a lot changes to his Hegner. It's a simple matter of removing that cast iron bump stop or altering the size of it. Basically you could just remove part of it and allow the arm to go up a lot more.

Mine too.