OCtoolguy
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Everything posted by OCtoolguy
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You're so right JT. I'd like to see a similar video on the EX saws. I'm going to jump into mine one of these days just to do the same type of maintenance. They are constructed just enough different that it might be nice to watch a video on disassembly and re-assembly.
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It is so nice to see a member of the female gender who is not afraid to get her hands dirty and to dive into fixing mechanical things. Congrats on your excellent project.
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I want to buy some c/a glue and activator but this time, I want to get some advice so I don't buy the wrong stuff. In the past, I have bought "super glue" and used it once then the next time I went to use it, it had dried up or the spout was glued shut or whatever. I have never used the activator/accelerator. So, with that said, what brand, type or advice can you give me? Is there any way to keep the glue from drying up or closing the spout on the bottle? I have a bottle of Gorilla super glue that is more of a gel and it is very slow in setting up. Once it does though, it's pretty stout. And so far, it hasn't dried up. I don't know if it would work with an accelerator or not. Thanks for your help and advice,
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Probably similar to the spring retainer clip on the lower blade clamp on the Hegner. Something that could be easily upgraded by Hawk.
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I feel pretty strongly that your knocking noise is from the tension rod assembly. You said you did the file trick on the rod adjuster cover. You may not have taken it down enough. And, the tension rod itself may still be rattling. On my saw, the knocking/rattling sound was pretty much throughout the entire speed range but got worse as I increased the speed. I did all the same stuff that you have done and I even experimented with the rod by turning it the other way until it knocked. I then backed it off until it stopped. I filed quite a bit off the cover too. I think your problem is something not too serious but I would still strongly recommend that you take it all apart and clean and grease all the bearings and sleeves. If I lived close enough to you, I'd be happy to help you.
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Something has occurred to me before and it just happened again. When we refer to the front or the back of the saw, I take it to mean that the front of the saw is the part where we do the cutting and the rear of the saw is the opposite end. Is that the correct thinking?
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I would like to know what the symptoms are like so I know what to look for. At this point, I don't have any pain but I don't want to either so it might be nice to know what to look for.
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I'm not sure I know what you are referring to JT. Plastic blade holders?
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Rolf, would you do a critique on the Kreg fence once you've had it a while? I have looked at it too but it's expensive and I don't want to make a mistake.
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Potential New Puzzle Zombie... came to my doorstep...
OCtoolguy replied to Iguanadon's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Fox Chapel forum, NCWW? What am I missing? I do visit the SSWC forum. Is that the Fox Chapel? I also check out Steve Good's forum but there isn't much action there. -
The more I hear you guys all praising the Hawk, the more it makes me want one. I'm going to scour the c/l ads until I find a good deal on one. I realize that there have been motor problems over the years and each time I have sent the serial number to Bushton they have answered back quickly to inform me whether or not it was one to watch out for. I kind of know which ones to watch for and the blade mechanism to get. I really don't want to buy an old saw and have to update it.
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But what Jim? I've ordered from them and the service was spectacular. I ordered one of their scrap/cutoff boxes. I asked nicely if they would tag the wood so I could identify what they sent. Each piece had a nice tag on it and the wood was all nice, clean and very useable. I like Ocooch.
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Thanks for that link JT. I'm gonna order some.
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I had a similar knocking noise on my used Dewalt too. I found a very loose bolt at the main connecting rod inside the saw. The drive rod was good and snug on the motor shaft but at the other end where it connects to the vertical drive arm, that bolt was loose. And, it had been replaced at some point with the wrong bolt. Once that was fixed the saw became very quiet. I did the full service like shown in the 4 part video that Gwinnett/Bob Brokaw produced. That video was fantastic. I ended up downloading all 4 parts and creating a movie with them. I refer back to it every once in a while. In my estimation, once tuned properly, the Dewalt is one of the best saws on the market. Especially for the price.
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I have only ordered one time from Bear. They backordered one size of blades that I ordered but shipped the remainder. It took the better part of 3 weeks to get the order. I won't be ordering from them again unless they have some kind of sale or something to lure me back. I ordered from DnD and my blades were here if 4 days. Mike's is very fast too. Oh well, at least we have choices. Not like Venezuela.
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Dave, where did you purchase it? With that many problems, I might be tempted to return it and ask for another saw. If that is an option that is. Other than that, there is a logical answer to each of your problems. Thinking of all of them at once can be overwhelming. The arm raising and lowering is not a problem that I have had as I bought my say used. I did have to do some tweaking on the centering of the blade and also on the front to rear aggresiveness. That can be fixed by adjusting the motor as mentioned in other posts. You might do some lubing with dri-lube on the arm back at the pivot point. And as Kevin said, the best thing that you can do is to add the Pegas blade clamp set. That in itself will help immensely with any vibration problems. Good luck in your tuning and if you want to communicate directly with me, send me a PM. We can work out most everything I'm sure.
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Not a bit Les. I sit with my face pretty close even with the magnifier. That's why I started wearing a dust mask, I found that after a couple of hours of cutting, it truly effected my breathing and my nose got caked with the fine dust. I have a deviated septum, (crooked nose) so one nostril is almost always closed. The other one gets really messed up with the dust.
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I agree. I have those H/F piece - together mats in my little shop and when I put them under my saw, it really took the vibration out of it.
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I sit on an old office chair that is at its max height. My saw has a slight tilt to it so when I'm sitting at it, my elbows are below the table and my wrists are on the table. I use a lighted magnifier. I really try hard to remind myself to relax and move around a bit when cutting. So far, everything seems to be aligned about right.
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Sucks having to go back to work. Period!
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Right now, I must agree with you Paul. My biggest concern is with the cost of materials. The cost of the materials is what holds me back on a lot of projects. I'm sort of a tightwad in that living on a fixed income doesn't always leave a lot of loose change to buy things for my hobby. There has been a slowdown in my handyman jobs here for a while so I have to pick and choose what I can make with what I have on hand.
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I got an advertisement from Woodcraft store today and they are selling what I think is the CNC machine like yours on a $500 discount. It sure sounds like the one you have ordered. If you want, I can scan and send you the ad.
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As a matter of curiosity, how does your laser machine differ from the one in this video? Price/power/capability etc. Thanks Kevin. I knew there had to be a better way.
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Thanks Kevin. I knew there had to be a better way.
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Kevin, I just went to check out the youtube link. It seems he has a bazillion videos. Are they all laser-related or if not, how do you sort out the ones that would be on laser machines? I know nothing so I don't have a clue what videos are pertinent.
