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OCtoolguy

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Everything posted by OCtoolguy

  1. OCtoolguy
    HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO ALL OF MY WONDERFUL FRIENDS HERE ON SCROLL SAW VILLAGE. HAVE A WONDERFUL DAY!
  2. OCtoolguy
    Yes, it is a color laser. Uses 4 toner cartridges. They aren't cheap but after buying ink and having it either dry up or the cartridge goes bad or the nozzles clog up, I had had it. Finally bit the bullet. I got it on Amazon for a couple hundred dollars. Check out Brother MFC-9130CW. I'm really happy with it. The wifi works great too.
  3. OCtoolguy
    That's my problem too Kevin. If I do something enough times, it will eventually register in the gray matter between my ears. I'm having so much fun learning to scroll with all of the ins and outs of the hobby that it's hard to find time to learn the software. If I lived where it was a very hot or cold climate and just didn't feel like going out to the shop, I'd probably learn how all this stuff works. I already spend waaaay too much time on the computer. As much as I love this forum, it has become a bain to my scrolling for that reason. Oh well, a person should never stop learning so here I sit.
  4. OCtoolguy
    I like things with some contrast so if it were me, I might go with maple base and whatever dowel rod you have if they are light wood.
  5. OCtoolguy
    I broke down and bought a Brother laser and I love it. No more ink cartridges for me.
  6. OCtoolguy
    To my old eyes, this would be very hard to cut. Now, with a bright white background, I would be able to distinguish the red lines a lot easier.
  7. OCtoolguy
    I will have to do the same. I just never remember at the time that all these things are possible. Thanks for the suggestion.
  8. OCtoolguy
    I have seen that feature in Inkscape, Paint, and Gimp but how do you fill only the areas that you want to be filled? I still haven't learned these programs well enough to be able to use them effectively. I appreciate your patience with my slow learning curve.
  9. OCtoolguy
    Kevin, I know that with my small shop this may not mean anything to you but the other day, I was out in my shop. I wear shorts and tee shirts most of the time and it was a mildly chilly day so I used my little Honeywell electric heater to keep the shop warm. I had on a long-sleeved flannel shirt and within a half hour, I had to turn the heater off and take off my shirt. And my shop has no insulation and has many air leaks. I guess what I'm saying is, a small electric heater does just fine if it isn't too cold outdoors and you can keep the heat inside. If you decide to partition your shop into a smaller area, you should be able to do what I am doing but maybe a bigger unit than the tiny one I have. I might add that in our MILD climate, I very seldom have to operate my heater. I am in much greater need of an A/C unit during the summers. Not because of the heat but because of the humidity. That is not going to happen though.
  10. OCtoolguy
    You told me enough that I can figure it out. I should have asked you what software you were using but you answered it right off. I have Gimp but it is still a very big cloud for me. I know that someday I will have to give it a try but right now, I'm still trying to learn Inkscape and it is far easier. I think.
  11. OCtoolguy
    I have noticed a couple of times lately where we were discussing temps on our shops and folks are using the asterisk for a degree symbol. I got to wondering how to do it. This is what I found out.
  12. OCtoolguy
    I got to thinking about this Brad and it might be easier to practice using some thin wood. Maybe a couple pieces of BB plywood or something like that. Just to get the idea fixed in your mind. I know, at least I think I know, the thinner the wood, the more table angle you need. So with that said, if you can get the idea worked out then it's just a matter of figuring out what angle you will need for 1/2". I'm thinking something in the area of 2 degrees.
  13. OCtoolguy
    Kevin, how do you do a "bucket fill"?
  14. OCtoolguy
    I must be dense. I don't get the advantage of doing it that way. I have always either spread the glue with a glue brush or applied glue to one side and then rubbed the second piece around until it too is covered. I'll have to give this a try to see what you'all are talking about.
  15. OCtoolguy
    Brad, looking at it from the marquetry side of things, you'll get the best fit if you stack cut the pattern. The bottom piece will be the waste side and the top piece should slide right down into the lower piece. For practice, just take a couple of pieces of scrap, tape them together and cut out a circle or a square or ???? It might take a couple of test cuts to determine the correct angle. Somewhere I saw a formula for that but I can't remember where. A lot of folks who do this often just make a couple of angled blocks and mark them for future table adjustments.
  16. OCtoolguy
    So sorry for her loss. Too sad.
  17. OCtoolguy
    Smoley Hokes! You guys are serious scrollers. I have turned mine on whenever I'm in the shop just for the sake of running it. Even when not making any dust, I figure that it is still doing something. But, it still looks new. My shop does appear to be staying a bit cleaner though. So far, I like it.
  18. OCtoolguy
    Thanks for the info. I'm glad you added the part about having your own iron. I can't imagine the Hell I'd have to pay if I took my wife's favorite tool out to my shop.
  19. OCtoolguy
    Thanks for the tip. We have a wonderful library here but with a city of over 200k people, it's difficult to do anything. I love libraries that aren't crowded or noisy. I yearn for a small town somewhere. Our local library is huge with a theater and a very big genealogy section so it is always a nightmare just to find a parking spot.
  20. OCtoolguy
    I must have missed that little tidbit of advice. Can you fill in the blanks so I understand what you mean?
  21. OCtoolguy
    Dave, my only advice would be.....there is no such thing as overkill.
  22. OCtoolguy
    I have posted about this book before here on SSV but if you are truly interested in double bevel cutting, the best book on the subject is this one. https://www.amazon.com/Art-Marquetry-Schiffer-Book-Woodworkers/dp/076430237X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542663174&sr=8-1&keywords=the+art+of+marquetry $14.99 on Amazon.
  23. OCtoolguy
    I did a Google image search and found this one that I think would make a great scroll saw pattern.
  24. OCtoolguy
    Now, why didn't I think of that? I bought the Jim Dandy lifter and so far it has worked great but I can see that yours is going to be just as good. Or better because it costs almost nothing.
  25. OCtoolguy
    Another thing to take into consideration is where you drill your entry holes. You have to drill next to the cut line at the same angle as you are going to be cutting so that the drill bit enters in the waste area and comes out on the waste area of the lower piece. Otherwise your drill hole will be visible. There are videos on youtube on the subject of double bevel scrolling. I took a marquetry class or I wouldn't know what I was talking about. Really! LOL.
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