OCtoolguy

Thanks again, J.T. Knowing what I now know, I'll try to do things differently in the future. Next time around, I may try shooting the padauk with a very light coat of shellac and lightly sanding the areas that will have glue applied. Something on that order anyway. For now, I contacted Carole Rothman who gave me the pattern and asked her if she had the problem. She answered that "yes, I did and used denatured alcohol to remove the shellac and then sand out the problem areas". So, it's off to buy some denatured alcohol. It's probably illegal to own here in the "People's Republic of Orange County" but I'll keep my fingers crossed. I do have some 92% isopropyl alcohol so I might give that a try. From what I read, there is not that much difference.

This video by Steve Good will answer so many of the basic questions that we get on a daily basis here at The Village. If it can be referred to by all those who are just starting out, it will answer most all of their questions regarding saws.

Thanks JT but this project would not be doable as you suggest. It had to be totally glued up before any cutting began.

It will be a long time before I use it again.

It doesn't seem to be just the end grain. I ran into the same problem on another project and I was using padauk and poplar. What I ended up doing on that one was to put the whole project into a pan of warm water and softening the glue so I could take it all apart. I don't remember what I did after that but I reassembled it and re-sanded the whole thing and it came out sort of pinkish. My wife liked it so it is sitting on our kitchen counter with candy in it. I can't do that this time. I'm going to try sanding it out as best I can but not sure how it's going to come out. I'm going to contact Carole Rothman and see if she had the same problem.

Paul, there is nothing to be afraid of. That saw looks like it has been taken care of and used gently. If you want a Hawk, go buy it. I'm waiting for the right deal to come along on a 20 inch. When it does, it'll be mine and one of the Ex's will find a new home. At that point, I will own the 3 best saws made.

I have had 2 occasions to use padauk and on both of them, I have had problems with what I'll call bleed from the sanding dust. I'm making a bowl with a combination of padauk, cherry veneer and hard maple. All went well until I sanded the inside and outside of the bowl to get it ready for finish. I blew it off really well with a compressor and then wiped it down. I did not see any sanding dust accumulation, but after shooting it with a first coat of Zinnser's shellac, I have many spots where it seems that the padauk has bled onto the maple. I'm trying to sand them out but it may be a fruitless attempt. So, I ask those of you more learned folks, how do you prevent this from happening?

Well, it's just like the one I bought and sold only because it was too big. I see the two small holes on the upper are so it uses the latest clamps. It has the front tension release. Without looking under it to see what motor it has, I don't think it has the Fasco motor that was the one that had some problems. Not sure how many but they got a bad reputation from somewhere. The other thing to look at is at the rear of the saw where the V-groove is and the small V cam fits into the notch. It appears to be a great saw. I bought mine, with 20 hours on it, for $250 but I live in an area where used stuff is abundant. I could never give the asking price for anything unless I really wanted it and just HAD to have it. If you REALLY want it, offer $400 and see what happens. Me, I'd probably start at around $300, but that's just me. Check it out. It appears to be a nice saw. Also, be sure to get as much of the stuff that came with it as possible. The manual, and all the blade clamps and anything else that comes to mind. It seems like some or most of these saws came with a foot switch and some had mag/lights. After taking another look at it, the little V-cam and V-notch look really good and sharp.

As to parts, if there is nothing "broken" in the mainframe or other moving parts, and it's only worn bearings, you should have no problem finding parts. Now, if the bearing sleeves are badly worn, that could pose a problem. You will know once you get it apart and can inspect all the pieces and parts. Please do keep up updated as you move along and even still pics are better than none. Once I found out about downloading the video files, they played fine. Good luck on your journey, both with the saw and with scrolling in general. It's a great hobby and you found the right place to get knowledge.

Thanks Paul. I took your lead and was able to see the one clip above. It looks like some worn out bearings for sure. But, well worth saving that fine old saw.

I hope you took the time to add some synthetic grease to the bearings of the new assembly.

Start by removing the table so you can see everything from above. Then print off a copy of the parts breakdowns and have them close at hand. I don't think it will be too hard to figure it out. Another thing, if it still runs at all, try to isolate where the sound is coming from. Use a mechanics stethoscope if you have one or a wooden dowel held to the saw in different places and softly put up to your ear. The sound will transmit. A rubber hose or tube will work too. Do the arms still go up and down? How are you trying to add the video files. If you have them saved to your computer, it's just a matter of adding them right down at the bottom where it says "choose files". They will attach to your post.

Pets don't turn on you when they get to be teens. LOL.

And another entrepreneur is born.

Or they bought a tv.

And another runs a sawmill. A very eclectic family.

"pots" as in pots & pans.

Why do I think you are referring to pans in your kitchen cupboard?

I stropped a pocket knife once with a piece of notebook paper to a mirror finish.

I tried to study the drawing and it looks like you have to disassemble everything in order to take it apart. A piece at a time. I'd like to be able to see it in person. Can you take some good pics of it from all sides? It may be as simple as the motor shaft coming loose from the driven piece it connects to. There are two allen screws that clamp the mechanism to the motor's shaft. There are 2 holes on the top that give you access to those two screws. The instructions say to install the motor you have to insert the shaft into the driven shaft and before locking those 2 screws down to insert and install the 4 bolts that hold the motor to the frame. Then tighten the 2 screws. Read all the instructions and they may give you some idea of how to dismantle the rest of it.

Ok, I found an owner's manual and downloaded it. Once you get it downloaded, take a good look at how the saw works. There many places that it could have broken but I'd start with the motor first. Does it still run? You should be able to see by these pics how it goes together and from that you will be able to take it apart. The problem you will run into is if it's more than a bearing or bolt, you may not be able to find parts for it. Try contacting Ray Seymour at Seyco.com and see if he can help you. He's the guru for Excalibur saws but not sure about the old ones. Excalibur-24-Precision-Saw-Operating-and-Maintenance-Instructions_copy.pdf

I just tried to watch your video clips and one of them is of a Briggs and Stratton engine. The other one is of nothing. And I tried to listen to you audio files but was not about to hear anything meaningful. But, from what you have said so far, it sounds like you broke a bolt that goes through one of the inner drive bearings or the crankshaft/bell crank itself. You should be able to remove the side cover on one side and see something on the inside. I'm not sure what the EX24 looks like but if is anything like a 21 that's how they are. I'll try to find a picture of one.

Hello from sunny Southern California, U.S.A. You have been given some very good information in all of the above. I've got two early Excaliburs prior to their selling out to mainland China. Those saws are not what you want. My Excaliburs are great saws. I also have a Hegner and it is bulletproof. I'm not sure if you have much of a used market over there but do some shopping around and you might find a good used saw that someone got frustrated and is selling it rather than learning how to use it. Again, welcome to the scroll Saw Village. We are a friendly group no matter which saw you choose. Just have fun! That's what it is all about.

Shaft size, length and ohm rating is about all you need. Oh, and how the knob attaches. Push on or set screw on flat side of shaft. You might see if it would be possible to "seal" it in some way.