OCtoolguy

That looks very close Don. Thanks.

I've been trying to find one that has the letter "k" as in my picture. That and the size/length of some of the serifs as the capital T seems to have longer serifs. I've been through all the fonts I have but so far no luck. I'll see if I can find the one you mentioned Don.

I've been trying to figure it out on my own and I'm using Century751 SeBd BT. It's very close but not quite. I have done the "kerning" thing by using the alt key and the arrow keys but I can't get just the right look. I'll try the one suggested above. Thanks to all.

I tried Harbor Freight, Home Depot & Lowes. No luck. Maybe Menards.

Well, none of those seem to work. Or I didn't find one that would work with my picture.

You'd certainly think so. There's an app for just about everything else.

I went to a flea market Sunday and saw a plaque that I liked. I want to make one like it but not sure what font to use. I don't have enough life left to wade through all the available fonts. Is there an easy way? This is the plaque.

Thanks but I can't get them to open.

YAY for Brenda. That's great to hear. Anytime you can WIN is a good thing.

I get the feeling that you are referring to tension and not blade clamping? If so, what Roberta and Kevin have suggested would make the most sense. What you need is for all the tension adjustment to be in the most relaxed position so that when you insert a new blade and get both ends clamped in place, then you apply the tension by moving the slider until it feels like you have it tensioned correctly. A ping of the blade will tell you. Now, if you have already done that, you may have damaged the tensioning mechanism or knocked something out of whack which might necessitate the disassembling of the saw. There is a rod that connects from the slider lever clear back to the rear of the upper arm and moves a wedge and that in turn forces the upper are to rise and apply the tension to the blade. There is a very good set of videos on Youtube that shows how to do the disassembly of a Dewalt and since the saws are so similar, I'd think that you could dope your way through it. Good luck and do keep us all informed of your progress and just what you find out. And also, WELCOME to the Village.

Paul, I bought that same one. I have a 2.5 gal compressor that was given to me. I turned the regulator down to 20 psi and hooked up the air brush. It blew air as it should. You regulate the paint by turning the brass not that is on the jar top. Not the one on the airbrush. Mine blows air just fine and it takes quite a while before the compressor kicks in to replenish the tank. An airbrush compressor has no tank generally so I think your compressor should work fine. You have a blockage somewhere. I upgraded the air hose by buying a package at H/F that had the hose and also an air fitting that I needed to adapt to the quick disconnect on the compressor. I also purchased from Amazon another package of fittings that gave me a quick connect to the airbrush. These are the two things that I bought extra. Harbor Freight hose and fitting: https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-x-10-ft-braided-nylon-airbrush-hose-69578.html Amazon air fitting set: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VDSKGS2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Were you getting air out of the hose without the airbrush connected? If so that narrows it to a defective air brush.

Welcome from So. Cal. I too love compound 3-D cuts. Your pics are great and I'd love to get your plans.

A big welcome from sunny Southern California. You found the best scroll saw group out there.

Very nice. Your vet should love it.

No clamps needed.

Paul, it's a perfect fit both top & bottom.

Sounds like it's time to fix it. The easy way is to just wrap a heavy rubber band around the shaft just under the knob, twist it a couple of times and then stretch it down to the right side and find something to hook it to. That'll keep it from turning. Not a fix but sort of. The best way of course requires a tear down. Sounds like it has gotten really loose. Strange. You might give Denny a call and see if Pegas has gotten any feedback on the problem and maybe a fix from them. A re-engineered part or something. I doubt they want negative feedback on their saw.

Mine both do the same thing so I painted a white stripe on the knob and every once in a while I check it. It usually moves and an inch every couple of hours. That small amount doesn't equate to much arm movement. I also cut a wood block that is the correct clearance at both front and back of the arm for a quick check.

Well, you can do the review. We'll all be waiting. At this point, I don't need another vac but if my Ridgid ever dies, I'll be thinking about that one. I use the Ridgid out on my driveway primarily for my table saw and router table. It's big and noisy. I have a Dusttopper hooked to it also. The Fein in my shop has a DD on it and both of my Excaliburs have onboard systems running the little Metrovac500's and a mini-cyclone in a 3 lb. coffee can. They can be rolled anywhere and have dust control on them. I'm going to do the same thing to my Hegner but I'll use an Oreck handheld on it.

Wow! That looks like a very nice unit. I can see why you might want one. I wonder how it compares to the Festool noise-wise. Sure seems quiet.

I just did a search for the vac you are asking about but don't find it. Can you give us a model number. There are many in that price range but none say "2 stage".

I replaced 2 of them using CV boots. Worked great. Just get the measurements at top and bottom and go looking. I can't recall what I used. I'll do some research and try to find my Amazon purchase. BRB. Here ya go. Kit Empi 86-2340D from Amazon was under $20.

Be aware that that nut shown is a left hand thread.

I now understand your motivation.