OCtoolguy

Kev, I check my upper arm quite often to make sure it hasn't moved. So yes, it's level. And I looked at the bottom clamp and there is plenty of blade still to be clamped.

Denny, I place the top of the blade even with the top edge of the red clamp body. I then feed the blade down through the table to the lower chuck and tighten the clamp. Then I go back to the top and loosen it , oull down on the mechanism to remove any slack and re-tighten. Seems to be working as I have no slippage or breakage. I also wipe the oil off the blades before insertion.

I have the same saw but it has become too big & heavy for my needs.

I was cutting some 3/4" walnut this afternoon and after reading your post, I took notice of how my cuts were coming out and it's true. I was getting some very minor fuzzies too. But, not bad enough that I ever felt there was a problem. After I got done with the cutting I got out my spindle sander and did a bit of shaping and that took care of what fuzzies I had.

I'm no expert but the idea of skip tooth blades, as far as I know is just to help clear the dust out of the kerf. The reverse teeth should be doing their job of leaving a clean cut on the underside. JMHO. Since the reverse teeth only go up about 3/4" and you are cutting that thickness you might be missing out on the effect. Try mounting your blades up as high as possible so that you are assured of getting some contact with the reverse teeth.

Speaking of unsafe jobs brought me back to about 67 when I was a heavy line mechanic in a Buick agency. Some clown brought in a 67 Buick Riviera that he had cobbled together out of at least 2 wrecked cars. When I raised it up on the rack I right away saw where he had joined two cars together. The frames were chewing gum welded together right in the middle of the car. A good jolt of any kind would have caused the car to split in two. I showed it to my service manager and he told me to stop working on it and he called the California Highway Patrol. They sent an inspector out and he immediately impounded the car. I have no idea what ever happened to the customer but that car never saw another highway mile. it really makes one wonder how many of those are out there at any given point in time.

Dan, I tried it but wouldn't work with my picture. Thanks.

If I recall correctly, once you have installed a font onto your computer, just open Inkscape and it will automatically find the new font and make it available. If you have Inkscape open when you install the font, you must close out Inkscape and reopen it.

Excellent restoration. Thanks for showing it and also for saving it from the scrap heap. I love old stuff. Probably because I am old stuff.

Yes, that looks very close. Thanks.

Still won't open for me.

That looks very close Don. Thanks.

I've been trying to find one that has the letter "k" as in my picture. That and the size/length of some of the serifs as the capital T seems to have longer serifs. I've been through all the fonts I have but so far no luck. I'll see if I can find the one you mentioned Don.

I've been trying to figure it out on my own and I'm using Century751 SeBd BT. It's very close but not quite. I have done the "kerning" thing by using the alt key and the arrow keys but I can't get just the right look. I'll try the one suggested above. Thanks to all.

I tried Harbor Freight, Home Depot & Lowes. No luck. Maybe Menards.

Well, none of those seem to work. Or I didn't find one that would work with my picture.

You'd certainly think so. There's an app for just about everything else.

I went to a flea market Sunday and saw a plaque that I liked. I want to make one like it but not sure what font to use. I don't have enough life left to wade through all the available fonts. Is there an easy way? This is the plaque.

Thanks but I can't get them to open.

YAY for Brenda. That's great to hear. Anytime you can WIN is a good thing.

I get the feeling that you are referring to tension and not blade clamping? If so, what Roberta and Kevin have suggested would make the most sense. What you need is for all the tension adjustment to be in the most relaxed position so that when you insert a new blade and get both ends clamped in place, then you apply the tension by moving the slider until it feels like you have it tensioned correctly. A ping of the blade will tell you. Now, if you have already done that, you may have damaged the tensioning mechanism or knocked something out of whack which might necessitate the disassembling of the saw. There is a rod that connects from the slider lever clear back to the rear of the upper arm and moves a wedge and that in turn forces the upper are to rise and apply the tension to the blade. There is a very good set of videos on Youtube that shows how to do the disassembly of a Dewalt and since the saws are so similar, I'd think that you could dope your way through it. Good luck and do keep us all informed of your progress and just what you find out. And also, WELCOME to the Village.

Paul, I bought that same one. I have a 2.5 gal compressor that was given to me. I turned the regulator down to 20 psi and hooked up the air brush. It blew air as it should. You regulate the paint by turning the brass not that is on the jar top. Not the one on the airbrush. Mine blows air just fine and it takes quite a while before the compressor kicks in to replenish the tank. An airbrush compressor has no tank generally so I think your compressor should work fine. You have a blockage somewhere. I upgraded the air hose by buying a package at H/F that had the hose and also an air fitting that I needed to adapt to the quick disconnect on the compressor. I also purchased from Amazon another package of fittings that gave me a quick connect to the airbrush. These are the two things that I bought extra. Harbor Freight hose and fitting: https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-x-10-ft-braided-nylon-airbrush-hose-69578.html Amazon air fitting set: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VDSKGS2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Were you getting air out of the hose without the airbrush connected? If so that narrows it to a defective air brush.

Welcome from So. Cal. I too love compound 3-D cuts. Your pics are great and I'd love to get your plans.

A big welcome from sunny Southern California. You found the best scroll saw group out there.