OCtoolguy
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Everything posted by OCtoolguy
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This is still my favorite piece of wood. Somebody here on SSV posted this pic a while back. I wish it was mine.
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Dave, you really are a wood artist. Your work is A-1.
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I know you replaced the brushes but did you clean up the armature and check it out with an ohm meter for possible shorts.
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I thought the same. I've got a used Delta 14" that does what I need.
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I too am a wood hoarder but mostly used wood from wherever I find it. That is a nice piece of wood.
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Kevin, after reading many posts by others, I was realizing that many folks use the tiny blades. Now, maybe it's because they do primarily fretwork. I'm not a fretwork person but for what I'm making right now, I have to do some of it so I thought it might behoove me to give it a try. I think I will try what you say and go back to either a #5 or drop down to a #3. I've never messed around with the knob before and had no problem with the #5's. I was just wondering if it was something I was doing wrong. Now, I see that it is more of an issue with not knowing what I was doing and something that will require a bit more finesse when mounting smaller blades. I've always tried to take the slack out of the mechanism because this is usually quite a bit. But now, I know not to do that on the smaller blades. Onward and upward.
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Let me clarify. I'm trying to use Pegas 2/0 and/or #1 mgt blades. Cutting 1/8" BB stacked 4 high. I know that the black knob is meant for leveling the upper arm and is not a tension adjuster. BUT, there is no other way to adjust the tension on these saws. I am using the Pegas clamps with the white flip lever. I bottom feed. I've never heard of leaving "slack" in the blade when mounting it. My method up til now has been to mount the bottom clamp first, feed the blade through the drill hole, and then mount the top clamp while pulling down on the upper arm to remove any "play" in the mechanism. Then flip the lever. So if I'm reading all the replies correctly, I'm doing it wrong by removing the slack in the mechanism causing too much tension. I will take all this advice and try to change my method. After re-leveling the upper arm. I appreciate all the help folks. I guess the wandering blade is caused more by operator error than tension.
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Well, as far as I'm concerned, I'd love to be able to do what you have done. Especially as you did on the tiger picture.
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And I thought I had this thing figured out. Well it seems I don't. I have, up to this point, pretty much used Pegas #5MGT blades for most everything but I decided to branch out a bit and try some smaller blades. So, I dropped down to a #1 and #2/0. My problem is in tensioning. I can't seem to find that sweet spot with the tension on my Ex 16. I first tried it at the same point on the big black knob that I use for the #5. Well that proved to be way too tight so I backed off. Way off. Almost a full turn off. Once I got to a point where I wasn't snapping the blades upon applying the tension lever, they become "un-steerable". Lots of wandering. So, I tried tightening back up just a smidge. Back to breaking the blades. So, I guess I need some help from those of you who pretty much always use those tiny blades. How do you keep from breaking them? I'd like to hear from folks who have either a Pegas, Seyco, Excalibur or similar types of saws so we are talking oranges to orange. But any advise would be greatly appreciated.
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Beautiful work Frank. As always. You should think about taking up artistic painting. I think you'd do well.
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Beautiful work. You outdid yourself. I have something like that in my future.
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And so glad you did.
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The H/F that I bought has a glass lens and I'm not sure what the magnification is but it works fine for me. My biggest complaint is having to wipe the sawdust off of it every once in a while.
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What do you call a grouping of Snowmen???
OCtoolguy replied to barb.j.enders's topic in Bragging Rights
Very nice work. I envy folks who have an artistic bent. I have none and must copy others work. -
Welcome to the SSV. It's the best scrollsaw site on the web. Lots of great folks and tons of knowledge and experience here. I found it about 8 years ago when I was a scroll newbie.
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Very nice work. I really like this one.
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I guess it's time for me to make something for pushing and holding the wood as it crosses my table saw. I've come too close once or twice. I still have all my digits and want to keep them.
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What blade are you using for tight turns like those?
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Harbor Freight. I bought mine there and then upgraded the bulb to LED. By he time I got done I have about $75 in it. It works well for me and I wear progressive lenses.
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I took enough material off that it moved the "arch" back and gone in about the first 3/8-1/2 inch. Quite a bit.
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I'm not sure why this old post is getting all the activity. Someone must have resurrected it.
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Well, I'd go back to basics. Make sure the saw is bolted down SOLID. Then get a stethoscope type of device. I used to sell an automotive type for about $10. Bring the saw up to speed where noise is most prominent and try to locate the area of noise. As for what you have done so far, when I did mine I had to grind quite a bit off the bottom of the cover. If that is still the problem there should be a mark where the drive link is hitting the cover. Try taking the cover off and coloring the underside with felt marker similar. Make sure that is not still the problem. Keep at it. You'll get it.
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People are strange. No doubt about it.
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There's a guy near me who has one of those with 3 tools bolted to it. He's been trying to sell it for a couple of years at $500. No luck. If I had the space for it, I'd try to make him an offer. But, not gonna happen. Offer it up for free and save yourself a trip to the dump. Someone will always take something for free. Actually that reminds me of a joke. There was a guy who had an appliance of some sort that he put out by the street and offered it up for free. But no takers. So, he put a "for sale" sign on it and asked $100. It disappeared that afternoon.
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It's not my pattern but I have no idea who created it either. I found it somewhere. Maybe Lumber Jocks or ??? Let me figure out where it's at on my PC and I'll send it to you in a PM.
