OCtoolguy

The main thing with the Quik clamp is it's tightened in the upper holder so that it can't rock. It stays locked in one place. In my estimation they should come out with a way to do the same on the lower clamp and do away completely with the old style clamps. It would be so much easier than having to load the clamp and then insert it into the lower arm.

They are made differently. The regular clamps are slotted clear through from front to back. The Quik clamp is only slotted back to the screw so the blade has a stop.

I was at H/D looking at furnace filters and ran across a 4-pak of thin filters for under $5. So, being the cheapskate that I am, I brought them home and put 2 on each side of the fan and held them in place with two long elastic cords thatcame with the tire covers for our old travel trailer. It works great. Between that fan, my overhead Wen air cleaner and the dust vac system I have on each saw, my tiny shop is fairly dust free.

I'm trying to understand your question. What are you trying to get at? Are you referring to the "Quik clamp"?

Jim, I misunderstood what you wrote. I see now that you can't write the URL address without it bringing up the actual Youtube video.

If you have Harbor Freight up your way, here is their offering. https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=sanding balls

Let me start by adding, we have had a lot of newbies here who have come on board, asked a question and then disappeared, never to be heard from again. In your case, your original question was worded in such a way that maybe some of us took it the wrong way. For that, I apologize. When someone asks an open-ended question like "how do I do ????" with little or no information, it becomes quite difficult to answer. My early response was, "None" or something like that. Now that we have more information, it will allow us to give you the answer you were seeking. From what I gather, you are trying to "smooth out" more than actually sand your inside cuts. The one thing that I have found over the years is once you learn what blades to use, your cuts will be much smoother. Also as you become more proficient at scrolling, and that can only come with practice, your cuts will become much much smoother and will not require any sanding at all. Most of us sand both sides of our workpiece prior to doing any scrolling. That will eliminate trying to sand around areas that are very weak. Using a good reverse tooth blade in the correct tooth count will eliminate most all of the "fuzzies" on the under side. Buy yourself a small butane torch and very gently burn off the fuzzies that remain. Just be careful. I guess the best short answer I can offer is, take your time and learn the craft. You'll be amazed at how good you will get with just practice. I have looked back at some of the questions that I asked 7 years ago and I'm actually embarrassed that I asked them. But, as they say, there is no such thing as a "dumb" question other than the one that doesn't get asked. Scroll away, have fun and enjoy the ride. But be careful, it IS addicting.

Try it this way.

That's nuts Jim. I've posted and linked youtube videos many times here. You must have done something wrong. I just do a copy and paste of the youtube address and never had a problem.

I would use my scrollsaw for that. Much less mess & noise. But you did a fantastic job on that.

I was happy to hear that I was right. Thanks. I pretty much found the same. I was cutting a stack of 1/4" walnut & maple 4 plies thick. The Pegas #5mgt did a much better job and was more steerable.

A wise decision. Since the router makes a huge mess, I avoid using it as much as possible.

I grew a full beard in 72. Had most of it ever since. I shave once a week so blades last quite a while but my old Gillette Sensor is getting hard to find blades for. I thought I might just buy an electric to use in between. I'll hit the Goodwill for a used Norelco.

How about electric shavers? I need one. Razor blades have gone to the moon.

I use a $15 H/D heat gun. I keep it plugged in and hanging from one of my shelves. It has two settings. Warm and so frigging hot you could melt the sun. I really have to be careful. When I was in the tool business, I used to sell the Master brand heat guns in body shops. They sold for over $100. Not sure what the difference is.

Or worse!

Why one piece?

Do a search for Olsen blade chart.

I like your style. Looks like a "bush fix" that I might come up with. Watch those flea market sales for $5 corded drills. Use them til they die.

You've got a truly great saw and once you get to know it's quirks it'll serve you well for a very long time. Do think about those Pegas chucks though. That might take some of the 40% away.

You won't be sorry. They are lighter than the factory clamps and just work better.

I'd be very surprised if it doesn't. They are so much smoother. And if you really want to tie a ribbon on it, buy a set of Pegas blade holders for it. Much better than what comes on it.

Short answer......NOPE!

What Wayne said. I actually had to remove all 3 screws and rotate the motor to the next set of holes to get my Ex21 to be at 90 degrees to the table. Use a slotted screwdriver to rotate the motor's armature forward and backward.