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NC Scroller

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Everything posted by NC Scroller

  1. Look back at some of the old threads you stared here on SSV. It might refresh your memory.
  2. I am not a big fan of crowntooth blades but that is because of the way they cut and not because of breakage. #9 blades are overkill in 3/4 pine. My first choice would be a #5 or even a #3 reverse tooth. You said you switched to a #5 and it worked fine. Were the #5 crowntooth as well? While it may be possible to have a bad batch it is not likely especially with brand name blades. Yes pushing can cause breakage.
  3. Yes they have a facility in Hickory NC in addition to several retail stores. It is also their US Headquarters. Actual many of their abrasives come from Germany.
  4. Lots of factors so in order to help you we need to know more. Do they break immediately or after a period of time? What size and brand blade are you using and what kind and thickness is the wood? Is it breaking at the clamps or in the middle?
  5. I am lucky. Klingspor has a couple locations in NC. The closest one is 5 minutes from my dentist office. I also belong to a couple wood working groups that use one of their locations for meetings and we do demos there from time to time. Well we did prior to Covid-19. I have tried many brands and I find the Klingspor paper, while more expensive, lasts a lot longer and is thus worth the upfront cost.
  6. I agree with Kevin. Ask $350 if it is mint.
  7. Kevin did that upper clamp conversion come from Bushton? Like you I have an older Ultra VS226.
  8. I learned when you post pictures like this on FB as a joke you better start cutting. I have orders for 30+
  9. Congrats.... I highly recommend you use the factory table. Very stable and easy to put together.
  10. Same here... in the past, but no more, I did get a couple of these direct ship from China items and was very dissatisfied with the quality.
  11. Hmmm....Brand = nobrand. Made and direct shipped from China with 2-3 month delivery. No warranty info and spec sheets said made of steel. All these are to me anyway STAY AWAY RED FLAGS.
  12. For us non metric folks the sanding drum is only 9" wide. Really a big negative in my book.
  13. https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9012-Woodworking-Exclusive-Multi-Corner/dp/B000FNKXIG/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&hvadid=3486658183&hvbmt=be&hvdev=t&hvqmt=e&keywords=merle+clamp&qid=1593085039&sr=8-1&tag=mh0b-20
  14. I sometimes drill a pilot hole on both ends of a vein line. I have also used various size blades depending on how thick or thin you want line. There is no right way or wrong way.
  15. For anyone else here is what I did to resolve the issue. This rubber band has been in place for well over a year and the knob has not moved a bit. Simple-Easy- No Cost fix = Priceless
  16. Berta I texted you something to try.
  17. https://www.rockler.com/ezy-framer-v-nail-installation-tool
  18. Like you I have tried many different spiral blades in all the sizes. Threw out or gave most away. When I do use them they are mostly 2/0 or #1 FD New Spirals.
  19. I am not a big spiral fan though I do use them when I need to. I know I will take some heat for this but in my opinion they tear more then they cut and because of that they are tough on fragile areas. Also in my opinion cutting a single piece of 1/4" plywood is a recipe for trouble. Add a piece of 1/8" or another piece 1/4" plywood as a backer to reduce tear out. Using flat blades like a Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse I would use a #1 or 2/0. Pegas MG will also work in the same sizes but since they are more aggressive you have to be more careful and reduce speed. Good Luck and keep us posted.
  20. When making frames accuracy counts. This applies to the angle and the lengths. Wood glue is not designed to fill gaps so the tighter the corners the better. I stack cut my pieces on the miter saw so they are exactly the same size. For clamping I use a Merel clamp. I also use "V" nails in addition to the wood glue. The beauty of using both "V" nail and glue is I can make multiple frames quickly. The process is: 1. cut the pieces 2. apply glue 3. clamp 4. drive in the "V" nails (two per corner) 5. immediately after driving the "V" nails remove from clamp and go on to the next frame.
  21. I would use a skip tooth blade vs a reverse tooth blade. The size blade will depend on the pattern but in general I am thinking a #3 or #5..
  22. Don't feel bad. One day your saw will run and not cut. You will scratch your head and then realize you put the blade in backwards. Trust me it will happen.
  23. Yes your blade is too small for 1.5" wood. I would use nothing less then a #5 skip tooth blade. Flying Dutchman makes a skip tooth blade they call a Polar blade. That is my go to blade for compound cutting. A #5 Polar is 16.5 teeth per inch. Pegas and Olson also make skip tooth blades that have roughly the same number of teeth. NOTE you want a skip tooth blade and not one with reverse teeth.
  24. When you stain some woods like pine the color can come out blotchy. Applying a sanding sealer, can help prevent that. https://www.familyhandyman.com/woodworking/staining-wood/how-to-stain-wood-evenly-without-getting-blotches-and-dark-spots/
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