NC Scroller

This.... Straight from the can. https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/zinsser/interior-wood-finishes/sealcoat-universal-sanding-sealer/

Many people use the retractable leashes so I go with a single peg option. In one of the magazines there was a leash holder design. I will try to find it. Instead of a pre made peg they used a wooden dowel and attached a dog foot print also made of wood.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-2-in-x-2-in-x-3-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-1-5-in-x-3-ft-Poplar-Board/1000595603 Link even gives you the aisle and bay #.

I get most of my wood from a place that sells hardwood lumber and cabinet grade plywood. There sell rough cut thicker stock either 6/4 or 8/4. In a pinch Lowes and Home Depot sells poplar and oak that is 1 1/2" x 1 1/2". Cost is about $6.00 for a 36" piece.

Can I ask why you don't want stain on the back side? What does it hurt? The only way I know how to help this would be to apply a coat of sanding sealer, aka clear Shellac, to the back of you wood before you cut. It should help but not prevent completely as the wood is made up of straw like fibers that suck up the stain.

The first thing that comes to mine is this real Baltic birch or the birch plywood they sell at Lowes or Home Depot. If the latter there is not much you can do. Sorry to say you got what you paid for. The second thing is you said you were using #3 FD Ultra Reverse. Is the blade installed with the crimp at the top? Can you post a picture of the bottom layer?

By thin stock I am assuming 1/4" or less. If so, a #3 MGT is just too aggressive at any speed in my opinion. Don't get me wrong. MGT blades are my blades of choice 90% of the time. For a single 1/4" or less I would use a Flying Dutchman UR #1. If you really want to stick with the MGT drop down to a #2/0.

If the Hawk is a G4 model then it would be good to consider. If not pass it by. Don't buy unless you can test it.

My process exactly.

My two cents is to save a little more money and get a Pegas or King. Dewalts are not as good as they once were.

Hot glue gun. No mess. No waiting. As soon as the glue the last corner I put the pattern on and start cutting. If I took the time to do all those little things I want to do around the shop my scroll saw would never get used.

I use a 29" wooden bar stool. I have used it for years and on different brand saws (Hawk, EX, Hegner, and DeWalt) on factory stands.

I think it was me but the credit really goes to the late Dirk Boelman. I attended a wood working show back in 2011 or 2012 in Saratoga, NY. Dirk was one of the presenters. I learned so much from him. When he passed the scroll saw world lost a real gem. Les instead of waxed paper try freezer paper. It is wider and in the long run cheaper then waxed paper.

I would contact the seller and ask for a replacement. If the seller is worth their salt they should replace them no questions asked. If not, find a new seller to do business with.

If you looking for a spray gun you are best to get a HVLP gun or better yet HVLP system (no compressor required). I have this one from Rockler. Though is was on sale for less at the time. https://www.rockler.com/rockler-hvlp-finishing-sprayer . HVLP stands for High Volume Low Pressure. I only spray water based finish with it.

It is a Sue Mey design. Her pattern # CL014.

When all this social distancing ends I am less than 3 hours to your Northwest. I have a Hawk VS226 (light, stand, blade holders, foot pedal) gathering dust. If you are interested I am sure we can come to terms.

HE has risen indeed!

Happy Easter Blessings......

I do a lot of glue ups so I kinda do both. First I use freezer paper vs wax paper. It is thicker, wider and I find easier to control (stay put). I actually use two pieces. One I cut in half and the other full width. I also use a foam roller. My roller is a 3" trim roller that I replaced the paint pad with black pipe insulation. So see if this makes sense. 1. I apply a liberal amount of glue on the 1/2 sheet of paper. 2. I put my piece of work, glue side up on the full width sheet. 3. I roll the roller through the glue to get an even coat 4. I then use the roller to put the glue on the work piece. 5. Repeat 4 and 5 until the entire piece is coated. 6. Attach you pieces and clamp as needed. 7 Now I go back to the full width sheet with a damp shop rag and remove any excess glue 8. Then you are ready to start the process all over again adding more glue if needed in step 1. Note: Over finishing you can clean up the roller with water and reuse. I do 100's of glue up on the same piece of pipe insulation. Oh if you forget to clean your roll after you are done don't worry. Wait a day and the glue will peel off.

Just remember if you put it on a base you are actually raising the saw which might not be comfortable. Rolf 's solution is best. If you have a vibration issue you can always add weight down below. I know many turners do that with mini lathes on mobile bases.

I do most the same thing as dgman. In the times I will stain the piece I let the thickness decide. If the overlay piece is 1/4" or less I actually stain before cutting. Then there is no stain on the edges. If working with thicker wood I stain all surfaces the best I can.

My personal blade of choice for that would be a Pegas MGT #5 or #7. The MGT is an aggressive reverse tooth blade. I am not knocking them but I am not a big fan of Olson Blades.

I would say pass especially at that price. You are buying it blind since you can't test it out. I bet you to pack and ship it properly will cost you almost as much as you are paying. Save up your money.

Check on the Klingspor website. They sell quality sanding supplies. https://www.woodworkingshop.com/