NC Scroller
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Everything posted by NC Scroller
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Using Mineral Oil -Does It Ever Dry?
NC Scroller replied to ekud1946's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Mineral never dries. As the name implies it is oil. Yes the piece may appear dry to the touch but for all who think that mineral oil dries lay a piece treated with mineral oil on a piece of clean brown cardboard or even a brown paper bag for a few hours. Even weeks and months later there will be an oil mark left. -
Hawk I sure hope you wear a mask whenever you scroll. Unless the volume of air getting sucked through the filter (even when dirty) exceeds the volume of air being pushed out by the fan on the left you will have a lot of airborne dust.
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A #5 reverse tooth is my go to size for 1/2" or greater. I have and still use many brands and style blades though mostly Pegasus. Instead of playing with pine use poplar. Due to the grain pine is actually harder to get a true cut on especially when cutting with the grain. Good luck and hope to see pictures soon.
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I had an almost 40 career in computers and information technology. If you are using it to store patterns and connect to this site or browsing the web you can keep on doing it until it dies. Just remember that when it dies whatever data you have stored on it will be lost unless you have it backed up. HOWEVER if you are using it to store personal records, do online banking, make online purchases, do your taxes, balance your check book, etc then replace it. Many updates are security related and protect you from hackers. Just my two cents.
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Yes please.
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Other similar patterns? Kids puzzle
NC Scroller replied to Iguanadon's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Scott see if this makes sense. Take the outline of your big animal and photo copy it at say 20%. You can play with the size. Trim away the extra paper so all you have is the outline. Now lay it in the middle of your puzzle. Cut as normal with the new added piece. -
Selling online or those thinking about it..
NC Scroller replied to kmmcrafts's topic in General Scroll Sawing
It is a real complicated mess. My state allows an estimate on online purchases based on your net income. What complicates it is some of the bigger online sites like Amazon charges sales tax already so if not careful you can pay twice. -
Ask $100 but take $75.00.
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It turns printed material into stickers. Here is one at Amazon. They can be purchases at Walmart, Michaels, etc. https://www.amazon.com/Xyron-624632-Creative-Station-Option/dp/B00X3EZ5VO/ref=dp_ob_title_def
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Went to pull the trigger but then the sticker shock hit. Two table clothes were $21.34 BUT the shipping would be $21.89. WHAT A RIP OFF!!!! I could see somewhere between $8-$10 maybe but shipping was more then the product. I contacted their customer service to see if that was an error. All I will say is they have a real attitude. Not customer friendly.
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Thanks Scott. Can you slide bins in and out with the fitted ones. For my tables I prefer black or navy. The dark colors do not show the dirty as much as white and I think makes the product really stand out.
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Great setup. Scott can I ask where you got the banner?
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Will never ever use Water Based Poly in a spray can again. A couple years back I ruined about 8 hours of work. When I sprayed my project white lumps shot out and covered it. I tried to sand it off but it was a detailed fret project and it broke when sanding. When I contacted Minwax they told me I should never start spraying directly on the project with a new can. I should spray 15-20 seconds somewhere before using as particles of the finish can collect in the tube. So in others words waste a 1/3 of the can. Had 3 new cans and tossed them all.
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I'm with Wayne. Use shellac. Oils such as mineral, BLO, pure tung oil, walnut oil, etc never harden and are meant more as a wood treatment.
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Having worked in manufacturing I have seen very often what looks great on paper does not always work perfectly in the real world. I applaud any company that sees away to make their products better and acts. We the consumer wins.
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Especially if you are making them for children I would not recommend plywood unless it is a flat "jig saw" puzzle. Plywood, even the good stuff tends to chip along the edges. For stand up puzzles I normally use wood 5/8" to 3/4". I like to "break" the edges with a sanding mop. This slightly rounded the edge.
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The hard plastic on the thumb screws are glued to metal screws. They are really just handles. Trust us the business end is metal.
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New puzzle maker with a need for advice!
NC Scroller replied to Joe Peacock's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I cut some picture puzzles with 1/8" and 1/4" Baltic Birch and I use a FD puzzle blade with no issues. My saw is an EX -21. I cut them one at a time. I would love to see a picture of your issue. I cut my puzzles free hand following the outline of images in the picture. My locking tabs are not fancy but they work. I just make little loops and indents. Don't over thinking it. -
Congrats Scott.....Break a leg.
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To answer your second question you have to tell us what kind of saw you have. As far as what speed there is no magic answer. My practice is to set the speed at the fastest you are comfortable with. I scroll a lot and have been scrolling close to 20 years. 95% of the time I am cutting at between 3/4 and full speed.
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I am running at 2350 rpm
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There is a far better way. I just replaced my drill press chuck with a Jacobs 41BA 1/2-20 medium duty chuck. It holds all my numbered bits just fine and goes up to 3/8" if I need it. I tried several mini chucks and was not happy with the alignment or wobble. No it is not cheaper unless you find something on ebay. I think mine was under $40. They have different mounts so be sure to get the one for your drill press.
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Yes dipping is the way to go. I have several pieces of hardware cloth I use but I did not even bother to make a frame. If you are dipping in oil (mineral oil, linseed oil, etc) it is perfectly fine to dip whole and dry whole. If you are dipping in a finish that hardens (shellac, lacquer, poly, etc) you can dip whole but you need to separate the pieces when drying. If you don't, the hardening finishes have a tendency to make the pieces stick together. Weather permitting I will set mine in the sun to dry for a couple hours. It speeds up the drying process. One note of caution. I do not recommend dipping wood like Poplar in a water based finish. The water based finish tends to raise the grain and can cause the wood to swell.
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Maybe you should change your user name to "Iggy Down Under".
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Berry Basket is now https://www.scrollsaw.com/. I looked and do not see the dolphin pattern. Best the lady can do is to contact Fox Chapel publishing and see if they will give her the email of the designer.
