NC Scroller
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Everything posted by NC Scroller
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Sounds like bad bearing. The trick will be to find it and replace it or at least grease it.
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From my experience every blade in a bundle or bag are in the same direction. So once you determine what way one blade is the other 11 are the same way. Then you can mark them with a red magic marker or nail polish.
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You can't have enough floor space, shelves or outlets. Welcome back!!!!
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Yes that is the way it "should" work. In reality you just insert the micro chuck and go. BUT if it is not put in the chuck just so it will wobble. Then it is trial and error to get it in the standard Jacobs chuck just right. That is why I switched to the Jacobs 41AB chuck. Then there is no need for the micro chuck as that Jacobs chuck will hold the smaller micro bits.
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Thin woods are very subject to warping and twisting. Quartersawn woods are your best bet but very expensive. When you go through the pipe at the store look at the end grain and only get pieces where the ring lines are straight up and down if at all possible.
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SCROLL SAW----FEEDING FROM TOP OR BOTTOM?
NC Scroller replied to danny's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Top feed 95% of the time. I started as a bottom feeder but forced my self to switch and I am happy I did. This is because I do a lot of fret work on larger pieces (up to 30") and it is next to impossible to find the tiny holes from the bottom when in the middle of the piece. There is really no right or wrong. At the end of the day it boils down to what your saw is capable and what you are comfortable doing. -
Wow an exceptional 1st piece. Boiled linseed oil while it will help "pop" the grain is not in it's self a protective finish. For items like that I prefer to dip the piece in Deftoil, or Danish Oil, or Tung Oil before attaching a backer. Then if I want more sheen or a harder finish I will spray Poly like Mike suggested above.
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Placed a blade order on Friday afternoon Eastern time on the WTB website and they arrived in the Wednesday morning mail. Based on the postage meter stamp the blades were shipped the same day I placed the order. It can't get much better than that. Disclaimer: I have no interests in the Wooden Teddy Bear. Just passing along a good service experience.
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Black works 80% of the time. The other 20% you have to experiment and see what goes best. Remember everyone's taste is different. Even where you plan to hang the item as it may drive the colors. For example if one was to hang a piece on a dark paneling wall a lighter color would be better then a dark. Also consider if your piece is to be framed. If using a brown colored frame black will not likely be the best choice for your backing.
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New to me - a better way to drill.
NC Scroller replied to NC Scroller's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Jim I had that happen to me too. This is what I found. Many times, we are breaking tiny bits because we tend to push the bit through the wood instead of letting it drill it's way through. I found slowing my drilling rate down (not the speed the drill turns) and only letting the bit extend out of the chuck about a 1/16th" beyond the wood thickness really made a difference. Also make sure your holding the wood flat on the table and do not let it "pull up" or shift when backing the bit out. -
I did a web search near you and found a place called Fort Lauderdale Wood Working (http://fortlauderdalewoodworking.com/) and Constantines Wood Center (http://www.constantines.com/) I am sure one of them could mill it for you for a minimal fee or maybe you can barter and have them do it for part of the wood supply. Does not hurt to ask.
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I have used the Dremel plunge router base with mine for years. The problem with the work station is the distance between the drill bit and the stand column. With the plunge router base you can have any size project.
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or move to a bigger shop/storage area like I did.
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In my workshop
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This is me. I would not grease a machine that is still under warrantee unless the owners manual states what and where to grease/oil/lube. In most cases the sleeves and fittings needing the grease are only accessible by opening the cover and disassembling the machine. That is the case with both my DW788's. Once you open that cover you can pretty much forget your warrantee. Just something to think about.
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I have used either D-rings or saw tooth hangers
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New to me - a better way to drill.
NC Scroller replied to NC Scroller's topic in General Scroll Sawing
The Chuck is pressed onto the spindle and can be press or tapped out. -
Pricing is the hardest part of scrolling if you are selling products. Just remember some pricing will vary by region and even by venue (show) in a region. I am sure they will sell fine at $35 in the suburbs of DC, Atlanta, NYC, Philly, London, etc but in my part of rural USA $20-$25 is the best I can do for pre made and $25 -$30 for custom. This is why with the premade I use 1/2" stock and stack cut 2X.
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I know many of us have used mini chuck inserts in our drill presses to allow us to use numbered drill bits. That is because most drill press chucks are not designed to go small enough for numbered bits. The mini chuck can be a pain to align in the drill press chuck so you get no wobble. And of course once you get it just perfect you end up needing the drill press for a larger bit so out goes the mini chuck and the next time you use a numbered bit you start all over. Anyway I just replaced the chuck on my big drill press with a Jacobs 41AB chuck. It is a 0"-3/8" chuck and it works perfectly right out of the box. No wobble and it hold my #68 bit just great. It came with the MT2 shaft already attached. All I had to do is remove the old chuck and push in the 41AB. Took less then a minute. Best $40 I have spent in a long time. They can be had for less if you use your existing MT2 shaft but then it is harder to switch. I got my chuck through Ebay but they are available through numerous sellers and even Amazon.
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Yes the EX21 stand does have adjustable feet.
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Rick mineral oil can be had at your local pharmacy, Wal-Mart and even sometimes in your local Dollar Store. Look for it where they have laxatives. Yes it works for that too.
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I have used Poly on mine with no issues. I mix semi-gloss gloss poly 50/50 with mineral spirits and dip it like JohnR48 describes about. Wipe off the excess and air dry.
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Google Worktunes.
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The 3 part mix (MS/BLO/POLY) does provide a "hard" or protective finish. Depending on how glossy a finish or how protective a finish (items handled a lot) you will need to give it multiple coats. A better solution is to give the first coat the 3 part mix and then a follow on coat or two of MS/Poly mixed 50/50. This 50/50 mix if pretty much what wipe on poly is.
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Woodknots that link did not work for me. Can you post a picture?
