NC Scroller
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Everything posted by NC Scroller
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KY if the motor is not designed to run at variable speed attaching a reastat (really spelled rheostat) will only burn the motor out in short order. Then it will be worth only $5.00 per hundred pounds at the junk yard.
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Another issue with used pallets besides the toxic chemicals is they could have been used to transport brick, block, cement bags and other such material. While not very toxic fine particulars get ground into the wood and they will ruin or dull your blades (scrollsaw, table saw, jointer, planer). You get the pic.
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Care must be used with tiny bits. Even with using a drill press or dremel (with plunge router attachment) the bits tend to flex and go in at an angle. This can be a real problem with small fret cuts in thick or stacked wood. You can prevent that by inserting your bit so only about a 1/4" extends from the chuck. Then drill a starter hole into the wood. Once you have the starter hole(s) you can extend the bit to the proper length and finish drilling. Yes it takes longer but it will ensure you have proper holes.
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I buy business cards from Vista Print 500 at a clip. I think they are better quality then those you print yourself but that is just me For projects that allow, I spray the back of a business card with 3M Super 77 adhesive and attach the business card to the back of the project. For some smaller projects I have trimmed business cards down.
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Ralph I hope you fair better then a guy in my club. He took his Type 1 in for that rebuild deal. Two weeks later they returned to him a Type 2 saw with his table and sticker off the old motor. He knew it was a different saw because he had some tell tale marks on the old housing, the blade clamps were totally different from his and the vertical blade movement was way out of wack. The folks at the Dewalt center refused to tell him how the rebuilds are done. The blade travel was so bad he could not use it.
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Gee to bad you can do a photo shoot on a Dewalt motor. I have a TYpe 1 sitting in the corner I would love to be able to fix.
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Sounds like a bad motor. Happened to me once. There is one more thing to do. On the end of the motor there is a roughly 1/4" hole and if you look in there there is a small slot for a flat blade screw drive. Unplug the saw and using a screw driver turn it back and forth about half a turn. It should turn freely and the blade should move. Plug it back in and try again. I would also check the brushes to see if they are not broken or overly worn. GOOD LUCK and keep us posted.
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Sorry to hear the bad news. There is one thing to check which are the brushes.
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Ralph, hate to tell you this but blown fuses are often a sign of a motor gone bad. I know this for a fact. You should be able to get a fuse of that size in many auto parts stores. I will keep my fingers crossed for you.
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I have been chatting with Shawn who has been given special access to help with the debug. What he has told me is it appears to be a permissions issue that no one understands. The users impacted appear to be the old timers who were covered to the new system. Might me interesting to go out and create a new ID to see if it would work for you.
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To me the obvious question is why not keep both? Unless you are real tight for $$$ or space there is nothing wrong with two saws.
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Just be careful with homemade or larger knobs. The blade holding screws are steel and the blade holders on most saw are aluminum. Over tightening will strip out the treads in the holder and they ain't cheap.
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John there is a short learning curve but I do the bottom clamping totally by feel. Trust me. If I can do it anyone can. To make the process easier be sure to remove the bottom guard. IMHO it is a useless piece of metal anyway.
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Very nice job. Who is the designer?
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Like dgman I am a top feed. It is one of the reasons I love my DW. I seldom need to use anything to hold the top arm but when I do I just use a piece of scrap 2x4. I have a piece of 2x4 attached to the stand with a pair of rare earth magnets so I know where it is on those rare times.
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Really the number scale is meaningless on the DW since there are no stops in the top or bottom blade holders to ensure you positioned the blade the same every time. This is typical of many saws available today. As the others said you have to go by sound and feel. Just some general rules that I have found: 1. More tension is always better then less 2. Blade breaking is a symptom of not even tension 3. If the blade is hard to control or drifts a lot then increase tension 4. See number 1.
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Phantom at least they are letting us update for free this time. It takes some of the sting out.
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As usual, I must be doing something wrong
NC Scroller replied to jerry1939's topic in General Scroll Sawing
For my zero clearance inserts I use a piece of aluminum flashing that I attach to the scrollsaw table with double sided tape. -
For 1/4" oak my first choice would be a #3 FD ultra reverse. Make sure to apply clear packing tape on top of pattern and to the and bottom side of the wood too.
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As usual, I must be doing something wrong
NC Scroller replied to jerry1939's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I find cutting a single piece of 1/8" plywood very hard unless there is zero small detail. As DW suggested a zero clearance and reducing blade sizes will help a lot but your best bet is staking several pieces. -
I sell between 4 and 6 per year. I get $25 each in my area of the country.
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I removed the pattern from my prior post and inserted a picture
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This is not the best scan but it gives you an idea. I reduced the actual image to scan it easier. NOTE: I removed the pattern and posted a picture of the puzzle so not to create copyright questions. Per the magazine article the designer's, Jim VanDyke, email ID is [email protected].
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After blowing the switch out with an air compressor or can of compressed air turn the saw switch to on and install a dead man type foot switch. Problem solved. It will take you all of about 15 minutes to get used to it and you will kick your self for not doing it sooner. I use one made by MLCS and it runs about $23 on Amazon but if you have a Harbor Freight near you they make a cheaper one.
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Thanks guys for the input. I looked again in my mess and actually found the magazine. It was in the Holiday 2011 issue of Creative Woodworks and Crafts. I really need a better system to keep track.
