NC Scroller
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Everything posted by NC Scroller
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Things I can't live without (in no particular order): Stool Light Foot pedal Drill press or dremel tool with plunger router attachment. Sander
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Very nice I did a similar cutting (the late Dirk Boelman is the designer) but I painted the background red, white, and blue. I think I like your version better.
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Never trust those "protractor" gauges. I always square my table for a machinist square or credit card.
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Yes but the Mike's Woodshop website is still active it is just run by Wooden Teddy Bear.
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One thing not mentioned. If you are taping the wood apply to the top and bottom. Tape on the bottom gives the added benefit of sliding easier on the table then just wood alone.
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Check ebay.
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The HD's near me only carry the standard oak, poplar and pine. Maybe it is a Left Coast thing.
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Small bits like #54, #58 etc break because they tend to flex and not drill a vertical hole. You can eliminate that by only leaving only about 1/4" extending from the chuck...drill to make a starter hole and then extend the bit to the required length and finish drilling.
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Well 10 days of rain = lots of shop time
NC Scroller replied to NC Scroller's topic in Bragging Rights
The pattern came from Scroller LTD ( You might be able to get it directly from Charles Dearing (http://www.woodenvisions.com/) -
Just a couple things I was able to get done while NC is getting hammered with 10 straight rainy days. The forecast is for at least 2 more days.
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This is not the best pic but here is the results. I am very proud and happy to report it was cut totally with spiral blades. A first for me. Like I said I have used spirals on some patterns before but on only limited cuts. Will I throw away my flat blades, HELL NO. But I will be more comfortable in using spirals when I need to in the future. In case you missed it the designer is Charles Dearing.
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Welcome Bob. I do not have the EX but I used one as well as a DeWalt, Dremel, and Hawk. Yes puzzle blades are very thin as normally you do not want to have a wide kerf when making puzzles. Blades can and do break but TYPICALLY blade breakage is cause by lack of tension and trying to force the wood into the blade and not letting the blade cut.
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Great idea. People love angels.
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Could not say it better myself. I have done a lot of demos and showed it to a lot of folks over the years. Most people when they first see it tell you NAH but most of them now are using packing table. The only time I do not use it is when doing detailed fret work on plywoods. The only reason I do not use it in plywood as I have had some breakage of tiny pieces when removing the tape.
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I have never seen a pattern where it prohibits the making and selling the projects I have obtained (legally) patterns from many sources for many years. At best some patterns do specific state they number of photo copies you are legally allows to make.
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If you are planning to glue up your own wood you really need to have a jointer to get the edges being glued flat (90 degrees). Also you need to watch the crown of the wood and alternate them so one is crowned up and the other down like in the below picture.
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I own 2 DeWalts. One is over 13 years old with 1,000th of hours on it since I do a few craft shows a year. If I was to buy an new saw today I would buy the Excalibur (EX-21). Do doubt about it. Good luck with your shopping.
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Well said. What happened is down right stealing.
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Glad to hear the progress. I know it is hard but just don't push it.
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Out see some of the comments in the below thread. You do not want to go there. http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/topic/16012-couldnt-pass-it-up/
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Sully makes a good point. Even the best saw won't cut for crap with junk blades. There are several quality blades like Flying Dutchman, Olsen, Pegasus....... They all have their pluses and minuses and they all have their followers. DO NOT buy Sears brand or Vermont brand or other store brand blades.
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Thanks Guys for the help. I tried a few of your suggestions (flatten the ends and slowing the feed rate) and it seems to be helping. Scrolling Steve I think that is also part of my problem. I am pushing too hard when the blades dull and that is when I have breakage. I also found I have some FD NS 2/0 blades. I will also try using a smaller blade when I get back in the shop.
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I have a Charles Dearing horse pattern I am working on that really needs to be cut with spirals. I have tried on a DeWalt 788 and a Hawk VS226. I can maneuver with spirals and cut as I pretty much want. While I am making progress I am breaking blades, bending blades at the end and or they pop out of the blade holders. I have NO issues with flat blades of any type, brand or style. I am bound and determined to get this done. For those who work with spirals on a regular basis any tips or pointers? BTW, I have FD # 1 and #3 spirals as well as some FD New Spirals in the same size.
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I started with a Dremel scroll saw and quickly out grew it.I moved up to a Dewalt and have never looked back. Get the most saw you can afford. Variable speed, designed for pinless blades, and quick blade changes (no tools required) are a must. Also get the biggest saw you can afford. You can cut small projects on a big saw but it is hard (not impossible) to cut large projects on a small saw.
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ROFL....I am with you on that one. TBT I had to look up the spelling of rheostat myself.
