dgman

In your O P you asked "what would you do?". Well, that's what I would do!

It looks like the air hose is not adjustable. That means it will be blowing wood dust at you. Not good!

A type I is at least 12 to 15 years old!

Just to clarify, the old 16" Delta saws have nothing to do with the 20" saws other than the name. They are made and designed by different company's. So comparing them is like comparing apples to oranges.

Hey Joshua, sorry to come on so late, just got home from a long day working. Anyway, I use this method on every thing I scroll. First I sand the wood blank to finish grit, usually 220 grit. Then when I'm done cutting, I touch up with the 220 grit sandpaper. Like you I use a 50/50 mixture of boild linseed oil and mineral spirits. Here in So. Ca., the humidity is moderate so it usually take 24 hours to dry. Then I apply the lacquer. Like everyone has said, spray a light even coat. With the Deft lacquer it drys very fast. I can usually apply three coats in about an hour. I don't like a shiny finish, so I use semi gloss or satin. Now, here's my secret, well it's not so secret as a lot of folks do this, I use a folded piece of brown paper bag to sand off those little nubs that you see. It's like 2000 grit sand paper, but does not leave any sand dust. If there are any nubs between coats, sand them with the brown paper. I use a small soft brush to brush off the project between coats or you can use compressed air. I do a final sanding with the brown paper. This evens out the final coat and buffs out any rough areas. When I go grocery shoping, I always ask for paper bags!

I think I would PM the person in question and discuss it with him.

Nice work Gordie, excellent pattern too!

As usual DW, beautiful work!

Great work Bob!

Hey DW, that should make a great looking bowl. Looking forward to seeing that one!

Hey Bob, welcome from another Southern Californian. In fact I lived in Sun City for a while. Welcome to the Village!

Paul, thats why I make my own frames. I don't have to size the project to the frame, I size the frame to the project.

That's "Cooper Black".

Scroll up to reply #4 and click on the link scrappile posted.

Thanks Paul. He will be missed! I know he doesn't hang here so I made a reply at the other forum.

Where did you hear that Paul?

Hey Kevin, I've been using ms for years. Why would you mix lacquer thinner with it?

Yup, mineral spirits. Use a clean soft cloth wetted with mineral spirits and wipe it down, or put some in a spray bottle and spritz the project and wipe it down. I use this method to remove the pattern.

I teach my students that when the blade no longer cuts the way you want it to, it's time to change it. That means if it lasts the whole project or just one cut. Change it when it isn't working for you. Blades are cheap, it's not worth my time and effort to cut with a dull blade.

As a scroll saw instructor, I start my begginer students off with Olson #5 skip tooth blades. They are a good over all blade to learn on. once they progress through the class we move on to reverse tooth blades. For new students Olson blades are less agresive than Flying Dutchman blades. Personally, I use Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse blades. They are an agressive blade, but suite my style. I stock FD UR blades in sizes of 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9. They do not come in 2/0 but I use a lot of 2/0 blades. I haven't found an FD 2/0 blade that works for me, so I use Olson Skip Tooth 2/0 blades. I also stock FD New Spiral blades in various sizes for portraits and I use FD Polar 3, 5 and 7 blades for compound cutting. For zig saw puzzles, I use Olson 2/0 blades. P.S. I buy my FD blades from Mike, www.mikesworkshop.com, and Olson blade at Sloans, www.sloanswoodshop.com. You can mix and match any size of the same type to make a gross.

Cool! Do you have to ship or will they get picked up?

I have a very nice Makita 1/4 sheet sander and two Porter Cable 333 random orbital sanders. That very nice 1/4 sheet sander stays in its case on a shelf. It never gets used. I use one 333 RO constantly. The other is a spare. Anyone want to buy a rarely used 1/4 sheet sander? Well actually, I'll keep it for that rare time that I might need it.

Yup, it's unanimous, get er done!

This is why I use a dust collector for dust collection instead of a shop vac.

Don't let it sit! Two tricks that will help. First plane equal amounts on each side. Flip the wood over after each pass. This keeps the moisture level equal on both sides. Second, don't set the boards flat on a serface or floor. If you are planning several boards, stack with stickers or wood spacers in between each board. This allows moisture to circulate equally around the boards. If your planing just one or two boards, lean them against a wall or your work bench to allow for air circulation around the entire board. This should help with cupping