dgman
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Everything posted by dgman
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I teach my students that when the blade no longer cuts the way you want it to, it's time to change it. That means if it lasts the whole project or just one cut. Change it when it isn't working for you. Blades are cheap, it's not worth my time and effort to cut with a dull blade.
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As a scroll saw instructor, I start my begginer students off with Olson #5 skip tooth blades. They are a good over all blade to learn on. once they progress through the class we move on to reverse tooth blades. For new students Olson blades are less agresive than Flying Dutchman blades. Personally, I use Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse blades. They are an agressive blade, but suite my style. I stock FD UR blades in sizes of 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9. They do not come in 2/0 but I use a lot of 2/0 blades. I haven't found an FD 2/0 blade that works for me, so I use Olson Skip Tooth 2/0 blades. I also stock FD New Spiral blades in various sizes for portraits and I use FD Polar 3, 5 and 7 blades for compound cutting. For zig saw puzzles, I use Olson 2/0 blades. P.S. I buy my FD blades from Mike, www.mikesworkshop.com, and Olson blade at Sloans, www.sloanswoodshop.com. You can mix and match any size of the same type to make a gross.
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Cool! Do you have to ship or will they get picked up?
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I have a very nice Makita 1/4 sheet sander and two Porter Cable 333 random orbital sanders. That very nice 1/4 sheet sander stays in its case on a shelf. It never gets used. I use one 333 RO constantly. The other is a spare. Anyone want to buy a rarely used 1/4 sheet sander? Well actually, I'll keep it for that rare time that I might need it.
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Yup, it's unanimous, get er done!
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This is why I use a dust collector for dust collection instead of a shop vac.
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Don't let it sit! Two tricks that will help. First plane equal amounts on each side. Flip the wood over after each pass. This keeps the moisture level equal on both sides. Second, don't set the boards flat on a serface or floor. If you are planning several boards, stack with stickers or wood spacers in between each board. This allows moisture to circulate equally around the boards. If your planing just one or two boards, lean them against a wall or your work bench to allow for air circulation around the entire board. This should help with cupping
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That's cute Dan!
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Hey Dan, I think the first question is what wood to use. It has to be a wood that will stand up to weather like redwood, ceder, white oak or even mahogany. Any paint or topcoat eventually will degrade. When that happens so will the wood if it not suitable.
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At the very least, you can use it for backing boards. Hopefully it will work out for you.
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Thanks Travis for removing the spam posts! I wonder how the get through?
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Boy,those look fragile! Nice work Dan!
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As you know, the EX table has a coating on it, I presume to keep it from Rusting and to provide a slipery surface. You will want to keep the new table waxed for the same reasons.
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The only thing I did not like about the Excalibur is the short front of the table. I think a bigger table would be great!
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Sounds like you've done your research! I store my mix in glass mason jar. Use a little mineral spirits to clean the container. I use an old baking pan.
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Hey Jordan, there is no such thing as a silly question. Pure boiled linseed oil will take a week or more to dry. The mineral spirits allows the oil to dry in about 24 hours depending on the humidity. The trick is to wipe off the excess oil after soaking. I have never used 100% pure tung oil so I can't comment on that. I used to use Danish oil. It works just like the 50/50 mix. But in the long run it is much more expensive. Any finish designed as a finish in North Americia is food safe once it is cured. Products not designed as a finish, like orange oil and lemon oil, which are designed as cleaners and polishes are not food safe. I use Deft semi gloss spray lacquer because it is very easy to apply and dries fast. I can apply three coats in less than an hour. It leaves a nice satiny finish to the project. I don't like the plastic look and feel of polyurethane. It's true there are many ways to finish a project. This method has worked for me for many years.
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Hey Dan, at 1/32", how many do you stack at a time?
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I think you did a great job for your first piece! Keep up the good work!
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Hey Dick, that's the way I've been doing it for years. I keep a spray bottle filled with mineral spirits, the odorless type. Just give it a light spritz, wait a few seconds and it peels right off. Then wipe it down with a a clean soft cloth like an old tee shirt. Another method I often use is using a heat gun. Heat the pattern with the heat gun or hair dryer then gently pull off the patern. If ther is glue residue on the wood, I dampen a clean cloth with mineral spirits and wipe off the residue. With either method, the mineral spirits will dry in less time then it takes to remove all those bits of tape!
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Hey Jordan, welcome to the village! Where in California are you? I'm the scroll saw instructor at the Woodcraft store in Ventura. I also give private lessons at my garage shop in Moorpark. I also belong to a very large general woodworking club in Thousand Oaks. There are several village members in Ca. Lots of recourses to tap both here in the village and around the state! So, come on in and join the fun!
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I use a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. I pour the mixture in an old metal baking pan. I soak the piece in the oil for about five minutes or so, then shake off the residual oil. I wipe it down with a clean rag till all the residual oil is wiped off. I set it on an old baking rack to dry. The oil brings out the grain and color of most hardwoods like Walnut, Red Oak, Cherry, Mahogany ect. The mineral spirits allows the oil to flow easly through all the fret holes and allows the oil to dry in about 24 hours depending on humidity. Once the oil is dry, I topcoat with Deft semi gloss spray lacquer. I don't like a real shiny finish so I use semi gloss. The spray lacquer drys fast. You can apply three coats in about an hour. If the finish has small nibs in it I sand it down with a piece of brown paper bag. It's like using 2000 grit sandpaper. I store the oil mix in quart size glass mason jars.
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Been doing it this way for years!
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The reason your hose is loose at the first segment is it is cracked. Make sure you remove that segment or it will continue to be loose.
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I use clear packing tape on top of the pattern for most hardwoods. I use a plastic scraper to burnish the tape down to the pattern so there are no air bubbles to trap sawdust between the pattern and tape. If I'm cutting hardwoods that tend to burn like cherry and maple, I apply the clear tape to the bottom, but not to bare wood. I will glue a sheet of paper first then the tape. That way the tape comes off with the pattern and blank paper. With a spritz of mineral spirits, the pattern and paper come off easily.
