dgman
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Everything posted by dgman
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Great looking puzzles John!
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I just received a shipment of 1/4” hardwood boards from Ochooch Hardwoods. It came nicely wrapped in plastic wrap. I know from experience that these boards will warp and cup due to the climate chance from Wisconsin to California. To prevent this, I stack the boards with “stickers” in between each board to allow air circulation around each board. Then weigh it down with a scrap piece of Baltic Birch plywood and bricks. It is common to let them sit for a few days to let them acclimate to the climate in my shop. Another thing you can do is lean the boards against a wall to allow air circulation around the boards. The last thing you want to do is unwrap the boards and leave them laying flat on a bench. That will guarantee the boards will warp!
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It looks great Edward!
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It came out great Les, frame included!
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Using Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse blades on my DeWALT, I can achieve the same thing. Since the reverse teeth on the FD UR blades are every third tooth, I can adjust the blade to sit high in the blade clamps. Then when dull, I can move the blade lower into the clamps. Works fo me. This also works with skip tooth and all other blades except regular reverse tooth blades.
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Great self portrait Brenda!
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Well, it must be an Orange County thing. Up here in the Home Depot in Simi Valley, Ventura Co. they have pallets full of gallon size Mineral Spirits. Try a paint store or Ace or True Value. @Karl S I would never talk bad about your state!
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So, did you check the switch like I mentioned?
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Les, I have cut several compound cut projects lately, all in 1 1/2” Mahogany. The blades that worked for me were Flying Dutchman Polar #7 and Flying Dutchman UR #7. Both worked equally well. I saw on a DeWALT at a relatively fast speed. Even on the DeWALT, it’s slow cutting.
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Like Kepy mentioned above, it probably the switch. Dust gets into it and gums up the contacts. As a scroll saw instructor at the local Woodcraft store, I have repaired many a DeWALT switch. If you are handy it’s doable. The first thing you want to do is remove the cover that holds the speed control and switch. Unplug the machine. With needle nose pliers remove the two wires that connect to the switch. Again, make sure the machine is unplugged. Tape together the two wires, then plug the machine back in. If it comes on, the problem is in the switch. If not, then it’s time to take it in to the repair shop. The switch is is repairable. If you need to, I’ll walk you through it. Let me know.
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I use Forstner bits also. I have one for all the popular insert sizes. I even have a 1 3/8” carbide tipped bit for the small inserts. It’s easy to sharpen!
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Looks great Ray!
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I used an Olson skip tooth 2/0 blade. Flying Dutchman puzzle blades are a skip tooth 3/0. You don’t want to use a reverse tooth blade as the reverse teeth can lift the paper. After mounting the photo to the board I used a veneer roller to make sure the photo was firmly mounted without any air bubbles, so no I didn’t get any lifting of the photo. I like this one old dog teaching another old dog new tricks!
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Ray, I have had that branding iron for a long time. I don’t remember where I ordered it from, but you can order them from any Woodworking place like Woodcraft and Rockler.
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John, my very first jigsaw puzzle is my avatar and was cut freehand without a pattern. I took a scrap piece of 1/4” BB plywood and just started cutting.till I found what works. The picture was from a calendar. I mounted it using 3M 77 spray adhesive on the back of the picture, then mounted it to 1/4” BB plywood. Because it was semi glossy and thicker paper, I did not apply any top coating. Again, this was cut freehand, without any pattern. I don’t do a lot of jigsaw puzzles but they are fun to do!
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I use a Dubby sled. It’s sold by In-Line Industries. I bought it a a Woodworking show many years ago. It has a mitre scale on it for accurate mitre cuts, but I leave it permanently set to 45* for mitre cuts. Most importantly it has an adjustable stop to cut exact length cuts. A homemade jig can work just as well. Les, the red band clamp you show is what I use. I have two of them.
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Looking great Brenda!
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Les, I use Aleen’s tacky glue. First, I set up the band clamp so it just snug with the frame. Then I loosen the band clamp just enough to remove one side. I apply glue to both ends of the piece then put it back in the band clamp. Then, remove the opposite frame piece and apply glue the each end. Then replace it into the band clamp, then tighten the clamp. As you are tightening the clamp, make sure everything is aligned. It should only take a few seconds to apply glue to four ends. Because I make the frame for each project, I’m not worried about making it any particular standard size. The project gets glued into the frame, so I don’t nail the frame together. The four glued corners and the project glued to the frame make it very strong. I make the frame sides wide enough to cut a screw hole slot on the router table to the upper rail. That way I don’t have to use wire and eye screws to mount the picture to the wall. Here is one I just finished up
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Brenda, mineral spirits is a refined version of paint thinner. It is completely clear and has very little odor. Ray, before I checked out Home Depot, I checked Amazon. They carry it with no mention of restrictions to any part of Ca.
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I Finnish all my Scrollsaw work with a 50/50 mixture of mineral spirits and boiled linseed oil to bring out the color and grain of the wood. For a while now, I haven’t been able to find mineral spirits in any hardware store. I was in Home Depot today and found they have it back in stock! I don’t know what the issue was, but it looks like it’s back for good!
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Cool sign Rob! I got the turning bug for a while too Rob, but I came to my senses!
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Jerry, I use mostly FDUR blades. I tried the Pegas MG blades and did not find them any better than FDUR blades. I didn’t feel it was worth changing over to a different brand. I’m sticking with Flying Dutchman Ultra reverse blades. One advantage of the UR blade is the reverse teeth run every third tooth as opposed to the last few teeth on the Pegas blades. You don’t have to work at positioning the blade to take advantage of the reverse teeth.
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I do just as JT, except I use an even cheaper bandclamp. I’ve had them for years so I don’t know what brand they are, but I think they might be a Pony Clamps brand. But the ones JT shows will do the job. As everyone has said, the two most important factors are a perfect 45 degree joint and identical length sides.
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I make my own frames. I don't use glass as I don’t like the looks of it.
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Welcome back Bob, you have been missed!
