dgman
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Everything posted by dgman
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Come on Ray, you know it doesn’t rain here in So. Ca!!
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Great idea Irene! I especially like how you have named “Brenda’s Cog”!
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I guess karma was telling you something!
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Beautiful project, well done!
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Nice looking space Brenda. Soon you will be needing your own “She Shed”!
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Nice job Melanie, I knew you could do it which is why I didn’t offer any advice. It’s like any other scroll saw project. As long as you follow the line, or close to it, you will be fine.
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For most scroll saw projects including gluing broken pieces I use Aleen’s Tacky glue. It does dry clear, but most importantly it is thick so it holds pieces together, in most cases without clamping. For regular woodworking, I always use Titebond II or III.
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I had a feeling this would start showing up soon. The end of the thumb screw will have to be dressed. Lay down a sheet of 220 grit sandpaper. Very carefully sand the tip till it is dull. I have a tip on doing this somewhere here, I’ll see if I can find it. Ok, I don’t know how to create a link on my iPad. Go over to Works in Progress & Tutorials and look for Simple jig for blade slippage. I just bumped it so it should be on top.
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If you are concerned about battery life, then buy an AC light set.
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Believe it or not, l love my DeWALT DW788. The only changes I would make is better quality bearings and a sealed on and off switch. As a top feeder, I love that the top arm swings up and comes down by itself. I love the large cast iron table and the upfront control. The blade clamps are great with a little routine maintenance. The only design change I would make is a larger capacity swing, maybe 24”-26”.
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That’s what I would do. Drill the holes randomly. Use a hot glue gun on the back side to keep the lights from moving around. Should be fairly easy to do!
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Bill has given you most of the reasons for your issue, except one. I have found that to slow a blade speed will cause your problem. Try speeding up the blade speed. I teach my students to start with a medium speed, then adjust from there.
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A heat gun or hairdryer will work. Just heat the end of the hose. Not too much! Then pop it on. Eventually the end segment will crack. Heat the second segment and remove the first, then remount as above.
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Except for the light and takeoff, it looks just like my very first saw which was a Dremel. It uses adapters to use plain end blades and an allen Wrench to mount them. On average, it would take me two minutes to change from one hole to the next. The accessories on this saw are to make a crappy saw more attractive! Unless you have very small hands, you have to remove the dust port cover to access the bottom clamp. In order to mount a fresh blade, you have to remove both clamps and mount them in a recess in the top arm, then mount the blade to the clamps. Then you mount the clamps and blade into the saw. Very time consuming! Unless of course you use pin end blades.
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Hi Brenda. Yes, a bigger size blade is in order. I have cut plenty of compound cutting. The blade that works for me is a FD Polor #5 or #7. The Polor blade is a skip tooth blade. It also has slightly longer teeth to help clear the sawdust. For me, a little more saw speed works better, and I always use my cutting jigs like Scott @NC Scroller showed. In addition to having the blade and table square to each other, it is important to have your wood blank completely square. I agree with using clear packing tape, but don’t wrap it. Apply it smoothly to the pattern then burnish it with a plastic putty knife or a small wooden block. Otherwise sawdust will build up under the tape and obscure the cutting line. I have seen your work and you are progressing very nicely. Don’t give up! I know you can do it!
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This is a neat cut. I finally found the pattern.
dgman replied to OCtoolguy's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I doubt that is a Steve Good Pattern as Steve’s pattern are drawn with a very nice solid outside line with a light grey interior, not solid black. If you don’t know the creator of this pattern, should you be posting it? -
Paul is right. If the pattern is posted without any discription or tag, it won’t be found by the search engine.
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To Prove that I do cut on my saw & don't spend all my time online
dgman replied to meflick's topic in Bragging Rights
Excellent work Melanie. It seems you have become the Secretary of the Village. Thanks for all you do! -
Nice cutting Jim!
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Love that Mahogany Ray, nice job!
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Nice job Ralph!
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Great work Brenda! My way of dealing with folks who want something made for them is saying: “sure, I’ll make you one, I’ll give you a good price”. This tells them it’s going to cost them. Most of the time they back down on the request!
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Hi Thom, welcome to the Village! For a first project, I would call it a 10. As has been advised, practice on scrap wood first. You need to feel out different blade sizes and types and woods. My advice to you would be to spend a few days trying out different techniques, learning how the blade cuts and how to make sharp turns and such. This will be a very nice first project after you get familiar with the saw and blades. And don’t hesitate to come on and ask questions! Good luck!
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Ray, I’m not going to recommend any brands, bit the rule of thumb is to use an accelerator of the same brand. The accelerator is jut that, it instantly sets up the CA glue. If you are looking for a two part adhesive, you want an epoxy. Not the same thing. When glueing with CA, apply the glue, assemble your work, then spray the accelerator. It should set up instantly. As far as keeping the glue from setting up in the bottle, I buy the smallest bottle available. One trick that has worked is to tap the bottom of the bottle on the bench to force the glue back into the bottle. Also, never touch the tip onto the workpiece. Wipe off any glue on the spout. But most importantly, keep the CA bottle away from the area while spraying the accelerator so it does not get near the bottle tip.
