dgman
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Everything posted by dgman
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Cut twelve of Steve Goods’s mini Natives. I always use hardwoods instead of Baltic birch plywood. All cut from scrap wood. I used Mahogany for the body and roof, Walnut for the base, Maple for the figures and a mystery wood for the palm tree. Based on the grain, it must be an oak, but it does have a greenish tint to it. All woods are 1/8”. Stack cut four at a time using Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse #1 blades. I decided to turn them into ornaments.
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Well Ron, you certainly have not lost your touch, great cutting!
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Nice work Danny! Yup, I just cut four of the mini natives. I’ll post them after I apply the finish.
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Hey Ray, I'm so sorry for your loss. Unfortunately, I do know how you feel. I lost my only daughter about five years ago. I have never mentioned it here, until now. I know how hard it is to talk about it. You never get over losing a child, but it does get easier as time goes by. Thanks for letting us know.
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Try reading the directions?
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Good thinking Les! I keep a magnet on both sides of my drill press head to Hold my chuck key.
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It looks like you Charlie!
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I have a container full of toothpicks I keep on my bench. I use them for applying glue, cleaning up squeeze out and repairing broken parts. 75% of the time, the repair is unnoticeable.
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The blade drift will occur on most blades except the Pegas MG blade and Olson PG blades. It’s the first thing I teach my students, how to compensate for the drift. It’s something most of us learn on our own, and soon becomes second nature to compensate for. i tried the Pegas MG blades. I didn’t find them any better then the Flying Dutchman UR blade and didn’t see any reason to change over. In fact I just placed an order for more FD blades. If you order direct from Mikes Workshop site online, you get free shipping. If you order from Wooden Teddy bear, even online, you pay for shipping.
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I have a branding iron that says HANDCRAFTED BY DAN GALLO. You can order them from any woodworking store. I don’t date them because sometimes items don’t sell the the same year I make them. I always brand on the back side or bottom of the item if there is room. My feeling of signing the front of an item should only be done if you created the pattern. I am not a pattern designer so I would never sign on the front.
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Nice Job Rick!
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Looks great Les! Your frames are coming out nicely too!
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Excalibur Bearings = Junk Saw? ( Update It Runs Again )
dgman replied to kmmcrafts's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Randy, which model Delta is it? If it’s the older model, that part will for sure interchange. If it’s the current model, I don’t know if it will or not. I just junked a DeWALT saw. If you want to try it, I’ll send it to you. But understand that the bearings need to be replaced. Send me a PM IF SO. -
Great looking puzzles! When cutting tray puzzles, it’s best to use a thicker blade like a #5 or 7. It is important to make sure your table is square to the blade and make sure you don’t apply lateral pressure to the blade when cutting curves as this will make a slight bevel on the pice and make it hard to slip together.
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Yes to both! You can find jigsaw puzzle patterns online if you want. When I decided to cut some jigsaw puzzles, I cut them freehand. I practiced on a blank piece of 1/4” baltic birch plywood till I got the hang of it. In fact, my avatar is my first cut puzzle. The picture came from a calendar. I used 3M 77 spray adhesive on the back of the picture then applied it to the plywood. After dry, I just started cutting making sure every piece interlocked with each other.
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Just an FYI, I use Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse blades almost exclusively. With over twenty years experience scrolling, I cannot control the UR 2/0 blade. I have tried everything I can think of, but no luck controlling them. So when I need a 2/0 blade I use Olson 2/0 blades.
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See my reply in the post you made in the Bragging Rights forum.
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First off, for future posts, this should of been posted in the General Scrolling forum. Now for your question. As a Scroll Saw instructor, I start my students off on 3/4 pine. It’s inexpensive and easy to cut. Some folks will say that the blade will wont to follow the grain, but with the blades you have chosen, you will not have that problem. Start with drawing and cutting straight lines, then gentle curves, then tighter curves. Once you have gotten the feel of cutting and how the blades track, you can move on to Hardwoods and Baltic birch plywoods.
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Hey Dusty, welcome to the Village! I’m Dan from So. California, not too far from you. You have come to the right place. Lots of folks willing to help, just ask!
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Hey Danny, what is your SILVER BULLET?
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Ornaments! Christmas ornaments, mini bird houses, Christmas ornament sets like the 12 days of Christmas. I make all my ornaments from 3/16” Hardwoods like Walnut, Cherry, Maple, Mahogany, Yellowheart and Purpleheart. I have Two 3’ artificial Christmas trees set up to display two different sizes of ornaments. That draws the customers to my booth, then they look at all the other goodies I have.
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Looks great Marg! Does it get tense in the house when they play each other?
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Excellent cutting Brenda! I do remember when you first came on here. You have come a long way since then!
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Beautiful work Jim!
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My answer still applies.
