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dgman

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Everything posted by dgman

  1. dgman
    Looks good Edward!
  2. dgman
    Bill, they are really easy to cut. You will want to stack cut. I cut four per stack. Fortunately for me, I have a planer so it’s easy to come up with 1/8” material. I used Aleen’s tacky glue instead of CA glue. The tacky glue sets up real fast and you don’t need to clamp. I built a little glue up jig tp align the roof pieces to the back.
  3. dgman
    Nice work Edward!
  4. dgman
    Great work Dan. It’s too nice for outdoor use!
  5. dgman
    Hickory is an extremely hard wood. What blade are you using? If you are using a reverse tooth blade, I would change to a skip tooth blade. Also try experimenting with different size blades.
  6. dgman
    Because I used to do a lot of demos and teaching, I made a presentable blade holder rack. Made from Three layers of 1” Mahogany. I even decorated the back side. The tubes I get from Sloan’s Woodshop.
  7. dgman
    Looks good Dan!
  8. dgman
    Cut twelve of Steve Goods’s mini Natives. I always use hardwoods instead of Baltic birch plywood. All cut from scrap wood. I used Mahogany for the body and roof, Walnut for the base, Maple for the figures and a mystery wood for the palm tree. Based on the grain, it must be an oak, but it does have a greenish tint to it. All woods are 1/8”. Stack cut four at a time using Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse #1 blades. I decided to turn them into ornaments.
  9. dgman
    Well Ron, you certainly have not lost your touch, great cutting!
  10. dgman
    Nice work Danny! Yup, I just cut four of the mini natives. I’ll post them after I apply the finish.
  11. dgman
    Hey Ray, I'm so sorry for your loss. Unfortunately, I do know how you feel. I lost my only daughter about five years ago. I have never mentioned it here, until now. I know how hard it is to talk about it. You never get over losing a child, but it does get easier as time goes by. Thanks for letting us know.
  12. dgman
    Try reading the directions?
  13. dgman
    Good thinking Les! I keep a magnet on both sides of my drill press head to Hold my chuck key.
  14. dgman

    Guess who

    dgman replied to Charlie E's topic in Bragging Rights

    It looks like you Charlie!
  15. dgman
    I have a container full of toothpicks I keep on my bench. I use them for applying glue, cleaning up squeeze out and repairing broken parts. 75% of the time, the repair is unnoticeable.
  16. dgman
    The blade drift will occur on most blades except the Pegas MG blade and Olson PG blades. It’s the first thing I teach my students, how to compensate for the drift. It’s something most of us learn on our own, and soon becomes second nature to compensate for. i tried the Pegas MG blades. I didn’t find them any better then the Flying Dutchman UR blade and didn’t see any reason to change over. In fact I just placed an order for more FD blades. If you order direct from Mikes Workshop site online, you get free shipping. If you order from Wooden Teddy bear, even online, you pay for shipping.
  17. dgman
    I have a branding iron that says HANDCRAFTED BY DAN GALLO. You can order them from any woodworking store. I don’t date them because sometimes items don’t sell the the same year I make them. I always brand on the back side or bottom of the item if there is room. My feeling of signing the front of an item should only be done if you created the pattern. I am not a pattern designer so I would never sign on the front.
  18. dgman
    Nice Job Rick!
  19. dgman
    Looks great Les! Your frames are coming out nicely too!
  20. dgman
    Randy, which model Delta is it? If it’s the older model, that part will for sure interchange. If it’s the current model, I don’t know if it will or not. I just junked a DeWALT saw. If you want to try it, I’ll send it to you. But understand that the bearings need to be replaced. Send me a PM IF SO.
  21. dgman
    Great looking puzzles! When cutting tray puzzles, it’s best to use a thicker blade like a #5 or 7. It is important to make sure your table is square to the blade and make sure you don’t apply lateral pressure to the blade when cutting curves as this will make a slight bevel on the pice and make it hard to slip together.
  22. dgman
    Yes to both! You can find jigsaw puzzle patterns online if you want. When I decided to cut some jigsaw puzzles, I cut them freehand. I practiced on a blank piece of 1/4” baltic birch plywood till I got the hang of it. In fact, my avatar is my first cut puzzle. The picture came from a calendar. I used 3M 77 spray adhesive on the back of the picture then applied it to the plywood. After dry, I just started cutting making sure every piece interlocked with each other.
  23. dgman
    Just an FYI, I use Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse blades almost exclusively. With over twenty years experience scrolling, I cannot control the UR 2/0 blade. I have tried everything I can think of, but no luck controlling them. So when I need a 2/0 blade I use Olson 2/0 blades.
  24. dgman
    See my reply in the post you made in the Bragging Rights forum.
  25. dgman
    First off, for future posts, this should of been posted in the General Scrolling forum. Now for your question. As a Scroll Saw instructor, I start my students off on 3/4 pine. It’s inexpensive and easy to cut. Some folks will say that the blade will wont to follow the grain, but with the blades you have chosen, you will not have that problem. Start with drawing and cutting straight lines, then gentle curves, then tighter curves. Once you have gotten the feel of cutting and how the blades track, you can move on to Hardwoods and Baltic birch plywoods.
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