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dgman

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Everything posted by dgman

  1. dgman
    What kind of wood is it? Is it kiln dried? To what grit did you sand it to? What kind of finish did you use? These are thing we need to know before we can help.
  2. dgman
    1-1/2" wood will tax any saw. The reason the skip tooth blade cut better is it does not have reverse teeth. Pegas MG blades ar a reverse tooth blade. The reverse teeth don't allow the sawdust to clear the kerf as well hence, the slow cutting. I use Flying Dutchman Polar blades in 3, 5 and 7 for compound cutting. They have a slight set to the teeth. This make a slightly wider kerf to help displace the sawdust. Even with the right blade, it will still be slow cutting, but can be done. I routinely use hardwoods for compound cutting such as Walnut, Cherry, Maple, Mahogany and more. I've even cut Yelloheart and Purpleheart with the Polar blade.
  3. dgman
    First of all, if you are going to use plywood, use a high quality plywood like Baltic birch. As far as scrollsaw sanders, I have never used them. If I need to correct something, I go back and clean it up with the blade. if I bend a blade, it's trash. It gets tossed!
  4. dgman
    Brian, stop being a crumudegon and enjoy them! You can go to your profile page for an explaination of them. Or, just ignore them!
  5. dgman
    I have a few things hanging on walls. Tons of things given as gifts over the years. Anymore, everything I make is put up for sale in the two shows I do at the end of the year.
  6. dgman
    Cool work Todd!
  7. dgman
    I think it is great to have a rep from the manufactures of the tools we use on the forum. Right here, on this forum is the pulse of the scroll saw Community. From begginers to professionals and in between, we can all learn from each other if we are willing to listen to each other. PeterK, you are welcome here. If you are willing to listen to us, yours will become a superior product!
  8. dgman
    We go way back, don't we Marg?
  9. dgman
    Nice looking piece Dave, great work!
  10. dgman
    Hi, my name is Dan and I am a top Feeder........ Oh wait, that is a different topic. Call me Dan. Don't call me Danny or Daniel. Not that there is anything wrong with those names, I just don't answer to them.
  11. dgman
    3 In One is a brand name of a light machine oil. If it says "3 In One", it's what you need.
  12. dgman
    The younger generations wouldn't understand the second one! Very nice cutting!
  13. dgman
    Yes you are a bottom feeder! All sixteen inch saws (except the EX saws) are bottom feeders. The DeWalt saw, EX type saws and current Delta saw as well as Buston Hawks have a lifting top arm to facilitate top feeding. However, you can still bottom feed if you want on these saws. I started on a Dremel 16" saw. On average, it would take two minitues to chance from one hole to the next. Now, as a top feeder, I can change from hole to hole in about 10 to 20 seconds! The benefit of top feeding is you don't have to lift the board up off the table to feed the blade. Instead, you release the lower clamp, raise the top arm then lower the top arm while lining up the blade to the hole then lower the top arm then reattach the blade to the lower clamp then tension. It's far more easier then it sounds. It does take some time to get to used to it but once you get the hang of it, you will never go back to bottom feeding!
  14. dgman
    I still use the old Imperial measurements. I'm too old to change. As far as frames, I make my own to fit the project rather than trying to size the project to a frame.
  15. dgman
    The saw may be worth about $250. The table looks a little rusty. I don't know anything about the spindle sander.
  16. dgman
    Ray, we had this question a couple of weeks ago, so you might go back and look for it. I have both. I have a very nice Makita Palm sander. It comes with plastic punch to punch holes in the paper for dust collection. It works great, but I never use it! I have two old Porter Cable 333 random orbital sanders. One is a spare for when my primary ROS dies as they are no longer available. I keep it permanently hooked up to my Shop Vac with a Dust Deputy in between. I sand all my blanks with the ROS before I cut up to 220 grit. Then, when finished cutting, I'll touch up the fuzzies with a piece of 220 sand paper. In most cases, I don't have to re-sand after cutting. The palm sander sits in its nice form fitted plastic case on a shelf collection dust! BTW, I didn't buy the Makita, I won it when I used to belong to the local Woodworking club. I also won the spare Poter Cable 333!
  17. dgman
    Great looking projects Jim! Could the round one be Alder?
  18. dgman
    The most important factor is knowing why the wood warps. As mentioned above wood moves with uneven moisture absorption. You set a thin board flat on your workbench, it most certainly will warp or cup because the top will absorb moisture and the bottom won't. If you plane the wood yourself, you need to take off the same amount off each side, or the wood will warp. When you get your nice wood in the mail, let it sit in the package for a few days. Then unwrap your wood and stack with "stickers" in between each layer to allow even air circulation around all the boards. Or you can lean the boards up against a wall at an angle for even air circulation.
  19. dgman
    I do not use poly either. I use spray can semi gloss lacquer. Depending on humidity, I can get two or three light coats in about an hour. I don't sand between coats as the wet lacquer will adhere to the previous coat. Once dry, if there are any dust nibs, I rub them out with a flat piece of brown paper bag. It's like using 5000 grit sand paper without scratching the finsh.
  20. dgman
    All of the hardwoods you mentioned are good for scrolling. Each have there own characteristics that may or may not bother you. I absolutely love Mahogany. It is my favorite hard wood to work with. It cuts and finishes beautifully. Alder is a nice wood to work with. It is a little softer, so it may be a little fragile for very fine fret work, but I use it a lot. I also use a lot of red oak. It finish nicely, but is harder than the other woods, and can burn if you are nor carful. I am no a big fan of Poplar as it does not finish well for me. I do not use stains or paint (except for backer boards). To bring out the natural color and grain of hardwoods, I use a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. So I only use hardwoods. dont be afraid to experiment with hardwoods. You do have to be a little bit moe careful with hardwoods than plywood as small cuts can break easier, but it is well worth using!
  21. dgman
    If you you shop around and compare what is available, you will find that they are all the same machine with different Manufacture labels. There are two sizes available. 1x30" and 1x42". They both have discs sanders attached. Mine is a Reliant, which is no longer available, but I have had it fo almost 20 years! I always hook up my dust collector when using it so the berings stay clean. I removed the platen or backing plate, it makes for easier sanding. I always bring my 1" sander when I teach at Woodcraft. It's great for touching up those wavy edges on begginers project edges. One thing I don't like about mine and the new models is the tiny tables. You have to be very careful to keep the work piece flat against the small table. If I had to replace mine, I probably would buy a Ricon 1x30.
  22. dgman

    Latest cuttings

    dgman replied to Rob's topic in Bragging Rights

    Beautiful work as always Rob! Where does the hearts pattern come from?
  23. dgman
    Cool job Marg!
  24. dgman
    Great work Jim, they all look great!
  25. dgman
    No Kevin is not the same thing. Depending on the brand and formula, Danish oils contain oils and varnishes. It is also very expensive. You can buy a quart of boiled linseed oil and a quart of mineral spirits for about the same price of Danish oil, and you get two quarts of mix.
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