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dgman

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Everything posted by dgman

  1. I do not use poly either. I use spray can semi gloss lacquer. Depending on humidity, I can get two or three light coats in about an hour. I don't sand between coats as the wet lacquer will adhere to the previous coat. Once dry, if there are any dust nibs, I rub them out with a flat piece of brown paper bag. It's like using 5000 grit sand paper without scratching the finsh.
  2. All of the hardwoods you mentioned are good for scrolling. Each have there own characteristics that may or may not bother you. I absolutely love Mahogany. It is my favorite hard wood to work with. It cuts and finishes beautifully. Alder is a nice wood to work with. It is a little softer, so it may be a little fragile for very fine fret work, but I use it a lot. I also use a lot of red oak. It finish nicely, but is harder than the other woods, and can burn if you are nor carful. I am no a big fan of Poplar as it does not finish well for me. I do not use stains or paint (except for backer boards). To bring out the natural color and grain of hardwoods, I use a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. So I only use hardwoods. dont be afraid to experiment with hardwoods. You do have to be a little bit moe careful with hardwoods than plywood as small cuts can break easier, but it is well worth using!
  3. If you you shop around and compare what is available, you will find that they are all the same machine with different Manufacture labels. There are two sizes available. 1x30" and 1x42". They both have discs sanders attached. Mine is a Reliant, which is no longer available, but I have had it fo almost 20 years! I always hook up my dust collector when using it so the berings stay clean. I removed the platen or backing plate, it makes for easier sanding. I always bring my 1" sander when I teach at Woodcraft. It's great for touching up those wavy edges on begginers project edges. One thing I don't like about mine and the new models is the tiny tables. You have to be very careful to keep the work piece flat against the small table. If I had to replace mine, I probably would buy a Ricon 1x30.
  4. Beautiful work as always Rob! Where does the hearts pattern come from?
  5. Cool job Marg!
  6. Great work Jim, they all look great!
  7. No Kevin is not the same thing. Depending on the brand and formula, Danish oils contain oils and varnishes. It is also very expensive. You can buy a quart of boiled linseed oil and a quart of mineral spirits for about the same price of Danish oil, and you get two quarts of mix.
  8. I have and use both. I would not substitute one for the other. I do use the 1" belt sander more often, but I would not be without either. I also have a 4x48 stationary belt sander with a 9" disk sander and two random orbital sanders, various sanding blocks and mini sanding tools. I do have a handheld belt sander that never gets used.
  9. I use the same method for everything I cut, even oak. I use a 50/50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. The oil brings out the natural color and grain of the wood, and the mineral spirits thins the oil allowing the oil to easily flow around the project, but most importantly, it helps the oil dry faster. After soaking for a minute or two, I wipe off the oil with blue shop paper towels, then let dry on a cookie rack. It will not bleed if you wipe the oil off fully. If the project has a backer, I will use compressed air to blow the oil out of the frets. The project will be dry enough to to top coat in 24 hours. I use Deft semi gloss spray lacquer. It's not as fast as easy as your method, but it has worked for me for many years.
  10. Looks like you eat a lot of take out Chinese!
  11. Very nice Rob. Love that Rimu!
  12. I have a nice Makita finish sander. It never gets used. I have two Porter Cable 333 random orbital sanders. They aren't made anymore but have lasted for in fact one is a spare for when the first one dies. All my projects get sanded by one. I have the sander permanently hooked up to a Shop Vac with a Dust Deputy in between.
  13. I always sand my blanks to finish grit before cutting, usually to 220 grit. Then after cutting, I'll use the same grit to touch up the fuzzies. I don't always start at 80 grit though. If the blank was fresh of the planer, I'll just use 220. It's all determined by how rough the blank was before I started. If after cutting I think it needs more sanding I will, but I never go above 220, unless it's BB which I sand to 320.
  14. Yup, too high. That is a type I meaning it's about twenty years old. It WILL need new berings at the very least. If it was $100, I'd say go it, but not at $399.
  15. Yup, I don't use the spacers and stableizers. Just the mandrel and sandpaper strips.
  16. You don't need all the crap in the starter kits. All you need is the mandrel and the refill strips.
  17. Don't worry about the size of hole, use a thicker block.
  18. You can do anything you want as long as you do not sell the pattern or project. You can even post a picture of the finished project here but not the pattern.
  19. That's an old 16" saw. Parts will be difficult to find as Delta no longer supports this saw. I would not buy online. You need to see it in person and try it out.
  20. Looks good Rob! I always sell out when I cut them.
  21. Oh I see, I guess you didn't read my reply on my recommending the the Lifetime brand tables available at Costco.
  22. I guess I misunderstood your question..."Costco?".
  23. Costco is a large membership store like SAMs Club, only bigger and better. I'm sure there is a store in Orange Co.
  24. You mean the Eagles won the Super Bowl? Just kidding Edward . It looks great!
  25. I like the Lifetime tables. They are available at Costco and staples and other stores. I bought a cheap folding table at Target one year that started falling apart as soon as I used it the first time. The Lifetime tables have gone through three seasons without any problems.
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