tomsteve
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Everything posted by tomsteve
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2 products that are superior to oil based exterior finishes: 1- general finish 450 2- sherwin williams A100 non tinted. this is an exterior house paint base. non tinted, it dries clear. house paints hold up for years and years. oil based need maintenance in a couple of years.
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whebn i have pieces break off, i wait until im done with the project then use CA glue to fix. quick strong bond.
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Looking for opinions on table saw - See update above
tomsteve replied to ben2008's topic in General Scroll Sawing
imo, i think looking into getting the jet fixed should be an option. i dont see how you will get the power and /or capacity of the jet on any fold up jobsite saw. -
i was asked if i could cut these. no problem buuut i dont know if there is a pattern out there. i know these are metal and laser cut. not sure of there is some site that has metal laser patterns or??? and assistance is greatly appreciated.
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'77 to be exact. i did quite an extensive body resto on it. pretty much all metal from the body line on door down around the entire car was replaced. no aftermarket body parts for these(can you believe that!!!!) and used parts are scarce. shaping them rear corners below the tail lights- i think i have an idea what its like to make motorcycle gas tanks from scratch! owner dropped a 302 in it and did some suspension work after. i got to drive it once. it was a pretty fun ride. ill have to see if i can fond pics of it. it came out pretty nice
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and addictive!
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ben- i acquired that slab very similar to how you did. an acquaintence asked me to build a few things for his screenprinting business. when i dropped them off at his house he showed me the slab in his garage. the slab sat in the office of a machine shop he worked in and the boss was going the throw it away. the slab was 4/4 RS,26" wide, and 7 feet long. he took it home with him where it sat in his garage for 10 years- until the night i dropped off those things for his screenprinting business. THEN it sat in my shop for a year or so. i was rather afraid to cut into it- its mahogany and mistakes like i can make are NOT good!
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the plans were good and it wasnt difficult to build at all. the legs and cross braces were very easy to cut on the scrollsaw.
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ok- now for a true suggestion.: i built this table from a slab of mahogany given to me. it was a fun project. https://cherrytreetoys.com/tiffany-occasional-table-plan/
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what you could make with it is a donation to the TOM foundation- a non profit organization helping people in my shop named Tom further their woodworking skills.
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there are a few different species in the mahogany family.it sure looks like one of them https://www.wood-database.com/wood-finder/?fwp_name=M
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if its exotic lumber i keep it. must be 3" wide and 6"long. anything smaller gets scrapped.native lumber(walnut,cherry,oak,pine,etc) goes to the fire pit. i have a 3 foot long 2 foot wide set of shelves my shorts are stored on. i can get a LOT of scraps on it but i dont allow that to happen any more for a reason: what better excuse to go to a lumber store than i truly do need a piece of lumber.
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truly sorry for your loss,kevin. imo, for your glue up you should use quarter sawn for this. much more stable but im not sure how this would look at a glue up. seems the change of grain over the boards could make it look a little strange. BUT, i wonder if you could get sequenced matched boards and accordian them.
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i picked up a delta 36-441 on clearance in 2007 ish. could have paid $4 for it. salesman had to manually punch in the amount to the register and punched in 4.00 instead of 400.00. still a great deal- $400 for a $550+ saw. its been a workhorse. blade was .0001" out of alignment out of the box. ive done a lot of resawing on it along with everything else. never had a problem resawing any species ive used it for- even 4" wide 3/4" thick purpleheart. i did a clean up and tune up a couple weeks ago. blade is still at .0001" out of align with miter slot. only upgrade ive done is an incra miter gage. think im gonna break down and finally replace the belt soon. even that has held up great. boy kevin- i took a bit surfin for belt drive contractor saws. im surprised i dont see any-not that i didnt look too deep but very sad not to see them any more. edit: took a trip to woodcraft this morning. the contractor sawstop had the motor hanging off the back.
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one thing i have witnessed, and read here, is brand loyalty. delta made great tools at one time yet not all of their tools were the best. same applies today. if i were to purchase a new benchtop planer it would be the dewalt 735 but i wouldnt buy a dewalt sawsall as milwaukee makes a better one,imo. as for the delta TS mentioned- i would stay away from any table saw that is either direct drive or has the motor under the table. belt drive with motor hanging off the back is the way to go. delta has had a bad reputation for service for some time now. although my contractorTS is delta( about a 2005 model) i dont think id purchase anything NEW with delta on it. as for made in the USA power tools-mainly woodworking- northfield tools. theyre still old school but not quite weekend warrior/hobbiest stuff. http://www.northfieldwoodworking.com/ as far as made in the usa tools in general- thats tough. idk if these are all made in the USA or some just assembled in USA https://www.stillmadeinusa.com/tools.html
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good question and dont really know the answer. when i do BLO/MS only it is mainly on ornaments. thinning it seems to allow the blo to soak a bit more into the wood a bit more. doesnt provide more protection.on plywood pieces it tends to darken up the edges a bit giving a bit of depth. adding the MS seems to help it soak in a bit more. thins the blo some. watco might do the same-idk as i havent ever used it. been sayin for years im gonna try it though!LOLOL sooooo- in other words i dont know how it compares. i think adding the shellac gives a bit more protection,though.
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actually no. a couple reasons for that. 1- there isnt much BLO that comes off of the pieces so i hang em up until the next time. 2- i volunteer at an animal rescue that gets a LOT of towels donated and not enough space to store them.
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im not a fan of finishing,too. let me rephrase that: im not a fan of the patience required for finishing. i use the blo/ms on a great majority of my scrollsaw work. what i do is instead of newspaper is use old towels to lay the pieces on after soaking. the towels suck the excess off pretty good.
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that would look pretty nice with the idea ya have. i think id cut a circle out of some 3/4" the size wanted then build up veneer around it. either that or steam bending. theres quite a few videos on steam bending. this article seems to be pretty good on the subject of steam bending https://www.thomasnet.com/articles/process-equipment/how-to-steam-wood/
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if you want to add a backer and cant use something too thick, you could use something like poster board or picture frame matting as a backer.
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thanks for the explaination. yeeeaaahh- i dont think a cnc bit the size necessary would last very long. either that or cutting would be very slow.
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that has to be frustrating. i dont think you can respond to the review but you can send a message to the customer. id be cordial and thank them for the review then explain how to tell the difference between laser cut, cnc cut, and scroll saw cut. now a question on lasers- are they capable of making the real fine vein cuts like we run into with scrollsaw work? as in- is the laser cut a narrow cut the width of a scroll saw blade?
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FD polar and penguin silver blades- any experience?
tomsteve posted a topic in General Scroll Sawing
kicking out some work in the shop yesterday, i went into my drawer-o- blades to refill my holders and noticed i had a dozen of each in #3. dont recall ordering them too!!! my goto blades are the ultra reverse. i havent used these other 2 types before and wondering if id notice a difference in 1- how they cut and 2- how long they last compared to UR blades. at the time im cutting 4 stacks of 1/8" BB ply so kind of thinking how theyd work on that. -
i built a DD into my workbench folling this guys video. for the center section with the dust veins i just ripped 3/4" down to 1" wide instead of all the routing( he coulda used a downdraft table to do all that routing!). it works great,costs less, and doubles as my workbench( not good to work on things with small screws,though). one thing i would do differently is run all of the veins at a diagonal to the dust port
