tomsteve

we had to put my girlfriends dog down a week ago today. Dazzle was a survivor of the thailand dog meat trade and lived at a rescue we both volunteered at. Daz had to have a mast cell tumor removed 17 months ago . my GF took her home for the healing period. she wouldnt let daz go back. my girlfriends nicknames for daz were "puddin butt" and "weirdo." she was such a goofy dog and lived the last 17 months of her life being loved tremendously. the "weirdo" is upside down and off center on purpose because...welp... WEIRDO!! LOLOL i thought a keepsake box of some things of dazzles that are precious to my girlfriend might be nice

this one is a saluki. theyre notoriously skinny.

which kind of matches my sitting dog.

good idea. i believe a brittany spaniel which i dont think resembles my rendition.

thanks for the ideas! ill take a look and see what i can find. i hope i dont have to resort to making a pattern. the stick dogs i make dont resemble the breed too much.

i have a request for this. not even sure if it is an available pattern but thought i would ask and see if anyone here might know if there is a pattern available and if so, where. thanks, all!

i dont know if excibur still makes a 30" model but beings how pegas 30" is advertised for $1400 on the woodcraft website and the taiwanese excaliburs were the better ones, id say for $400 at least take a look at it. take some blades,wood, and take it for a test drive.

i cant say how many years and how many blades i straightened the ends out on before trying to just clamp em up twisted. amazing how much time i wasted straightening the ends

nice piece! finish it and hang it!

low profile full chisel should work on a SS should make short work of the cuts.

for noise reduction ,and better dust collection, you might want to make the piping a larger diameter as far as you can then reduce at the machine. i think i read shop vacs need the flow for cooling the motor,too? also, instead of a 'T" a wye at the junction , plus a pair of 45s to make any 90 degree turns, might help,too.

when i built the dome clock ,documented in the link, i was faced with lumber cost. there was a LOT of 1/4" material needed. idk if you are capable of it, but i bought the lumber in 3/4" thick, ripped in half on the table saw, then planed to thickness. might have been a bit of labor involved but saved me a boatload on materials over buying it all 1/4" thick. as for using ply, aircraft grade ply is very stable. 1/4" is 5 ply. it comes at a cost but its very stable.

this looks like a write up on construction. doesnt look like much wood involved but could be a challenge to make out of wood https://komakesthings.wordpress.com/2020/02/02/craft-cogsworth-beauty-and-the-beast/

i agree. i havent gone through that thread since i posted it. didnt make me feel like doing another one but fun to reminisce.

i built the dome clock a few years ago. i think there was only 1 or 2 pieses i couldnt stack cut- mainly because those ones didnt have duplicate pieces. stack cutting is the way to go. it not only speeds up the process but also helps with consistency of the cuts of the parts.

i did some reading some time ago about selling at craft shows. this is a psychological thing. people tend to stay away from booths with too many different categories of product because it boggles their minds. like going new car shopping at a place that also sells motorcycles, side by sides, boats, snowmobiles..... booths set up with a few different products with different varieties( scrollsaw puzzles, ornaments, portraits) fare better at craft fairs but thats the nature of craft fairs- sell what ya bring. art fairs, otoh, tend to be different. they are typically juried. the operators of the art fairs want vendors that are well organized and dont have many different categories of products.

i second mineral spirits. spray it on, give it a minute to soak, peel pattern off

i have a delta TP305 planer. ive resawed lumber and planed down to 1/8" with an aux. table on the planer. ive achieved great results with a few variables. wood species is one. harder species can have some problems so i need very light passes. quarter sawn seems to finish the easiest/best. rift and plain/flat sawn can have issues. i have to look at the sides of the board and make sure the planer blades are cutting into the grain and not against it. the attached pic might help explain what im referring to. feeding against the grain seems to tear out more on thinner stock. even with quatersawn, i not all pieces have came out good. sometimes i was taking off too much material. sometimes it was just the nature of the piece of wood- internal stresses or minute defects( cracks) that i couldnt see showed up during/after planing. i also dont plane all off of one side. make a pass, flip the piece and make next pass on opposite side. and even if i get a piece of rift/flat sawn to come out good. there have been a few times the wood cupped not long after finished. 1/16" i havent had any success with running through the planer. if you do get a drum sander, id suggest loading it with 60 grit.

about 15 years ago( and not long after taking up scrollsawing), i did a fishing scene plaque for a friend. he loved it. i told him there were mistakes in it, which i knew where they were but didnt point them out. few weeks later i went to his house. he says,"check out that plaque hanging on the wall. i think its pretty friggin amazing but the dude that did it said theres mistakes in it. can you find what he was talkin about?' ill be darn if i could even remember what the mistakes were

give it 10-15 years and he just might have to take a pay cut. unless people want to see an 16-21 year old playing with legos.

thats your speed control knob. i had to replace mine when it did the same. easy repair even for people not mechanicallly incined. if there isnt a vdeo in YT, we can guide you through it

youre first time using a scrollsaw and embarrassing? there aint nothing to be embarrassed about here. i made fancy kindling for quite a while before i got the hang of it . your first piece is great!

utilities for the shop and insurance. you might not have business insurance but you still have homeowners insurance. also, does your travel expenses have % for auto insurance?

i use it to attach backers to portrait work. run a bead around the outer perimeter, on fragile pieces, then a dab here and there. set it on the backer, weight it down, a minute later done.

you might want to look at filtration for the compressor,too. ya want to have clean, dry air running through a spray gun. you will benefit form a regulator at the gun,too. that keeps pressure consistent at the gun resulting in more gooder consistency of sprayed finish from the gun. spray guns are a science in themselves. some atomize great some dont. better to have a fine mist( better atomization) spray out than have a gun that sprays larger droplets. tip size plays a part,too. for the finishes you will be spraying, a 1.3 or 1.4 tip size is a good choice. one thing some people(me) have a tendency to do is buy a cheap gun to see if they like spraying. the problem with that is quite similar to buying a cheap scrollsaw and top of the line one- cheap guns can cause a person(me) to want to throw the gun in the trash and give up. my experience with spray guns started with auto painting. i started with a devilbiss startingline gun. its the bottom of the ladder in quality guns from devilbiss. could never get it to lay down finishes without orange peel and problems. moved up to a devilbiss finishline gun and saw much better results. i finally upgraded to a high quality gun( devilbiss copper tekna) i was in dreamland. spraying finishes for woodworking projects is a dream.