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tomsteve

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Everything posted by tomsteve

  1. that would look pretty nice with the idea ya have. i think id cut a circle out of some 3/4" the size wanted then build up veneer around it. either that or steam bending. theres quite a few videos on steam bending. this article seems to be pretty good on the subject of steam bending https://www.thomasnet.com/articles/process-equipment/how-to-steam-wood/
  2. if you want to add a backer and cant use something too thick, you could use something like poster board or picture frame matting as a backer.
  3. thanks for the explaination. yeeeaaahh- i dont think a cnc bit the size necessary would last very long. either that or cutting would be very slow.
  4. that has to be frustrating. i dont think you can respond to the review but you can send a message to the customer. id be cordial and thank them for the review then explain how to tell the difference between laser cut, cnc cut, and scroll saw cut. now a question on lasers- are they capable of making the real fine vein cuts like we run into with scrollsaw work? as in- is the laser cut a narrow cut the width of a scroll saw blade?
  5. kicking out some work in the shop yesterday, i went into my drawer-o- blades to refill my holders and noticed i had a dozen of each in #3. dont recall ordering them too!!! my goto blades are the ultra reverse. i havent used these other 2 types before and wondering if id notice a difference in 1- how they cut and 2- how long they last compared to UR blades. at the time im cutting 4 stacks of 1/8" BB ply so kind of thinking how theyd work on that.
  6. i built a DD into my workbench folling this guys video. for the center section with the dust veins i just ripped 3/4" down to 1" wide instead of all the routing( he coulda used a downdraft table to do all that routing!). it works great,costs less, and doubles as my workbench( not good to work on things with small screws,though). one thing i would do differently is run all of the veins at a diagonal to the dust port
  7. and a cupholder!
  8. id definately have a rocking chair and side table in front of one of them windows. it would be pretty nice sittin back with a cup of hot chocolate watching it snow. i think id put my assembly table in front of them windows,too.
  9. from wood magazine. i think that issue came out 10-12 years ago. the amount of daylight(and view) is outstanding. i LOVE his router table https://www.woodmagazine.com/ideas/wood-shop-showcase/ultimate-wood-shop-design?mode=step_by_step
  10. the consensus here so far seems to be laser pointer= snake oil advertising. i personally never understood lasers on drill presses. i only dinked with one laser pointer dp at a woodworking show.the laser pointer made a dot. some of the drill bits i use could make 5-10 holes in the dot
  11. ive been using CA for years and never used an accelerator. havent found a need for it- weight the parts for a minute and done. if you want to use the accelerator, just wipe it on one side and apply ca to the other. if its an accelerator that says its flammable,wait 60 seconds before bonding. there are tinmes ive bonded oily woods. in those cases i wiped both sides with denatured alcohol first and allowed to dry. ive read that the accelerator can make the bond weaker. best bet is to test on some scrap
  12. but not larger than the intake on impeller housing. do what Ray suggests and youll be good. and blast gates at each machine. one more thing- long ranger remote rocks for a DC
  13. there was a time it was cheaper than gas around here. used it for a LOT. worked great in the parts washer
  14. the only mistake i see is its not a '69 BOSS 429 mustang. other than that, it looks great and id be happy to receive it!
  15. ive been using bob smith medium ca for years for backers. run a bead around the perimeter on the back of the fretwork, dabs here and there and on fragile parts. set it on the backer. put a piece of ply over it and some weight. done in 2 minutes. if any squeezeout, it dries clear
  16. basswood is used a lot for duck decoy carving. they do some amazing coloring on them. maybe you can check out a decoy carvinbg forum and see what theyre doing for finishing? https://www.waterfowlforum.net/viewforum.php?f=61
  17. thats my candy store site! "i want some of that....and that...that might be good so some of that......."
  18. spirals on portraits. flat on all else. no problems with control switching between them. if a problem with hand control, slowing the saw speed down might help
  19. a touchup gun is the way to go. for spraying what you want to spray, something with a 1.3 tip. you can get a regulator for at the gun,too. its not wise to use the reg on the compressor to regulate the gun. they can spray polys, stains( great when staining large furniture),lacquers..... cleanup isnt bad when ya get the hang of it. i get my copper tekna(not a touchup gun) cleaned up in about 5 minutes. if you want an air brush, iwata eclipse HC/CS. theyre great for beginners and worth the money
  20. ive noticed quite a difference in cut and finish between my HF bits and my freuds. iirc, the quality of the carbide can make a big difference and i dont think HF uses very high quality carbide
  21. lets not get into politics at any time here. bacon,on the other hand- great topic!!
  22. i dont change blades for vein cuts. what i do do,though, is drill the entrance hole along the vein instead of at the end. i feather the edges of the vein at the entrance hole to make it disappear. widens the vein a bit there but i think its looks better than seeing a small hole at the end of a vein.
  23. it happens. i learned the hard way that when i have a power problem with my saw to make sure its plugged in before tearing into the footswitch.
  24. if yer using it for resawing, i think you should purchase this one: https://woodmizer.com/Store/Shop/Resaws-Bandsaws/HR130-Resaw-Bandsaw then move within 30 miles of me. i might even offer free labor.
  25. it was a lot easier than knockin my blade storage off the bench. sorting the spirals and straight baldes was easy. sorting the numbers of them blades? close was good enough. i narrowed it down to ,"thats under a 5 and thats over a 5."
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