tomsteve

something that helps to have clean cuts is a zero clearance insert on the table. i used to make them out of hard maple. they helped prevent chipout. i switched to making aux fence and table from 3/4" ply. when it wears out, i replace it the freud blades are very good. for your saw id recommend the LU73R12. if you want super high quality, look at forrest chopmasters.

typically im scrolling after attaching a pattern to wood. i use spray adhesive for that. im a bit messy with spray glue. my fingers dont slide on the work much.

general finishes 450 or enduro clear. both are exceptional clears that dont darken wood

2 products that are superior to oil based exterior finishes: 1- general finish 450 2- sherwin williams A100 non tinted. this is an exterior house paint base. non tinted, it dries clear. house paints hold up for years and years. oil based need maintenance in a couple of years.

if the cut is a vein- a cut that is the width of the blade or a little more- i put the hole midway ish in the line then feather the edges near the entry hole

thank you,all

this here is chester. 10 months ago he came into the rescue i volunteer at. his human had died and his humans family didnt want him. a few health problems but overall, still some life in him. i attached to him pretty quick and decided i will be his hospice foster. my little guy, pete thedog, liked him and chester liked pete. chester was a remarkable dog. loved other dogs( hed lay at the dog park like a grandpa watchin the grandkids) and kids. actually, he loved everyone he met. just an all around great dog- even when hed be picky about what he wanted to eat. taking care of him caused me to cut back on doing a lot, which i was ok with. he was worth it. chesters health took a turn early last week. he was having even more problems walking and with balance. wednesday morning i took him out to pee. he came in and laid down just inside the doorwall. he never did that. walked to his bed every time. he wouldnt eat dinner. set all kinds of food in front of him and he wouldnt even move. thursday afternoon i carried him into my bedroom to take a nap with me. laying next to me, i knew it was time. he was tired and wore out so i made "the call." we buried him friday in the memorial garden up at the rescue. a perfect spot under a huge pine tree. i hate this part of dogs. RIP my awesome old man.

whebn i have pieces break off, i wait until im done with the project then use CA glue to fix. quick strong bond.

imo, i think looking into getting the jet fixed should be an option. i dont see how you will get the power and /or capacity of the jet on any fold up jobsite saw.

i was asked if i could cut these. no problem buuut i dont know if there is a pattern out there. i know these are metal and laser cut. not sure of there is some site that has metal laser patterns or??? and assistance is greatly appreciated.

'77 to be exact. i did quite an extensive body resto on it. pretty much all metal from the body line on door down around the entire car was replaced. no aftermarket body parts for these(can you believe that!!!!) and used parts are scarce. shaping them rear corners below the tail lights- i think i have an idea what its like to make motorcycle gas tanks from scratch! owner dropped a 302 in it and did some suspension work after. i got to drive it once. it was a pretty fun ride. ill have to see if i can fond pics of it. it came out pretty nice

and addictive!

ben- i acquired that slab very similar to how you did. an acquaintence asked me to build a few things for his screenprinting business. when i dropped them off at his house he showed me the slab in his garage. the slab sat in the office of a machine shop he worked in and the boss was going the throw it away. the slab was 4/4 RS,26" wide, and 7 feet long. he took it home with him where it sat in his garage for 10 years- until the night i dropped off those things for his screenprinting business. THEN it sat in my shop for a year or so. i was rather afraid to cut into it- its mahogany and mistakes like i can make are NOT good!

the plans were good and it wasnt difficult to build at all. the legs and cross braces were very easy to cut on the scrollsaw.

ok- now for a true suggestion.: i built this table from a slab of mahogany given to me. it was a fun project. https://cherrytreetoys.com/tiffany-occasional-table-plan/

what you could make with it is a donation to the TOM foundation- a non profit organization helping people in my shop named Tom further their woodworking skills.

there are a few different species in the mahogany family.it sure looks like one of them https://www.wood-database.com/wood-finder/?fwp_name=M

if its exotic lumber i keep it. must be 3" wide and 6"long. anything smaller gets scrapped.native lumber(walnut,cherry,oak,pine,etc) goes to the fire pit. i have a 3 foot long 2 foot wide set of shelves my shorts are stored on. i can get a LOT of scraps on it but i dont allow that to happen any more for a reason: what better excuse to go to a lumber store than i truly do need a piece of lumber.

thank you!!! i tested a few and got it good before going at it buuuuut determined i cant cut a good enough circle. sooooo, onto plan B

hey all- hope all ya'll are doin good today. i have a project here im certain the technique has been discussed here but cant seem to find the right search terms. i have to cut the center of these sunbursts out as set a sun in them, which the sun will be cut for the osage orange sitting on top in one of the pics. since i can only cut an almost perfect circle, i want to tilt the head on my saw(excalibur), stack, and cut so the sun will drop right in. ive done this before but that was quite a few years ago so i dont remember what angle to set the saw at and if the osage orange sits on top or bottom when cutting. is anyone able to direct me to a write up or video?

truly sorry for your loss,kevin. imo, for your glue up you should use quarter sawn for this. much more stable but im not sure how this would look at a glue up. seems the change of grain over the boards could make it look a little strange. BUT, i wonder if you could get sequenced matched boards and accordian them.

look for an oliver 273-D scrollsaw.

i picked up a delta 36-441 on clearance in 2007 ish. could have paid $4 for it. salesman had to manually punch in the amount to the register and punched in 4.00 instead of 400.00. still a great deal- $400 for a $550+ saw. its been a workhorse. blade was .0001" out of alignment out of the box. ive done a lot of resawing on it along with everything else. never had a problem resawing any species ive used it for- even 4" wide 3/4" thick purpleheart. i did a clean up and tune up a couple weeks ago. blade is still at .0001" out of align with miter slot. only upgrade ive done is an incra miter gage. think im gonna break down and finally replace the belt soon. even that has held up great. boy kevin- i took a bit surfin for belt drive contractor saws. im surprised i dont see any-not that i didnt look too deep but very sad not to see them any more. edit: took a trip to woodcraft this morning. the contractor sawstop had the motor hanging off the back.