tomsteve
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Everything posted by tomsteve
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i have a 1.75 hp in my contractor and havent come across anything that bothered it- even resawing 6 by 6 oak barn beams.
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thats definately qs sycamore. i dont think theres another north american wood that gets the specks/rays like it does.
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a saleman will say the pile of poop he's selling is the best you can get so he gets the commission. not sayin they arent a good saw. ive seen the cabinet saw with all the bells and whistles attached at the local rockler and was quite impressed.
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good on ya for jumping into something new! they are nice for portrait work- i dont have to turn the work a full 360 degrees for each cut. just slide left,right, to and fro. i typically use #3&5's for most work but i enlarge most patterns i cut so the smaller detail cuts are now larger and the 3's work good. occasionally i can have some cuts that i switch to smaller ones to get fine detail. one thing you will find is they cut smoothly but leave a fuzzy edge on the backside of the wood. personally i take a torch real quick across to burn the fuzzies down then sandpaper on a block lightly. just as with straight blades, let the spiral do the work.
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had a type 2 some time ago. it started doing the same,then started running at an extremely high spped- like it had a massive shot of nitrous. my landlord at the time owned an electric shop. asked him to take a look at it. turned out the windings shorted out. however, there could be a problem in the circuit board in yours.
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welp, then ya gotta head further north to the tool haus in gladwin. i loved the tool selection they had there. i believe the saw you refer to at lowes is a direct drive. iffen ya go on the lowes website( or even home depot and menards) they have a greater variety of table saws from a few different manufacturers. if i had to replace my saw today and money wasnt a problem, i think i would go with a powermatic.
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i would love to have the shop and cash to stock my shop with northfield machinery. made in the U.S.A.
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its reading like a contractor saw is what you may be interested in. even if you went cabinet saw you could put it on a mobile base to move it when necessary. i cant give much advise on which brand to lok at as mine is a circa early 2000's delta 36-441 contractor saw. if you could find one new in box id say go for it. but i doubt thats happening as i got mine on clearance about 2006. one thing i would suggest is a belt drive over direct drive. and take a roadtrip to johnsons workbench. it looks like they have quite a showroom and carry jet,rikon,delta, powermatic and SS. unisaws and PM 66's are in lots of shops. which i just canceled out the contractor saw there.
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scammers are funny in a sick way. about 8 or so years ago i picked up an "unavaliable" number. dont know why, but it was a scammer. sat there listening to him, then started MY pitch to extend the warranty on his car for only $39.95/month and that would cover more than factory warranty and rattling all kinds of stuff off. he hung up on me!!!
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ACE is my favorite hardware store. havent been into one that didnt have knowledgeable employees to assist. i was building an aux oiler for a chainsaw mill,needed a compression fitting,and went to lowes first. knew it would be in plumbing but couldnt locate them. plumbing "assistant" hadnt ever heard of one. i walked out. drove to ace, walked in and greeted with an employee asking if the could help me find something. "compression fittings." off we went. told him what i was doing,understood what i was doing, and helped me by suggesting a little change in the plans.
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ironic how lowes picks up craftsman then closes stores.
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EX-21 Question....Speed control...
tomsteve replied to Scrolling Steve's topic in General Scroll Sawing
im wondering if it has something to do with being in a shop that isnt kept at a constant temp all year. i have a few stationary power tools that the power switches failed on. i recall reading something about unheated workplaces that can have drastic temp/humidity changes can cause problems in sensitive switches -
i dont think it will be that hard.time consuming?yes. it will definately be a challenge on a 16" saw, but its doable. im thinking it will be easier enlarged. although its going to be a large piece of wood, enlarging the pattern makes all of them fine, fragile cuts less fine and fragile.
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thats where im complicating it. i want to cut it into something unique, or make something unique. ill prolly just use some cherry plywood. or sumthin else.
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i have the fisrt part of patience licked- im mental!!
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ill drill about 20 or so holes,cut, then drill more. i have one from a few years ago STILL on a shelf. drilled all the holes in areas that werent getting cut out. off to start a fire now.
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which means im at the "complicate it" stage. it measures 30" tall and 22' wide. complicating it has me cutting some wood to get the grain oriented to follow the flow of the feathers wich that= glue ups and more thinkin. first things first,though- think i better get a large auxiliary table for some support on my saw. then keep it simple.
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what type of glue ya using to paste with? ive had success with jb weld. however, it makes it hard to read around the link i pasted.
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go big http://www.woodweb.com/exchanges/machinery/posts/512734.html
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the larger the bandsaw wheels the less stress on the blades. look for 14"
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welp, put em on last night and have about 5 hours of scrolling with them so far. ive read people saying they remove/smooth out vibration in the excaliber but i dont notice that. what i do notice is blade changes are a lot quicker. pretty nice to be able to see into the clamp. the blade clamps seem easier to get to and i dont need the wood knob i added on my old ones. more dust to make on this nice sunny fall day!
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they made it! nice packaging! think i'll just look at em for a bit.
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funny thing about the phone of the shipper:the local post office doesnt answer the phone. i called the 800 number yesterday. after a bit of waiting i get,"you were given the wrong tracking number." sooo, first thing this morning i decide that IF the clamps dont come in the mail today im going to order up from the link kev supplied. shot a message to bear woods about returns, then happened to take a look at my email and wouldnt ya know it- i have an email from usps sayin my package is at the local post office and being delivered today. we shall see!
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something you can do if you want the edges one color and the face another: spray the edges. angle the spray can and go over the entire surface. light coats just enough to cover. typically have to angle many different ways. once edges are done sand the surface a bit,then use a foam roller to to the faces. dont load a lot of paint on the roller- have some scrap ply to roll the loaded roller over a couple times to get excess off. and light pressure on the roller-just enough paint to cover. it gives a pretty nice effect to scrollwork
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im not sure of the lowest operating temp of the dewalt is, but my lowest operating temp is about 40 degrees.
