tomsteve
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Everything posted by tomsteve
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hhhhmmm....welp,kev, i think id suggest a wooden wood. personally i think id use maple- add some contrast
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only you can say whether youre too picky or not. as for the uneven sheen, that could be the finish soaking in to different areas a bit. ive had that happen and just needed a few more coats. when im sanding i dont bother sanding between coats. just spray the next coat when the last coat is tacky. let that dry,sand with 400-600 just enough to denib, then topcoat. one other thing- on something like that i spray with it laying flat. one other thing: satin finishes do wonders. they can hide little defects in the finish. gloss amplifies them.
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absolutely! i have never heard anyone say something like: 'i shoulda built my shop smaller" or "i should have insulated less" or "i should have got a smaller heater" or "i should have bought less lumber" or ......... although an ex girlfriend once said,"do you need all that lumber?" which contributed to the 'ex' part.
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lookin good! and progress is awesome! glad you've kept at it.
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i noticed that when i go above 4 at a time the blades dont seem to last as long- they dull out quicker. could just be me,though trying to be super fast super sawer.
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in my opinion, and from experience with my type 2, changing brands is a good thing here. santa brought me an EX 16 4 years ago. dc induction motor- cant be beat.although i dont think excalibur is the name of the saws any more( i think its king,seyco, and/or some other name), it it well worth the extra money. its been a workhorse. had a problem recently with the VS control and the thumbscrew finally stripped out, but thats a wear part i would expect to wear out eventually. its still been worth the money. some day im gonna use the tilting head and do some compound cutting.
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i have a 1.75 hp in my contractor and havent come across anything that bothered it- even resawing 6 by 6 oak barn beams.
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thats definately qs sycamore. i dont think theres another north american wood that gets the specks/rays like it does.
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a saleman will say the pile of poop he's selling is the best you can get so he gets the commission. not sayin they arent a good saw. ive seen the cabinet saw with all the bells and whistles attached at the local rockler and was quite impressed.
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good on ya for jumping into something new! they are nice for portrait work- i dont have to turn the work a full 360 degrees for each cut. just slide left,right, to and fro. i typically use #3&5's for most work but i enlarge most patterns i cut so the smaller detail cuts are now larger and the 3's work good. occasionally i can have some cuts that i switch to smaller ones to get fine detail. one thing you will find is they cut smoothly but leave a fuzzy edge on the backside of the wood. personally i take a torch real quick across to burn the fuzzies down then sandpaper on a block lightly. just as with straight blades, let the spiral do the work.
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had a type 2 some time ago. it started doing the same,then started running at an extremely high spped- like it had a massive shot of nitrous. my landlord at the time owned an electric shop. asked him to take a look at it. turned out the windings shorted out. however, there could be a problem in the circuit board in yours.
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welp, then ya gotta head further north to the tool haus in gladwin. i loved the tool selection they had there. i believe the saw you refer to at lowes is a direct drive. iffen ya go on the lowes website( or even home depot and menards) they have a greater variety of table saws from a few different manufacturers. if i had to replace my saw today and money wasnt a problem, i think i would go with a powermatic.
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i would love to have the shop and cash to stock my shop with northfield machinery. made in the U.S.A.
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its reading like a contractor saw is what you may be interested in. even if you went cabinet saw you could put it on a mobile base to move it when necessary. i cant give much advise on which brand to lok at as mine is a circa early 2000's delta 36-441 contractor saw. if you could find one new in box id say go for it. but i doubt thats happening as i got mine on clearance about 2006. one thing i would suggest is a belt drive over direct drive. and take a roadtrip to johnsons workbench. it looks like they have quite a showroom and carry jet,rikon,delta, powermatic and SS. unisaws and PM 66's are in lots of shops. which i just canceled out the contractor saw there.
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scammers are funny in a sick way. about 8 or so years ago i picked up an "unavaliable" number. dont know why, but it was a scammer. sat there listening to him, then started MY pitch to extend the warranty on his car for only $39.95/month and that would cover more than factory warranty and rattling all kinds of stuff off. he hung up on me!!!
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ACE is my favorite hardware store. havent been into one that didnt have knowledgeable employees to assist. i was building an aux oiler for a chainsaw mill,needed a compression fitting,and went to lowes first. knew it would be in plumbing but couldnt locate them. plumbing "assistant" hadnt ever heard of one. i walked out. drove to ace, walked in and greeted with an employee asking if the could help me find something. "compression fittings." off we went. told him what i was doing,understood what i was doing, and helped me by suggesting a little change in the plans.
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ironic how lowes picks up craftsman then closes stores.
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EX-21 Question....Speed control...
tomsteve replied to Scrolling Steve's topic in General Scroll Sawing
im wondering if it has something to do with being in a shop that isnt kept at a constant temp all year. i have a few stationary power tools that the power switches failed on. i recall reading something about unheated workplaces that can have drastic temp/humidity changes can cause problems in sensitive switches -
i dont think it will be that hard.time consuming?yes. it will definately be a challenge on a 16" saw, but its doable. im thinking it will be easier enlarged. although its going to be a large piece of wood, enlarging the pattern makes all of them fine, fragile cuts less fine and fragile.
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thats where im complicating it. i want to cut it into something unique, or make something unique. ill prolly just use some cherry plywood. or sumthin else.
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i have the fisrt part of patience licked- im mental!!
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ill drill about 20 or so holes,cut, then drill more. i have one from a few years ago STILL on a shelf. drilled all the holes in areas that werent getting cut out. off to start a fire now.
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which means im at the "complicate it" stage. it measures 30" tall and 22' wide. complicating it has me cutting some wood to get the grain oriented to follow the flow of the feathers wich that= glue ups and more thinkin. first things first,though- think i better get a large auxiliary table for some support on my saw. then keep it simple.
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what type of glue ya using to paste with? ive had success with jb weld. however, it makes it hard to read around the link i pasted.
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go big http://www.woodweb.com/exchanges/machinery/posts/512734.html
