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tomsteve

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Everything posted by tomsteve

  1. tomsteve
    if i could build what i have in my mind, id have this! ive drooled over this for years https://www.woodmagazine.com/ideas/wood-shop-showcase/ultimate-wood-shop-design
  2. tomsteve
    reads like yer wife needs to plan a garage addition for her car. i have an older delta benchtop and no benchspace for it either so its parked under one of my benches. although i dont use it as much as i used to i still dont like having to lug that thing out. im good once its out- i love turning roughsawn lumber into projects. then after, it typically sits on my table saw until i have to use the tablesaw again.
  3. tomsteve
    last of '19: USMC puzzle 1st of '20: my finger.
  4. tomsteve
    that motor would make the torqueist scrollsaw ever!
  5. tomsteve
    the clean part is important. mineral spirits,lacquer thinner, or acetone work great for cleaning the table
  6. tomsteve
    ray, one thing ive noticed with pre stain conditioning is the shade of stain doesnt seem to be as dark. a good thing with oil based stains is that they can be thinned down with mineral spirits to lighten them up,too.
  7. tomsteve
    theres other species that blotch,too. maple,cherry,birch, and alder are prone to it
  8. tomsteve
    bacon with french toast??
  9. tomsteve
    im bald ,old, fat, and like bacon. too little or too much info?
  10. tomsteve
    another one that uses spray adhesive and MS to remove. been doing that for 14 years now and never had a problem with grain lifting.
  11. tomsteve
    what you could do is dip the pieces in stain, let them dry, then sand the stain off the back.
  12. tomsteve
    if im using cedar- or other woods that blotch- and its going to be stained, i spray it with mineral spirits first. allow the MS to soak in then apply the stain. on cedar, if im just applying a clear topcoat, many times i will apply a 50/50 mixture of BLO/MS. allow that to dry then apply the clear. that helps the clear not soak in so and less coats for good coverage
  13. tomsteve
    those pieces are probably pretty short and small diameter? if you want to try it, cut them oversize(like 1" thick slabs),seal the ends, then tuck them away inside your house where they can dry. good idea to have em with some space between each piece(stickered) and off of any surface. check em in a few months to see how theyre doing. it is possible to kiln dry using an oven BUT its necessary to understand how. i didnt know how at first. ended up with some really nice walnut that case hardened BAD along with trapping internal stresses that came out when machining, then turned into high dollar kindling.
  14. tomsteve
    thats the one part ive had to replace on my ex 16. saw just stopped running.
  15. tomsteve
    i tried that top feeding on my EX. i couldnt get the hang of it so went back to being a bottom feeder.
  16. tomsteve
    my ex 16 is 4 years old and the table is scratched up. doesnt affect performance any.
  17. tomsteve
    along with the 5 or 7 blades,ya might have to turn the saw speed up,too
  18. tomsteve
    ill take it. we dont have wildfires, mud slides, or the 405 here in west metro detroit. we have the I696 hundred! and on special dates the I275 hundred where 90 is the new 70 and drafting is the norm.
  19. tomsteve
    might want to try pinching the hose a bit. might need a place to let in a little extra air in the system.might just need to add some bends in the system.
  20. tomsteve
    my blade storage is a 4" wide chink of oak with holes drilled half way through to fit 4 1/2" long pieces of 1/2" cpvc pipe
  21. tomsteve
    wowzer! thats the one thing i dont like about maples- they dont bend much-they just snap
  22. tomsteve
    something that would work good for scroll saws is making the table/bench area they sit on a downdraft table.
  23. tomsteve
    2 3/4"at the motor and 3" at the clamp says the clamp end needs to lower,which would require turning ccw. i get that 1/4" in about a half turn if i even have to turn it that much. what happens if you turn the knob all the way CW? does that knob on the back have a white line on the edge/side of the knob?
  24. tomsteve
    if it was wider at the blade then youd want to turn it CCW to lower the arm.maybe a typo there? the knob should have a white mark on it. however many turns it takes, that white mark should face straight down the upper arm when the arm is parallel with the table.
  25. tomsteve
    ya know the phrase "turn on a dime?" welp, in scrolling to make a 90 we have to turn on a pin head. the blade has to be the pivot point and corner had to stay at that point on the table through the turn. whenever my cut starts going off like that its either because i didnt keep that pivot point or i didnt give the blade enough time to clear out material to start cutting again.
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