tomsteve

P.S. 1 and 6 of the exotics look somewhat like bubinga

thats spraying some mineral spirits on the face to see the color and grain better.

some clearer pictures close up would help some, but on the exotics, but #2 is definatly purpleheart. can ya get some pics of both the face( wetted with MS would be nice) and the end grain of each piece?

very good suggestion. rocking work sucks. i usually run the back across my belt sander real quick to knock em down if they protrude out the back

pretty much the same here as kevin. personally i found a sweet spot at 5- 1/8" thick stacked. when i start stacking more than 3/4" total thickness, i start getting some cuts that arent parallel no matter how careful i am.

welp, ya said ." and have always just inserted the clock un-started.. send the instruction papers etc with a small set of typed instructions on how to remove the clock and start it etc." is there something broke with the process? customer complaints?

personally i use brad nails from my brad nail gun. basically because its quick and holds the pieces firmly together.

yes. if it aint broke, dont fix it.

2 hands, 2 eyes, 2 feet for footswitches....2 times the work out at once.

non copywrighted photos?

now all someone has to do is create a suicide knob for scrollsaws.

great idea there!

one thing i love about the deadman footswitch: in the event im in a fragile area, i get a little crazy feeding too hard, and the workpiece starts to jump, lift my foot and powers off instantly.

other manufacturers of blades do make reverse tooth blades, but i cant say how they compare to FD blades as FD are all ive used. i have read some about the blades that judy gale roberts is selling. it reads like they are a high quality blade and theres a couple different geometries to them https://intarsia.com/collections/scroll-saw-blades/products/gold-blades-dozen?variant=33146093830

awesome!! beings how them drawers were dovetailed, im thinkin something better than pine. i wouldnt be surprised if it was poplar or maple. but then again species could depend on what country it was manufactured in.

i made this! but im also single.

great replies here. something i actually wish i would have done was save some of my very first cuts but i used them for kindling- fancy schmancy kindling. which didnt help start a fire any better. if i would have saved a couple pieces, i could pull them out when i start getting too hard on myself.

some folks call it the poor mans oak. its an awesome wood to work. it can look like red oak when stained, which it stains and finishes real nice. awesome score for sure!

bowersi know ya asked the question on monday and its only thursday, buuuuutttt is it done yet???? ive been thinking a wee bit about this and how wicked it will be.

for most projects,12 by 12 should be good. you may,in the future, decide to enlarge patterns to fit the 12" width with a boarder, which typically make the width wider then 12".what youre purchasing at lowes is veneer graded C-2, which allows for uneven color and natural characteristics. if its what im thinking, it probably doesnt have too many plys,too. what Falcon linked to is a grade B/BB, which will have a face free of defects. whats linked is 1/8" and i do believe a 3 ply with veneers both sides. ive bought and used it and it is a good quality plywood. he also sells a 1/4" plywoodhttps://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-6mm-x-12-x-12-Baltic-Birch-Plywood-for-Laser-CNC-and-Scroll-Saw-23pc-/272247092328 another source is ocooch hardwoods http://ocoochhardwoods.com/plywood.php i crunched the numbers before- comparing ocooch to the ebay listing. with shipping it was just about the same. still, ocooch has very good quality plywood and hardwoods. plus, i can order how many sheets i want- mix and match. also ocooch sells in 12" by 24",too you may be able to find a cabinet shop close to you that might have scraps and maybe even be able to hook you up with a local supplier.

as for sanding edges, once you learn how to control the saw and start cutting better, you wont have to worry about sanding edges. i have a belt/disc sander and oscillating sander( the rigid one). the belt only gets used on faces of work. the disc rarely on a radius i have to clean up. which wasnt the case when i was learning. the disc was used to make large radii way too small and lots of dust.

pretty good start there! a couple things id suggest: 1- stick with one blade size at this time. changing from one to another can make learning more difficult. 2- practice on some scrap. take some scrap, take a pencil and start drawing arcs and lines on it. then go for it on the saw. 3- when cutting, look ahead of the cut- where you want to go. 4- you may want to let off your feed pressure. feeding the work into the blade slower can help with control. if possible, you could also slow down the saw speed to help learn controlling the blade. one last thing: if/when you get frustrated, walk away from the saw for a while.

kevin, the brand i bought at menards was the performax brand. another one that wasnt any good was the lowes gator. both brands sanding discs were like diminishing discs,imo- start at 60 and go to 320 real quick.

ya know, ive actually found the diablo sanding discs and belts at home depot are pretty good. stay away from menards sandpapers/discs/belts. they wear out quickly. for belts- i have found the harbor freight belts arent too shabby and a good price. i think the closest HF to ya is saginaw,though. actually probably closest home dept,too. its been a while since ive been there, but the tool haus in gladwin used to carry something like a house brand sanding disc. they worked real good for me. if ya want to shop online, klingspor https://www.woodworkingshop.com their choices are a wee bit overwhelming, but great prices.

youre going to enjoy the EX,kap. if it doesnt come with one, i highly suggest investing in a footswitch. its much more enjoyable to operate over turing the saw on and off with the switch. as for replacement parts, theres vary little on the EX that wears. i have hundreds of hours on my EX16( the little brother to the 21) and its still running strong with no problems.its a dc induction motor and should last forever,too.