tomsteve

organize blades??? ya cant just put em in a pile and know which ones which by feel???? me neither. one thing i suggest whichever one ya build: if the blade storage isnt mounted down, have some tops on the tubes. i knocked mine over a few years ago, which is very similar to rockytimes. fortunately i only had about a dozen of each of the 10 sizes/styles unwrapped, but it was still unfun sorting them.

bowers, ill be in the shop with the game on the tv and listen to the radio broadcast. i get a little time delay between the 2 so if/when a great play or hit happens, i hear it on the radio before it happens on the tv and that gives me a chance to stop what im doing and pay attention to the game for a bit.

something you can do if the situation arises is take a look at some scroll saw word art and see what looks pleasing. its helped me adjust some patterns now and then.

i think thats 10 years of MLB experience and has to be retired 5 years? THAT is one huge project and im personally excited for you. this could be an awesome experience for you. im thinking it would be wise to take time and figure out how you want it all to display. invision it all on the wall(s). personally i think it would be cool to scroll portraits of each player while in uniform and playing. im thinking of somehow maybe lay out the wall( and if you dont have a large/long enough wall then wrap it around a corner. have the very corner split home plate and second base) like a baseball diamond- maybe like a view from up high behind home plate. then have the portrait of each player at their position. or maybe scroll out their name, number, years played into a plaque and have a picture of each player with it at the position. cept theres some that dont have numbers,like ty cobb. no numbers on uniforms back in the day. im even thinkin how cool it would be to have something for the broadcasters in the HOF. i have some good memories of listening to tigers baseball with ernie harwell calling the game on the radio. so many of those broadcasters have/can make the game live in a persons living room,shop,yard, or even car.

ya knever know,kevin- ya may run into someone named "auston martin" some day.

awesome find! you may find bamboo to cut easy but dull the blades a bit quicker. it can be high in silica, mainly in the outer layers of the stems, but also can have silica throughout.. it can also split or pull out, or tearout, the fibers.it sands real easy plus glueing ,staing and finishing is easy- no blotching or unevenness. cant wait to see finished pieces and what your experience with it is.

change it to rough framing houses,roofing, and siding and ya have me. i cant sit at the scrollsaw for more than an hour or so without getting up and moving. if i do sit longer, i have a very hard time getting up and feel it the rest of the day. ive got that degenerative disc stuff down in the L's. had surgery in the T's. and arthritis upp in the C's. i had to really slow down and think through a lot of processes.

sam heres a good video, and site with lots of awesome info https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/shellac-under-polyurethane/

welp, you could get up to 6" wide resaw if you have a 10" table saw. then do glue ups. i buy a lot of 3/4" thick stock, rip it down the middle, and plane it to 1/4". personally, i prefer glue up when im getting above 6" wide. unless i have quartersawn.

finished properly, even the BB will look very nice. the edges can look like a nice laminated piece.i highly suggest using a pre stain conditioner on the wood. BB has a tendency to blotch. personally what i would do, if using an oil based stain, is take my spray bottle of mineral spirits and spray the pieces down good. wipe off any excess, then stain. the mineral spirits/ pre conditioner helps the stain to soak in evenly and creates a consistant finish. for topcoat, thats wide open. personally what i would do on this piece is use a satin poly in a rattle can. my first objective would be to try and get all the inner cuts with a light coat on them- it shouldnt be hard since the piece will already be stained,so the poly wouldnt soak in greatly. holding the can at a distance, start spraying at different angles- basically mist coats while im attempting to get the finish in the internal cuts. id start at angling the can ( like at a 45 degree or so) to the surface and spray in one direction on all sides. mist coat it, let it dry for a bit. then do the same but now with the can at a different angle and different direction. just think aboout how to get all the surfaces of the interior cuts, yet knowing i may not get them entirely.then after im satified a couple coats on the exterior surfaces. but the easiest, practically fail proof finish would be an oil as JT mentioned. danish oil or linseed oil are both great options.i use BLO a lot myself of ornaments and fretwork with lots of veins. it seems this is a piece that isnt going to get a lot of use/abuse so a durable finish may not be necessary. and with the two finishes i mention, if at any time in the future a repair on the finish may be necessary, its very easy to do. as far as 7" wide 1/4" thick stock, there are online stores that sell it. ocooch hardwoods has varying species of wood that can be purchased at different thicknesses.http://ocoochhardwoods.com/scroll_saw_lumber.php the big box stores in your area may carry 1/4" thick stock of some speicies. im not sure about 7" wide- i see 6" wide(5 1/2 actual) locally, but it is possible to edge glue some pieces up to make it, which is something i prefer to do on some work. one more note: for glueing after staining, you could also use a medium CA glue. i find it works real good and creates a strong bond when clamped properly. hoping we get to see the finished piece as the scrollwork is outstanding!

thank you greatly for this,JT. the ink is big for me- im only going to be making patterns and shipping labels so the majority will be black ink. and after ya mention it, scanning would be a good option- i have hundreds of patterns from past issues of magazine(going back about 12 years) that a scanner would be a great option for. think i might head out and do some window shopping today. thanks all for your experiences!

no need to memorize!:) it might read german to others, but we'll understand.

i think its time for me to break down and get a printer. im rather lost in the area of computer printin machines,though.what id like is something simple and inexpensive that can print patterns. did i mention something simple? im hopin ya'll can give me me some suggestions on brands and all that good stuff.

*@%*!!%#&@ means i screwed up and made fancy kindling.

dick, if youre using an oil based stain, simply spray the surface with mineral spirits, let it sit a bit,wipe off the excess, and stain right after. works great on poplar,pine, and maple,too. most brands of wood conditioners are a thinned down varnish or poly- thinned with mineral spirits. typically 1 part varnish to 2 parts MS.

you can view what he has available here. http://www.woodenteddybearonline.com/x/home.php?cat=100 theyre awesome patterns and nice to be able to get them in an email.

i havent tackled that one, but have done the dome clock and workshop clock. in my opinion, the patterns are very good and explanatory, although i changed them up a bit. that would be a great one to see a "works in progress" thread on!

this is about 5% of what i have stashed. time to clear house! i did manage to get my camera out and figure it out. it takes mucho better pics.

being in florida, it could be cuban mahogany. would be nice to see a piece without the finish.

got a picture of the end grain with no finish? if you slice a thin piece off the end, 1/4" ish, hold it up to a light and can see through it, it is probably red oak.either way, a great score! adding to waynes link, heres a list of the different mahoganies and characteristics: http://www.wood-database.com/#m theres also a section on oaks http://www.wood-database.com/#o

looks good,dan! on holding them birds, im wonderin if something similar to this would help ya https://www.amazon.com/PanaVise-Model-201-Junior-Miniature/dp/B000B61D22

i had problems with the set screw on the left side of the upper clamp loosening up and moving a bit. made it a bugger-bending the end of the blade a wee bit making it difficult to feed the blade. what i did was get a longer one at ace hardware and put a wrap of plumbers tape around the threads. a tedious job in itself( getting a wrap of that tape around suck a small screw), but stopped that set screw from moving.

i forgot to add one thing why i live in michigan

we dont have massive fires or mudslides.droughts dont last long. i can add layers when its cold. i can only strip off so many clothes when its hot before people complain.we can build snowslides for 4 year olds and watch them having a riot in the snow. we can go out and be kids with em.