tomsteve

spray some mineral spirits on one of the scrap pieces before staining and see if that stops the blotchyness.

the hardware is available through CTT https://cherrytreetoys.com/carousel-complete-hardware-kit/ it mentions a lazy susan and pulleys(and springs) so id assume theres a rope/wire system involved in makin the animals go up and down.

another years worth of work and my EX16 is still doing great. no parts replaced to date and a lot more hours on it.

2 years later and my ex16 is still going strong with LOTS of hours on it.

a year later and uncounted hours-well over 200- my ex 16 is still a joy to run.

Welp,mwhat I thought was an ex 21 Santa left me turned out to be an ex16. Didn't really look at the box and it sat there by the tree for a few days until I got to it, but I'm still happy with a 16" one. After burning up a craftsman, then having a 788 type 2's motor go out, then just about burning up another craftsman, it is a huge step up in finely made equipment. So far I've got only about 20 hours on it. Out of the box the only thing I had to do , besides bolting it to my stand, was turn the motor to be the blade to cut more verticle- as in less front to back movement during the stroke. It was simple to do. The table is super solid and the built in dust collection is pretty cool. Also the hole in the table for the blade to go through is nice and small leaving lots of support for fragile cuts, which is a blessing after using a craftsman with a huge hole and plastic throat plate. It's super quiet and almost no vibration. What's there isn't anything to even mention. The rubber pads I made out of a scrap of rubber I had may be helping there, but from what I read even without them there's very little vibration. The warranty... Wow!!! What a warranty and from the reviews of people that do a lot more scrolling than me, well, it doesn't rad like general tools has too much warranty work on these machines. I'm still learning the blade change on it, but it isn't bad. Very well build saw and I look forward to many years of scrolling with it.

im wondering what the look would be if ya turned the back 45 degrees( i think that would be it) to make one of the corners of the back in line with the "12".

How Did You Get Here??? it was a dark and stormy night........

actually 3D, that cut looks pretty good but the trim on the left should slide out/down a skosh. are ya trying to get the frame to fit exactly? when working with frame material such as you have, and with what is going in it, i like to have a bit of room around the perimiter- about an 1/8" or so total. occasionally ive made a frame a skosh too small and cut the work to fit. edit- now that i read other replies what bill wilson said.

john, something you can do if using spray adhesive is put a layer of clear packing tape over the pattern after its attatched for blade lubrication. best to do it BEFORE drilling holes,too. the tape can peel off rather easy and then some MS sprayed on to remove the rest of the pattern. you'll find the methon that works best for you. as far as waiting after staining, i dont wait, but using oil based stains. the MS actually works as a wood conditioner and helps for more even staining- helps stop blotchyness. if oil based paint the same thing. if water based stains/paints, let dry thoroughly.

aaaaahhh yes, the old measure twice cut 10 times situation! heres what id suggest: what wayne said. basically, picture your trim as flatwork.

flatsawn red oak. it can have color variations depending not only on exact species, but also growing conditions from tree to tree. ive had red oak that didnt have any red in it.

you could have two things occurring here. one is the tape pulling on the fibers of the wood as you pull the tape of. solution? i dont know. o personally dont use tape. i put all patterns on with spray adhesive, then mineral spirits to get the pattern off. you may be able to try applying mineral spirits to the pattern and tape and see if it peels off easier. let the MS sit on there for 5 or so minutes. the roughness after painting- im guessing youre using a water based paint, which will raise the grain and cause the roughness. a couple ways to correct it. one being a sealer that Chiloquinruss mentioned beforehand. although you may still need to use it on the cut edges after,too. so maybe the sealer after would be a good idea. you may still need a little sanding after the sealer,though. or switch to oil based paints. heckuva nice project there!

ive done glue ups for puzzles using poplar. sometimes i dont even notice after. sometimes i line it up to have a different grain for the head. poplar is a very versatile wood.it can be stained to mimic cherry and mahogany. its also very stable and good to use for projects that are getting painted. it is used for trim/casework that is going to be painted in many high end homes. the TOM foundation- a non profit organization helping people named "tom" in my shop further their woodworking skills- just so happens to be accpeting donations of poplar at this time.

awesome job!!! my favorite plane,too something wild about the A10: when the gun(GAU 8 Avenger) is removed for service, they have to put a jackstand towards the back or the plane would tailstand. look closely towards the back of the plane in this video and you can see the jackstand

something i can do to clean up and area,and works pretty good for me, it 5" long by about 1/8 ish inch wide strips from a sanding belt clamped in my scrollsaw. 80 grit seems to work best

same here,sam. i dont have the swivel thumb screw but no problem getting the blade to the back of the clamp and locking it in.

thanks for the clip, kevin. gave me some memories of my time workin in a sawmill- quite physical but i enjoyed it a lot.

ove used medium CA with good results. i have some magnetey things i made on my fridge that have been there for 5 or so years

beautiful!! i thought that was purpleheart for a minute. colors for a background.....hhmmm.... im thinking a pale cobalt blue, which probably has a jillion other names to it. or maybe even a line green. or maybe even an orange. something like that i think id take to somewhere like joann fabric or michaels- some place with a plethora of different colored stuff like posterboards and cloth- and do some serious complicating.

aaaand i cant hold a camera straight!

...and debated what to do with them. frames- i complicate them. but decided to try something a little different this time. now im wondering if i should have put them side by side. ive got 2 more waiting for frames, so maybe ill try that with those. or not.

ive had a 16" excaliber( which i believe is either king or excelsior now) for a few years now and love it. i would have loved a 21", but when santa brings it, i dont complain. i can cut some rather large pieces if i plan the cuts out properly- using spirals i have done a portrait measuring 28" tall . not the easiest when getting out near the edges, but it was doable. theres also the seyco 21" to choose from. http://seyco.com/seyco-st-21-scroll-saw-free-shipping/

id show pics of my shot at doing that with spirals, but i cant cut very straight with them either. however, i do use them for portrait work. in this one, there are some cuts that(3 in particular), if laid out in a straight line, are quite long and jagged. using a straight blade, i would have had to swing this piece every which way to complete the cuts. with a sprial, no need to swing it all over- just move the piece left to right,front to back or whatever direction necessary without having to spin it.

i dont see many hawks go up for sale here in metro detroit, but do see dewalts. if i didnt know any better, this type 1 collected dust a whole lot more than it was used- the table doesnt look like it has any wear on it: https://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tls/d/dewalt-scroll-saw-dw788-made/6537064377.html