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Sycamore67

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Everything posted by Sycamore67

  1. Sycamore67
    Has anyone cut the Bunny Pile. It is really cute but it is very fragile. Several of the areas of the ears are quite thin and fragile. I cut one from Aspen which is not very strong and cut in the lines and had ears break. I am recutting it from Red Oak and will redesign a couple areas near some ears.
  2. Sycamore67
    All the suggestions are good.....anything to be safer. You need to keep the board from shooting back and keep it from climbing over the back edge of the blade. I use the Gripper for two reasons. One is that it controls smaller pieces very well. The second is that you can adjust the handle to make it more ergonomic. I have worn out wrist joints which are painful and the Gripper makes things easier.
  3. Sycamore67
    It isn't the Gripper that caught my interest but the comment and idea that it takes too much time to do it safely. People need to take the extra time to do it safely. This thread is a prime example of not taking the time to do it safely. He was extremely fortunate that he was not badly hurt. A few extra seconds can save one from a world of hurt.
  4. Sycamore67
    I am sorry you feel that way but it is all too common. People do not have the time to do it safely. I have and use the Grippper all the time. It takes a few seconds to adjust.
  5. Sycamore67
    The Bears are not too fragile but the Bunny Pile has quite a few weak spots. I just finished cutting the Bunny Pile and cute but fragile.
  6. Sycamore67
    Why skip the veining in the ears....that was a part of the challenge? I did go to a smaller blade to do the ears as it was a tight cut.
  7. Sycamore67
    I use FD Polar blades on thicker woods because they are a skip tooth design and clear the sawdust well. If you want to get better with the scroll saw, it would be good to understand the different type of blades as you will get better and more accurate cuts. Take a look at the teeth on a blade and compare different types of blades.
  8. Sycamore67
    I cut the Bear Pile from 3/4" Poplar with #3 and #5 FD Polar blades. The pattern was resized so that it fit on a 1 x 6. After cutting I used strips of sand paper to sand some of the kerf details so they could be more easily seen. I will finish it by dipping in Danish Oil. I am going to send this to my Grandkids. I bought the pattern for the Rabbit pile and will be cutting it next for them.
  9. Sycamore67
    They make a splitter that goes in the blade insert behind the blade. Micro Jig makes one that is commonly used. I have never heard of problems with a riving knife and cross cuts. You can have problems with non thru cuts. Too many times one hears that safety devices are too much of a pain to use. Everyone makes their own choices. In the above picture, the blade is set very low. This can make it easier to have a piece climb over the back end of the blade and get launched.
  10. Sycamore67
    Does your saw have a riving knife or splitter? For narrow rips, I use a Gripper to control it.
  11. Sycamore67
    I think any political statement should be avoided. You might like a candidate and I might hate them.
  12. Sycamore67
    I think I will give this a try. What thickness and type of wood do you think would be good. I may try 3/4 Poplar, Cherry or Mahogany. Lots of little details in these puzzles.
  13. Sycamore67
    Hope you have a screen on it to prevent losing pieces.
  14. Sycamore67
    I use FD Polar blades on thick wood as the skip tooth design clears the dust better.
  15. Sycamore67
    Of tape or liner is lifting, a couple suggestions that I do. I will lightly sand the BB with 220 or 320 sand paper. Then completely clean the BB off. I sometimes use a tag with just a few drops of water on it.
  16. Sycamore67
    There are several on here who have both top and bottom dust collection. I am not using the Seyco but not certain if it makes a difference. I just made a Tee with PVC fitting. There are all kinds of fittings so you can make it to fit your needs.
  17. Sycamore67
    I could list a entire of list of things that you have on the west coast that you can keep. I will gladly have a bit of snow and cold to avoid them.
  18. Sycamore67
    On sale at only $699.98 !!!!
  19. Sycamore67
    Amazon has a bunch of different air quality monitors. I bought one on eBay which works well but tells me what I already knew. When I use the Dust collection set up on my scroll saw, the numbers go up a bit but not bad. On my table saw, my large dust collector is hooked up to it and does ok but still need to run the air filter. This is the monitor that I bought.
  20. Sycamore67
    Which FD blade did you use? Polar, Reverse, Ultra Reverse?? They all cut differently. I use FD Polar #5 on oak up to 3/4" with no problems . The key with blades is to find one that works for you and your saw and cutting style.
  21. Sycamore67
    I run a propane torpedo heater in my garage at times. Yes,it produces carbon dioxide but not concerned about it. I normally have a carbon monoxide sensor in the garage and have never observed any at all. I would not run such a heater or any heater with a flame in my shop and just use an oil filled radiator style one.
  22. Sycamore67
    I gave up using glue and saw dust due to finishing issues. I use Timbermate to fill wood areas and it takes stain and finished well.
  23. Sycamore67
    I do Intarsia and you must follow lines to get a good fit. In fact, a lot of times I try to stay just one side of the line.
  24. Sycamore67
    I would check the watts of the various guns. They seem to range from 10 watts to 100 watts. I would not want the lower end. It really depends on how you use it. If it is just small dabs then one of the lower power ones is fine. I use it at times to build various jigs and need a higher power one.
  25. Sycamore67
    There is one difference in finishing philosophy that is not mentioned. I am not making things for sale and in no rush. This lets me do things not in a rush and not many pieces to finish. If you are making things to sell, you have constraints on such things as time and cost.
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